Reoccurring problems every grow WOODY J (UK) to the rescue

[fartoblue]

Well I upped the EC to 1.6 inclusive of my 0.2 background and the PH is still plummeting but the plants look well a seem to be producing more resin and smell. I'm going to take a chance and raise the ec some more. Iv'e tried lowering it and that didn't work so as long as the plants look OK I will go with it.

I know everything points to root rot but they are pearly white and res temps if anything are on the cool side.

 

[myke]

Well I’m trying the same. So I guess we will see.

 

[myke]

Ok so I’m about 2 EC now and my ph has stabilized. I added food yesterday morning so this am my ph was the same. No difference in my plants so I’m going going to keep it there for the rest of the week. I add about 8 litres of top up every morning.

 

[myke]

My ph went up. 0.1. I think we’re on to something here. Ppm stayed the same.

 

[Kingrow1]

It could be many problems but initially the light needs to be futher away or that tacoing wont stop.

The damage i see is simply heat and reducing lights reduces leaf temperature which atm is an easy fix.

I had many issues and most were simply the environment - 600w hps are pretty big lights i struggled to get them very close whatsoever but the spread is pretty good

 

[fartoblue]

Well here's a surprise. I flushed with loads of plain tap water around 300 litres and figured any bennies would be dead as I didn't dechlorinate the tap water. In my wisdom I added some Silver bullet sterilizer. Low and behold I went in today and the PH was stable and EC also stable.

I was convinced a live system with beneficials the way to go but as it isn't working I have ordered some Pool Shock (Calcium Hypochlorite) off ebay and will try sterile again.

Lets face it keeping beneficials alive can be a pain in the ass.

 

[Nizza]

I have done a lot of research on hydro but have little experience
Heres what I have to give for advice
The nutrients are all hydro specific
Are u using town or well water? A reverse osmosis unit cost 250-350 for a nice one and is worth it. You can have bacteria if it's well water so consider a UV add on filter.
The ro unit will take out the chloramines from town water
Water temps are important which you have under control but 55 is way too cold! Anything below 60 is bad ,62-68 is ideal
Light- as kingrow said make sure you aren't stressing them with the lights either. This could also be your roots being too cold and inhibiting growth
Aeration- check out using waterfalls instead of air stones
I may be wrong with some info but check all your parameters and hope u solve your issue man

 

[myke]

Ive always ran with straight tap water,170ppm.Pretty hard water,has lots of Ca and Mg.Temps stay 67~70f.I add a product called enzymes komplete in small doses far below the recommended use.Ive considered the pool shock as its like $5 a pound,would last a life time.Perhaps next run ill give it a try.

 

[fartoblue]

Ive always ran with straight tap water,170ppm.Pretty hard water,has lots of Ca and Mg.Temps stay 67~70f.I add a product called enzymes komplete in small doses far below the recommended use.Ive considered the pool shock as its like $5 a pound,would last a life time.Perhaps next run ill give it a try.

Not sure about adding enzymes to DWC Myke, I think it can cause problems.

 

[Nizza]

Not sure about adding enzymes to DWC Myke, I think it can cause problems.

How about those very low water temps? Your plant cannot metabolize all the light with such cold roots

55 is way too cold. 62-68 is ideal but after increasing temps you will have less dissolved oxygen in your water, possibly causing a new issue. High dissolved oxygen with correct root zone temps will make a huge difference I would start here

 

[Renfro]

You are definitely feeding too low IMO.

 

[myke]

Not sure about adding enzymes to DWC Myke, I think it can cause problems.

I know nothing about enzymes,stuff was sold to me from the grow store.Web site says its good for rdwc??
Where did this 55f water temp come from?

 

[Karlos777]

How about those very low water temps? Your plant cannot metabolize all the light with such cold roots

55 is way too cold. 62-68 is ideal but after increasing temps you will have less dissolved oxygen in your water, possibly causing a new issue. High dissolved oxygen with correct root zone temps will make a huge difference I would start here

I really think this is incorrect my roots fill my bucket bright n white and my dwc temp averages 52-55 degrees. Ive read so many false claims of this being detrimental just wanted to clarify my plants thrive at those temps. And i use tap water this plant is just coming into 4th week flower tommorow.

 

[Nizza]

Plants look nice man but dont take my word for it the plant will produce more if the roots are the correct temperature. It would be so easy to get them to the right temperature too. Look it up yourself why 52-55 is too cold, raising your temp in the reservoir ten degrees could possibly create a new issue if the water isn't oxygenated enough.
Your lucky you can keep it that cold a chiller would cost alot

Not saying its detrimental but your yield will suffer because the plant could be metabolizing faster

 

[Wastei]

To much light/radiant heat. The plants look like they transpire a lot of water, canoeing and curly twisted growth. Raise the lights and look into calculating optimal VPD for your environment.

I think some of the answers are rather sarcastic to be honest.

 

[Kingrow1]

Small chillers seemed quite cheap to me - was the bigger ones that got very exspensive.

Made me think if i ever did hydro id size by chiller cost rather than buy a big ass system then be like wtf at chiller prices

Plants look nice man but dont take my word for it the plant will produce more if the roots are the correct temperature. It would be so easy to get them to the right temperature too. Look it up yourself why 52-55 is too cold, raising your temp in the reservoir ten degrees could possibly create a new issue if the water isn't oxygenated enough.
Your lucky you can keep it that cold a chiller would cost alot

Not saying its detrimental but your yield will suffer because the plant could be metabolizing faster

 

[sandman83]

Small chillers seemed quite cheap to me - was the bigger ones that got very exspensive.

