Heisenbeans Genetics

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whytewidow

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sorry I appreciate you helping, but I don't understand any of that, I'd be buying them pre built, would I have any worries running them the way they come?
I build n sell lights. For a hobby. You pay what i pay for parts. I dont charge a penny more for them. You also get the paper work where I paid for them. And drivers. I only charge for materials as they are and my labor. I'm alot cheaper than anyone else anywhere with legit diodes. Alot carry the same warranty. If you're not into building it yourself. You can save some cash and I'll build it for you. Just an option.
 

Greenthumbs256

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I build n sell lights. For a hobby. You pay what i pay for parts. I dont charge a penny more for them. You also get the paper work where I paid for them. And drivers. I only charge for materials as they are and my labor. I'm alot cheaper than anyone else anywhere with legit diodes. Alot carry the same warranty. If you're not into building it yourself. You can save some cash and I'll build it for you. Just an option.
I'll definitely consider that, thank you, I'll have the cash in hand by end of march, and that's when I'm going shopping, but so far I've been pretty much sold on the hlg 600, although I know cobs are better, and most ppl prefer them, the lack of skills to build them, and cost of pre built ones has kinda left me without much choice! but for sure I appreciate the offer and I'll get with you soon to talk about it!
 

whytewidow

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I have a DIY HLG 550, yep 480h-c2100B. I promise it's not enough for my 5x5. I was thinking about adding a second one and someone on the quantam board thread told me today that if I went with more than what I have I would have to use CO2. Stay high, lol.
Swap out the b type driver for an A type and pick up almost 60 watts.
 

whytewidow

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I love wiring in series. It's so much safer than risking a runaway especially since I make my own lights. My wife would have a shit fit if I burned our house down.
It's not really safer. Idky people say that. You get brighter leds in parallel. Less voltage drop, lower voltage to begin with. Under 300v thermal runaway really doesnt happen. It just doesnt carry enough amperage. You get more even lighting in parallel wiring. Bc you dont have the voltage drop going through your string. It really just depends on your comfort zone for wiring. Any time I can run 24v over 266v I will. Every single time. Just my preference.
 

whytewidow

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I'll definitely consider that, thank you, I'll have the cash in hand by end of march, and that's when I'm going shopping, but so far I've been pretty much sold on the hlg 600, although I know cobs are better, and most ppl prefer them, the lack of skills to build them, and cost of pre built ones has kinda left me without much choice! but for sure I appreciate the offer and I'll get with you soon to talk about it!
Yeah buddy just an option. But for the price of that 600. I can build two lights almost.
 

whytewidow

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he makes some videos on youtube! check em out! I think he covers all that!

look up heisen bubble

Yeah he definitely has hydro down to science. I've been thinkn bout building a 2 bucket system like his for a 32x32 tent. Just to see what I can pull out of 7.1 sqft may try in coco, but hydro weight wise would smash it.
 

Greenthumbs256

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Yeah buddy just an option. But for the price of that 600. I can build two lights almost.
yea prebuilt with the dimmer knobs, is going to run me right at, 760 and maybe some change! I've found places to buy the kits cheaper in just don't trust myself! plus chance of fire and all that, it's not worth even chancing it! plus if I was to mess up something, I can't afford to fix or replace it! taken me months to save up to get these, and I'm getting close! kinda proud of myself lol, I'm on the poor side for sure lol!
 

whytewidow

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yea prebuilt with the dimmer knobs, is going to run me right at, 760 and maybe some change! I've found places to buy the kits cheaper in just don't trust myself! plus chance of fire and all that, it's not worth even chancing it! plus if I was to mess up something, I can't afford to fix or replace it! taken me months to save up to get these, and I'm getting close! kinda proud of myself lol, I'm on the poor side for sure lol!
Yeah the lights I build. Are plug n play. Has dimmer knobs voltage/amperage kilowatt usage. And can also make it controlled from your phone at all times if you have wifi near your grow. I'm not trying to sell anything. I just do it for a hobby. My son helps me. He wants to be an electrician like me. I did the samething with my dad. Not build lights but that's how I learned about wiring to begin with. Every diode has the same warranty as if you bought it straight from Samsung or whoever. Or I can legit draw you a picture of how to wire it that a monkey could read. It really is simple. .
 

