Here are my Zamaldelicas. (Sorry for the HPS lighting.)
The two on the left are male and will be in the worm bin tomorrow morning.
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Ahh hate to hear that... For you anyway, I know your situation and that you have a limit on plant count and all. Those are some nice males in all seriousness lol.
I have found that on many landrace strains, it is best to hit them heavy up front in the beginning of 12/12 with bloom nutrients, something heavier in P and K and kinda back off the nitrogen at least for the first couple of weeks in flower. Then, on second week
plus through about 4ish, start increasing the nitrogen also while still giving them preferable amount a of P and K.
Also, if you have any, or maybe whatever nute/fert you are currently using has Kelp included in the mix, this is a great addiction for slowing down stretch as well. It contains a natural plant growth regulator (PGR) called Triacontanol... Especially if your kelp is extracted specifically or derived from the ascophylum nodosum species of sea kelp.
I don't always recommend starting 12/12 right off the bat with bloom nutes, but if head space is a concern for someone, especially in running a landrace indoors, you don't want that extra boost of vegetation time in the first few weeks of flower.. You wanna do everything possible to keep it short, kick her ass in gear to start pushing flowers and then once you start noticing good bud site development appearing, that is the sweet spot when you wanna start increasing the nitrogen just a little. Just enough to keep the leaves healthy and green.
There are basically two ways most people kick off the flowering cycle... And simply put...
1) Veg nutes continued into 12/12 for the first 2 to 3 weeks, then start feeding bloom food...(not my preference indoors, but definitely outdoors as this method is very important, in my climate anyway).
2) Flower nutrients started immediately and continued throughout the entire grow (which in my opinion most people see lots of deficiencies, specifically nitrogen with this method... Plants need that nitrogen at least till the last two weeks of flower).
3) This is the best choice for flowering plants with long solid full bud formation and reducing stretch to a minimum. I have created this for myself over the years, having to deal with short head space, I do this indoor only and got the #1 route outdoor.
It goes... Bloom nutes first 2 weeks with enough nitrogen to sustain a healthy green color in leaves, then switch to an equal amount flower/veg nute schedule from say week 2 to 3, then after 3 to 4ish drop the veg nutes and go full bloom specific again just like you did in week one. It is likely from this point forward that you bloom nutes contain enough trace amounts of nitrogen to sustain the plants demands from that point forward (after the 1 to 4 week stretch period), nitrogen is needed slightly but drastically less.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure your picking up on what I'm saying.