Made me think if i ever did hydro id size by chiller cost rather than buy a big ass system then be like wtf at chiller prices

The ease of changing a single reservoir certainly does have a drawback when it comes to pricing.

 

[Kingrow1]

The ease of changing a single reservoir certainly does have a drawback when it comes to pricing.

I wanted to try full hydro a while back and whilst nothing seemed overly exspensive those big chillers killed my dreams when i looked at the cost for a small setup.

In the end soil always wins me back so im conceeded to that for a very long time now

 

[Dr. Who]

Many thanks for your reply JD
3 x 600w HPS @ aprox 18" from bulb to plant tops, whilst the plants nearest to the lights are the worst affected leaves on the edges of the canopy 3ft away are still having the same problems.
These plants are 6 weeks and 5 days from flip, the very first signs of this started at around 4 weeks the same as it always does. I have another room on a different system and it has just started showing the same symptoms. they are different strains and some (Sherbalato) are affected worse than others some also have Taco leaves but this may be due to hot spots under the Adjusta-wing hoods.

I feed GH 3 part ratio more or less all 3 equal until finish of stretch then adjust 3B 2M 1G followed by 3B 2M 0G then 2B 1M 0G. I was running 123 321 but changed with just the same results. Only other additives are Botanicare cal/mag @ just over 1/2 strength and Canna Boost (recent addition) 2ml per litre. My background tap water ec is 0.2. Feeding at around 1.0 ec first week in flower raising to 1.2ec, these numbers are inclusive of my background ec so maybe I should be knocking this off. PH corrected to around 6 every morning dropping as low as 5.5 before corrected.

This is how it starts
View attachment 4420670

Then this
View attachment 4420671

Then this all crinkled and dead, dry as old sticks
View attachment 4420672
Curling leaves on plants less affected
View attachment 4420674

Room temps lights on
View attachment 4420675
Lights off all be it my other room but it is the same.
View attachment 4420676

OK. After reading the whole thread, and looking close....

I have several issues you should address.

Nizza is correct! Control the res or buckets to under 70 but not below 65 F.

pH... STOP allowing that pH to drop to 55 - AS BEST YOU CAN... This is better controlled by setting the pH to 6.2 or 6.3 in the mourning.
I know many who like low pH in hydro BUT, it is easy for it to lead to issues...just like yours. ESPECIALLY SINCE THE pH SHOULD BE A CPL OF TENTHS HIGHER IN BLOOM! Your way to low for blooming cannabis in hydro.
Rule of thumb in hydro applications for pH values... 5.7 to 6.3 The common quality book scale is 5.8 to 6.2.....
Part of the above issue is likely a habit of not dumping and starting with fresh nutrient mix properly. The other side of that coin is how much in concentration your adding back to "top off" the tank or buckets...

Waste build-up from the plant effects the ability of the mix in the bucket to work properly..

Lets take a look at a simple solution to that. "The 33% add back rule"
This is an old school, original hydro rule that still works well today!

Fill your res/bucket with your 100% feed solution. Note how much in volume you filled it with.
Now as that res/bucket reduces in solution, you add back to top off,,,correct? Keeping track of how much your adding back..

You should be adding back a 33% concentration of that feed solution and not 100%...

To make a 33% solution: Simply take a gallon of the 100% solution and add two (2) more gallons of plain water to it. You now have a 33% solution.

Top off using that 33% solution.
Now here's the other important part. Remember I asked you to keep track of how much your adding back?
Now when the amount you would add back comes to equal the amount you filled the res/bucket with the first time.
DUMP AND REFILL WITH 100% SOLUTION and restart the whole topping off with 33% all over again.

Do this in veg AND bloom!

Lastly: Mixing
Add each chemical after adding an amount of water.
EXAMPLE: Your making 3 gallons of 100% mix.
Add 4 cups of water to your mixing container.
Add the first chem by pouring the next 4 cup scoop over the measuring cup with the chem in it.
Rinse the measuring cup (I use a 60ml mini cup)
Now do the same for the each chemical you add. ALWAYS ADD THE CAL/MAG LAST.
Now pH your solution and use it.

I get the distinct feeling your not dumping and refilling enough and are suffering from hydro waste build-up..

This sure won't hurt you, so give it a big try out.

Good luck!

 

[Karlos777]

Plants look nice man but dont take my word for it the plant will produce more if the roots are the correct temperature. It would be so easy to get them to the right temperature too. Look it up yourself why 52-55 is too cold, raising your temp in the reservoir ten degrees could possibly create a new issue if the water isn't oxygenated enough.
Your lucky you can keep it that cold a chiller would cost alot

Not saying its detrimental but your yield will suffer because the plant could be metabolizing faster

Ya i guess seeing what i could get someday in warmer temps would be interesting but i usually give away most of my crops anyways haha. I actually draw cold air by buckets from my concrete floors before it enters my growth chamber i keep my buckets 6” underneath and the rest of the bucket in the chamber so my lights dont warm it. I just really love never getting root rot i deal with it in my vegetable gardens indoor all the time and really cuts down on my cucumber and pepper production so thats why i ended up setting up that system a few years ago. But someday ill put a aquarium heater in there and see the diff im on probably 20th generation of clones so would be able to compare.