Heisenbeans

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It's not really safer. Idky people say that. You get brighter leds in parallel. Less voltage drop, lower voltage to begin with. Under 300v thermal runaway really doesnt happen. It just doesnt carry enough amperage. You get more even lighting in parallel wiring. Bc you dont have the voltage drop going through your string. It really just depends on your comfort zone for wiring. Any time I can run 24v over 266v I will. Every single time. Just my preference.
The amps is what throttles the brightness. Volts are just volts that drive the cobs to make them come on. Volts multiplied by amps = watts so not sure why parallel would mean brighter.
Maybe brighter on one run more than the other because heat becomes a resistance factor causing one string to pull more amps than another.
I still think series is the way to go and no chance for failures.
 

whytewidow

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The amps is what throttles the brightness. Volts are just volts that drive the cobs to make them come on. Volts multiplied by amps = watts so not sure why parallel would mean brighter.
Maybe brighter on one run more than the other because heat becomes a resistance factor causing one string to pull more amps than another.
I still think series is the way to go and no chance for failures.
Voltage drop in series causes the last light or strip or whatever to recieve less voltage in turn causing less light. Not always. In long strings, like 10-15 cobs. If you check the voltage at your first light and last light the voltage is different. If you check in parallel it's exactly the same.
Screenshot_20190207-183522_Google.jpg
 

CannaBruh

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If 1 diode fails open in your series string your whole string is dark.
If you are running in parallel with some headroom should one branch go open the others should have no trouble taking the current, unless you forgot to engineer that in.

Thermal runaway is an overblown failure mode that we would be seeing a lot of failures if it were a problem, I doubt people are balancing their parallel branches to 1%.
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
The amps is what throttles the brightness. Volts are just volts that drive the cobs to make them come on. Volts multiplied by amps = watts so not sure why parallel would mean brighter.
Maybe brighter on one run more than the other because heat becomes a resistance factor causing one string to pull more amps than another.
I still think series is the way to go and no chance for failures.

If you're build a light that has tons of light sources. Like cobs. Series is the way to go absolutely. But like strips bc the diodes on the strips internally are wired in series parallel. They drawl exactly the same. It's really just preference. I just prefer to have 24v in my tent where I have wet shit and humidity. Than having 286v in it. It's really not that one is better than the other. It really depends on your set up. I mean if you wanna get down to brass tracks. Series parallel is the best circuit to ever be designed.
 

whytewidow

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If 1 diode fails open in your series string your whole string is dark.
If you are running in parallel with some headroom should one branch go open the others should have no trouble taking the current, unless you forgot to engineer that in.

Thermal runaway is an overblown failure mode that we would be seeing a lot of failures if it were a problem, I doubt people are balancing their parallel branches to 1%.

Yeah I have yet to see a single thermal runaway on a light built by anyone with brains. I mean it can happen yes. But if wired right. You gotta better chance at winning the lottery.
 

Heisenbeans

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Voltage drop in series causes the last light or strip or whatever to recieve less voltage in turn causing less light. Not always. In long strings, like 10-15 cobs. If you check the voltage at your first light and last light the voltage is different. If you check in parallel it's exactly the same.
View attachment 4278314
You would be hard pressed to find a driver to put that many cobs on. Cree makes the 36 volt cob which typically the most I think you will ever get on a string is 9 and that's driven super soft.
I'm wiring them boards in series. 3 boards per 320 2100mA on dimmers. Should be a hoot for a 2x8
 

whytewidow

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You would be hard pressed to find a driver to put that many cobs on. Cree makes the 36 volt cob which typically the most I think you will ever get on a string is 9 and that's driven super soft.
I'm wiring them boards in series. 3 boards per 320 2100mA on dimmers. Should be a hoot for a 2x8
Yeah I know. I was just giving an example. But honestly if you put them in series parallel. You can put tons of them on a single driver. That's how I'm building my veg light. 2x2x3 tent gonna have 17 strips. Run super super soft. 788 diodes. Pushing like 0.22w a piece.
 

whytewidow

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You would be hard pressed to find a driver to put that many cobs on. Cree makes the 36 volt cob which typically the most I think you will ever get on a string is 9 and that's driven super soft.
I'm wiring them boards in series. 3 boards per 320 2100mA on dimmers. Should be a hoot for a 2x8
Yeah three boards inclosed like that. You'll prob have to dim them some.

Edit: the hlg600-54 can run about 18 I think in pairs of 2. But they will be run at 764mA super soft and 33.5v only pushing like 25.xxWatts.
 
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