DIY with Quantum Boards

2com

Well-Known Member
I just realized something. The HLG120H-54A that I have that came with my original DIY kit, is what they recommend for parallel setups with multiple boards. For series they recommend the HLG120H-C1400. Can I use the 54A driver to run 3 288 boards in series? Or am I stuck with it as a single board/driver kit now since we can't mix boards from different orders to run in parallel?
since we can't mix boards from different orders to run in parallel?
Is there any way to check this? How would someone with a collection of boards (same model and version, different "batch") reconfigure their setups, as they do...right? Like going from a series setup to a parallel setup, or just adding and rearranging layout and/or "fixture" type because they're adding more boards to CV parallel setup - or increased CV driver size and are adding more boards to the same fixture?

...Did some searching while writing this. Found this datasheet link on the 288 V2 board only page: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1538/8585/files/181110__Data_Sheet_HLG_v0.9_PDF.pdf?9552659077964777485
I'm trying to figure out how one could identify the lot number, to match boards in that way. On page 8, Section "6a." it shows the identification stickers with legend, kinda. It just doesn't make sense when I examine a board and try to figure the manufacture date. There's also a 4 digit code on the actual board itself (not a sticker) but I don't know what that's for.

Section "6b." is for the "outer box label", which I thought at first would be the box the individual boards came in, but nope. Must be the box shipped from samsung to hlg. It says the lot number is on that.

So I duno if you'd have to send hlg the manufacture dates from the boards and ask them for lot numbers or what, but I'd like to find out.
@Stephenj37826

Thanks for any help, guys.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
Something like this?

Kinda.. I think. I wasn't very detailed in exactly what I'm looking for, but maybe this will help.
Thanks.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I leave jars open a bit when “ close “ to target Rh ( this morning it hit 70% ) so I keep lid off while I’m up , stirring buds with a bamboo skewer to break up clumps ... I cap jars with hygrometer for a couple of hours after that to monitor Rh that has stabilized while seal .
If it stays ( for example at 66 ) I just store til tomorrow and burp .... close and check.

I start “ curing in steps down from say 72% “ so I get them in range . And have at times dumped jars on paper on table to help step them down for jars.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
How long is your dry period, and when you put'em in jars/containers for "cure" do they have some give and moisture to them still, like a bit "soft"? Just curious.
That sounds like a nice cross.
Look at Hazeman Seeds ( catalog of strains ) one of the better breeders out there. I have a buddy ( icemudgrows ) that does chucking with these strains and has crossed several of their strains like G13 hashplant / Elephant stomper with Black Cherry soda / Bangi haze .
I got lucky and was gifted 79 Xmas bud / Pine Tar kush and am looking forward to seeing what’s up with those. They will be transplanted tomorrow.....

Gotham Limited
Trainwreck / 79 Xmas bud

image.jpg
 
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Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Is there any way to check this? How would someone with a collection of boards (same model and version, different "batch") reconfigure their setups, as they do...right? Like going from a series setup to a parallel setup, or just adding and rearranging layout and/or "fixture" type because they're adding more boards to CV parallel setup - or increased CV driver size and are adding more boards to the same fixture?

...Did some searching while writing this. Found this datasheet link on the 288 V2 board only page: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1538/8585/files/181110__Data_Sheet_HLG_v0.9_PDF.pdf?9552659077964777485
I'm trying to figure out how one could identify the lot number, to match boards in that way. On page 8, Section "6a." it shows the identification stickers with legend, kinda. It just doesn't make sense when I examine a board and try to figure the manufacture date. There's also a 4 digit code on the actual board itself (not a sticker) but I don't know what that's for.

Section "6b." is for the "outer box label", which I thought at first would be the box the individual boards came in, but nope. Must be the box shipped from samsung to hlg. It says the lot number is on that.

So I duno if you'd have to send hlg the manufacture dates from the boards and ask them for lot numbers or what, but I'd like to find out.
@Stephenj37826

Thanks for any help, guys.
The best method is to attach each board to the power supply. Check its vf. Do this without adjusting anything for each board. If they are within .1 volts you'll be really good to go. Also running 3 boards on the 120h in parallel will of course not give more output but rather divide it amongst the boards.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Oh well .... win some lose some :wall::finger:

A very healthy GSG ( girlscout glue ) went full hombre ( male ) .... which under normal circumstances, I would keep for some
pollen as this plant is healthy and structured nice.

1/2 of me wants to stomp it .... other half says give it a little longer to max out nuts and harvest pollen.
More pissed about the good medium I wasted ....

So I guess I will think on this for a few days. Plant has been pulled from tent.

17548048-B7BF-495B-8CD7-1A241CAE79D4.jpegCB4D94FA-CE09-40A4-8B35-B2B8CF7EA820.jpegCD53BE05-5F9C-45A4-80CE-9CCD17B6A213.jpegC14347B7-85B3-40A7-ACF9-E24438BE63D0.jpeg
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
So I scored a free really nice wardrobe cabinet off Craigslist today. It's a little smaller than I was hoping to use for veg but it's nice enough that I want to make it work. Only difference is that it's 24x39" instead of 24x48" but its close enough.

I am thinking if I use 24x36 as my foot print I really only need 80w per shelf to get my 15 sf/w, and it would save me some $ on drivers and be 33% less overall electricity than running 120W per shelf. 2 QB288 per shelf running at 40W each w/o heatsinks.

Since HLG doesn't have a suggested driver for this setup, I checked out the Meanwell spec sheets. Looks like the HLG-80H-C700 would be what I want to run 2 boards in series?
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Hlg 80h 48a would get closer to 40w per board
I would need to run them in parallel then tho right? I already have one qb288 v2 board, I will be buying 3 more of the v1 boards for this project. That's why I wanted to run them in series since we can't mix/match different board versions in parallel.

Are you saying the c700 in series wont pull 40W per board? Seems like it would be able to pull 45W per board if not a little more if my math is correct.
 

The Loafter

Well-Known Member
I would need to run them in parallel then tho right? I already have one qb288 v2 board, I will be buying 3 more of the v1 boards for this project. That's why I wanted to run them in series since we can't mix/match different board versions in parallel.

Are you saying the c700 in series wont pull 40W per board? Seems like it would be able to pull 45W per board if not a little more if my math is correct.
You multiply your volts by your amps. About 50 volts x 0.700 amps = 35 watts. The v1 288 at 700ma is less than 50 volts. Close but not the 40 you want. If you add a third board on that driver it won't work as you will exceed the volt range.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
I see this as splitting hairs, over a few "on paper" watts, that would be nearly immeasurable in a space of that size.
Yeah with the 2 shelves and low hanging height the lower wattage may be enough
Yeah I don't see many other options of how I could pull this off. They don't have a 100W driver in the C series. Was hoping they did and I could just dim it a little.

I guess I could get the HLG-80H-48b for one of the shelves and buy 2 v1 boards to run in parallel.

The other shelf though since i want to use my v2 board, I guess I will need to email HLG and try to get lucky that they have another v2 board that matches my spec so I can use it in parallel...

or I need to just suck it up and buy 4 new V1 boards and 2 of the 80H-48b, and find another use for my v2 board + HLG-120H-54a driver.

I would have the HLG-120H-54a driver sitting unused anyway at this point... hmmm decisions.
 
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