is there a big difference between 600w hps vs 1000w hps?

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
Each unit is 2x 100W cob lights. Was just wondering if the higher power would change optimal temps in any way over the normal less concentrated led recommendation. Typically root ''zone'' temp is around 72-75f while canopy rests at around 80 (canopy therm is just below leaves reading 75 so adding 5 as a guesstimate). Should probably invest in one of those fancier readers.
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80F is a decent happy medium but it pays to keep in mind that plants are getting a higher proportion of light to heat so you'll want to stay on one with your nutrients.
 
A

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Simply put no matter what lights you run get yourself and IR thermometer. They are dirt cheap. Take leaf temps and shoot for 75F on leaf temps. This will eliminate all the guess work as far as "are my lights to close", "how much IR does my light put out", "how much evaporative cooling am I getting from fans", "what should my air temp be" etc. etc.

75F leaf temps and you are good to go. Adjust your air temps to bring the leaf temps to 75F and that covers all your variables.
 
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Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
larrypizzimp93 said:
what kind of LED would be good for a 4x4 area? I have about $1500. would like to replace 2 of my 1k's
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You can get 2 hlg 600's for that. Same manufacturer more power and ppfd. The difference... Hlg 550 is safety certified and the hlg 600 is a kit.

There are tons of great options out there for LED I mention this one because I personally own one
 
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larrypizzimp93

larrypizzimp93

Well-Known Member
Aqua Man said:
You can get 2 hlg 600's for that. Same manufacturer more power and pods. The difference... Hlg 550 is safety certified and the hlg 600 is a kit.

There are tons of great options out there for LED I mention this one because I personally own one
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what are your yields with that LED?
 
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Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
larrypizzimp93 said:
what are your yields with that LED?
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I grow in a 4x4 it will cover a 5x5 for flower. The strain will have a big impact and so does the growing method. I use a scrog and pull about 1.5 lbs could do more or less like I say lots of other factors but one in a 4x4 gives you all the light you need and more. Plenty of good LEDs out there not just this one
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Aqua Man said:
Simply put no matter what lights you run get yourself and IR thermometer. They are dirt cheap. Take leaf temps and shoot for 75F on leaf temps. This will eliminate all the guess work as far as "are my lights to close", "how much IR does my light put out", "how much evaporative cooling am I getting from fans", "what should my air temp be" etc. etc.

75F leaf temps and you are good to go. Adjust your air temps to bring the leaf temps to 75F and that covers all your variables.
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Don't forget about RH...
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
Yes.
If going that route make sure u get a square wave ballast.
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They make this hard to determine in the packaging.

Best way to tell is to run the lamp and take a snapshot with your smartphone camera; if there are obvious dark bars it's not square wave.
 
Mullalulla

Mullalulla

Well-Known Member
larrypizzimp93 said:
just the cooler part will help a lot as temps are hitting high 80's now. just didn't wanna dump 1500 into 1 LED light. do the cmh produce like no heat?
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no, I run 6 {315 cmh} over a 4 x 8 table .. in a room thats around 12 x 12 ish ? feet that is ... I run a mini split to keep it cool, even during our mild south west winters the ac still needs to be used .. they give off plenty of heat ... 1 watt is 1 watt of heat .. doesnt matter what .. Im running 1890 watts ... all those watts produce heat ... the same as 600 watts of led and 600 watts of hid .. with the led .. its the driver ? I think its called giving off all the heat where as on HID/CMH the bulb is giving off the heat + the balast .. but 600 watts out of either will still give you the same heat temp signature. Hope I explained that right.
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
Yes.
If going that route make sure u get a square wave ballast.
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Even that can be troubling sometimes, some manufacturers/engineers get lazy & cheap with their square wave circuitry, some of them use a modified saw-tooth or dirty square wave and with a gas bulb will hurt efficiency/reliability & ballast temps.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
80F is a decent happy medium but it pays to keep in mind that plants are getting a higher proportion of light to heat so you'll want to stay on one with your nutrients.
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Sorry it's lost terminology on me, what's the meaning of stay on one?.
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
How would 630W make less heat then 600W?
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No idea, Just does. Ive recently upgraded my 600w HPS to a 630wDE CMH (ballast outside the tent like the HPS one was) and my tents cooler. Not allot but it is cooler. I went the Hi-Par light. Quality unit.
Drama right now is its getting colder and I might need to run a heater or run a heater earlier.

Would a HPS lamp and high freq ballast waste more energy to heat than a Low freq CMH?
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
No idea, Just does. Ive recently upgraded my 600w HPS to a 630wDE CMH (ballast outside the tent like the HPS one was) and my tents cooler. Not allot but it is cooler. I went the Hi-Par light. Quality unit.
Drama right now is its getting colder and I might need to run a heater or run a heater earlier.

Would a HPS lamp and high freq ballast waste more energy to heat than a Low freq CMH?
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Yes. Can you add insulation?
 
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