DIY with Quantum Boards

T

Taylor2705

Member
Hey everyone, hoping someone can help with my situation. I bought 6-qb288’s slightly over a year ago. Been working on a shed grow room and at the time anticipated having it all together and built last winter however life got in the way, and I am only now putting my lights together. I have built 2 frame, each with 3 boards being driven by a hlg-320h-54a. I have 1 board which have no continuity between connectors. I have begun to test each individual diode on the board but it was 1:30am when I discovered this issues and had to call it quits for the night. I sent a message to HLG immediately, but hoping someone here may provide insight as to where the connect may have gone awry. I should mention that these have been in there packaging since arrival; boxes were only opened to confirm contents upon arrival; all boards were still bubble wrapping and in static shielding up until their installation on heat sinks last night. Sorry for the long text here, kinda freaking out right now as I have been looking forward to this day for so long now! @Stephenj37826 please if there is anything you can do to help!
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
did you strip enough insulation from the wires? I did that once, took too little off and the socket was clamping on insulation. I'd check all wire connections before assuming its the board. be certain all boards are wired in parallel on this driver.


Taylor2705 said:
Hey everyone, hoping someone can help with my situation. I bought 6-qb288’s slightly over a year ago. Been working on a shed grow room and at the time anticipated having it all together and built last winter however life got in the way, and I am only now putting my lights together. I have built 2 frame, each with 3 boards being driven by a hlg-320h-54a. I have 1 board which have no continuity between connectors. I have begun to test each individual diode on the board but it was 1:30am when I discovered this issues and had to call it quits for the night. I sent a message to HLG immediately, but hoping someone here may provide insight as to where the connect may have gone awry. I should mention that these have been in there packaging since arrival; boxes were only opened to confirm contents upon arrival; all boards were still bubble wrapping and in static shielding up until their installation on heat sinks last night. Sorry for the long text here, kinda freaking out right now as I have been looking forward to this day for so long now! @Stephenj37826 please if there is anything you can do to help!
Click to expand...
 
T

Taylor2705

Member
Thanks for the advice; unfortunately I am positive it is not a stripping issue. I have tested the connections from the driver, troubleshooting 101 check all wiring to see if I fucked it up. I am far from uncomfortable when it comes to basic electrical theory (background education in residential and commercial electrical). From positive to negative inputs on the board there is no continuity. Going through individual diodes currently. This applies to both positive and negative inputs on the board :(

pop22 said:
did you strip enough insulation from the wires? I did that once, took too little off and the socket was clamping on insulation. I'd check all wire connections before assuming its the board. be certain all boards are wired in parallel on this driver.
Click to expand...
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
May be a bad board or connector on the board then. These boards will light up even with a bad LED, just one string will go out so it sounds to me like a bad connector and I had that happen on a board a couple years ago. have you checked from the solder points?

Taylor2705 said:
Thanks for the advice; unfortunately I am positive it is not a stripping issue. I have tested the connections from the driver, troubleshooting 101 check all wiring to see if I fucked it up. I am far from uncomfortable when it comes to basic electrical theory (background education in residential and commercial electrical). From positive to negative inputs on the board there is no continuity. Going through individual diodes currently. This applies to both positive and negative inputs on the board :(
Click to expand...
 
T

Taylor2705

Member
Yeah I have tested the solder points of the inputs and that is where I have lost continuity. Any way of fixing this myself that you know of; I am lost when it comes to pcb’s. this is a production batch from Feb. 20th, 2017

pop22 said:
May be a bad board or connector on the board then. These boards will light up even with a bad LED, just one string will go out so it sounds to me like a bad connector and I had that happen on a board a couple years ago. have you checked from the solder points?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Taylor2705 said:
Hey everyone, hoping someone can help with my situation. I bought 6-qb288’s slightly over a year ago. Been working on a shed grow room and at the time anticipated having it all together and built last winter however life got in the way, and I am only now putting my lights together. I have built 2 frame, each with 3 boards being driven by a hlg-320h-54a. I have 1 board which have no continuity between connectors. I have begun to test each individual diode on the board but it was 1:30am when I discovered this issues and had to call it quits for the night. I sent a message to HLG immediately, but hoping someone here may provide insight as to where the connect may have gone awry. I should mention that these have been in there packaging since arrival; boxes were only opened to confirm contents upon arrival; all boards were still bubble wrapping and in static shielding up until their installation on heat sinks last night. Sorry for the long text here, kinda freaking out right now as I have been looking forward to this day for so long now! @Stephenj37826 please if there is anything you can do to help!
Click to expand...
Shoot an email over to [email protected]. we will take care of you.
 
Black Thumb

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
These QB96 ELITE V2 ENGINE might be what i need to trap the heat in hoods.
So i currently run multiple tables, each with 9 -288 boards on and hlg 320 54 driver.

Will 4 to 6 of the QB96 ELITE V2 ENGINE over a 3x3 be able to give the same numbers as the 9-288's over a 3x3 , at 320 watts ? 9-288's for me at 320 watts do about 1.6gpw

The 288's i have built are so bulky and i had hella issues over summer with heat and my lazy ass still has to rebuild the 288's into HUGE ASS fixtures, and now seeing these lights im rethinking this all together.
They are small enough that I can use my older Fixtures and build them inside and run fans to direct the heat out of the grow.

Is there anywhere we can see charts or comparisons of the 288 vs the qb 96 at XXX wattage >?


Anyone have any Suggestions
 
PopeyeSpinach

PopeyeSpinach

Well-Known Member
Does current matter with drivers?

Ive got a 320H-C1400B powering 4 QB304s

Getting ready to order another 320H driver so i can run two 304s off one driver.

But i dunno if there is any difference with these QBs if i get a 1400B, 1750B, or a 2100B
 
C

Coffee_Monster

Active Member
Are the qb96 elite fixtures (prebuilts, not kits) dimmable? I assume so but I couldn't find mention of it on the website, where it is listed on some of the other fixtures...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top