DIY 4x12 3500K/5000k lm561c two channel board

VegasWinner said:
Study the driver you are using because you are missing the point and I can't help you any longer. You are going to have to take an electrical course before you claim I am wrong
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The savings you're claiming come from different driver efficiencies. People here use Meanwell drivers specifically because they're very efficient. I'm not seeing where your savings are coming from, either.

Running more COBs softer doesn't affect driver efficiency unless the driver is poorly sized for the application. The chips are more efficient, though.

I'm sure the SMD lights work similarly, so, again, not seeing where the improved efficiency is coming from?

'extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.' HLG doesn't claim their Quantum Boards are dramatically more efficient; they claim only an incremental improvement.

If you're claiming the same, then there's no problem. If you're claiming double, that definitely falls into the 'extraordinary claims' category.
 
ttystikk said:
The savings you're claiming come from different driver efficiencies. People here use Meanwell drivers specifically because they're very efficient. I'm not seeing where your savings are coming from, either.

Running more COBs softer doesn't affect driver efficiency unless the driver is poorly sized for the application. The chips are more efficient, though.

I'm sure the SMD lights work similarly, so, again, not seeing where the improved efficiency is coming from?

'extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.' HLG doesn't claim their Quantum Boards are dramatically more efficient; they claim only an incremental improvement.

If you're claiming the same, then there's no problem. If you're claiming double, that definitely falls into the 'extraordinary claims' category.
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More like the delusional claims category.
 
ttystikk said:
The savings you're claiming come from different driver efficiencies. People here use Meanwell drivers specifically because they're very efficient. I'm not seeing where your savings are coming from, either.

Running more COBs softer doesn't affect driver efficiency unless the driver is poorly sized for the application. The chips are more efficient, though.

I'm sure the SMD lights work similarly, so, again, not seeing where the improved efficiency is coming from?

'extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.' HLG doesn't claim their Quantum Boards are dramatically more efficient; they claim only an incremental improvement.

If you're claiming the same, then there's no problem. If you're claiming double, that definitely falls into the 'extraordinary claims' category.
Click to expand...
A typical 200w cob setup uses a 1400mA driver with 36v cobs. It draws three amps to cover 2x2 with 200 watts. With A GG uses a 1050mA driver drawing two amps less amps same 200w .same coverage.

Two amps per hour is less than three amps per hour. More efficient use to cover 2x2 with 200w per hour. You are paying for the power supply on an hourly basis not the cob. The driver is connected to the wall. The lower operating amps of the driver means the driver makes less heat thru thermal resistance of the wire using the right hand rule for current. Less current less resistance greater efficiencies. Electronics operate more efficiently the cooler they are power supplies are no exception.

If you are running 240 320 and 480 drivers they are very large heavy because they use more amps.

All 185h drivers generate 200w at various current draws. The lower the amps the more efficient less heat. A 350mA can generate 200w but the Vf is 257v a 500mA is 400v a 700mA is 286v a 1050mA is 184v a 1400mA is 143v.

The lower amp rated drivers use less energy. The higher amp rated drivers use more energy to do the same watts.

You pay for amps used not volts used. Power is delivered at a constant voltage. You are charged by how many amps you carry on those constant volts 120v for usa or 240v commercial. 240v is more efficient than120v lower amps again.

A 1400ma current is heavier/more than a 1050ma current both traveling on a 120v circuit or a 240v circuit.

If you could choose you would choose the lowest rated amp products if you want a lower power bill.
 
Have you measured the current at the load as well as the voltage under load?

Give us these numbers for both fixtures.

Different drivers can be more efficient and I do agree running 100W COBs at 300mA is pretty dang efficient so the low current more emitters = better spread better efficiency.

Where I am having trouble understanding when you say one kind of 200W is cheaper than another 200W, by some 25%, this does not compute for the same load over the same time. Unless you have some rate you are not factoring in, but that would be dependent on your local rates/time of the day, not efficiencies in the LED or driver.
 
I did not claim the improvement was the smd over the cob I stated the smd uses less amps a smaller driver covering the same area with the same 200w.

A 1400 driver costs more to operate than a 1050 driver. The 1400 uses more amps per hour.

Nothing extraordinary about that just regular.
 
Have you measured the current at the load as well as the voltage under load?

Give us these numbers for both fixtures.

Different drivers can be more efficient and I do agree running 100W COBs at 300mA is pretty dang efficient so the low current more emitters = better spread better efficiency.
 
I am now going back to ignoring the entire group of you because you all have become an embarrassing with silly questions you should pose to your local power company
Good evening you folks do not disappoint always behaving poorly and acting like bullies.
Good night
 
My goodness....

The most basic easy non invasive testing would be to capture the current draw at the load, under load (load is current btw) as well as the voltage at the load, under load, and do the math the guy up there spelled out. That is the POWER used in Watts.

This is simple, one meter, 10 minutes, numbers, easy money.
 
VegasWinner said:
A typical 200w cob setup uses a 1400mA driver with 36v cobs. It draws three amps to cover 2x2 with 200 watts. With A GG uses a 1050mA driver drawing two amps less amps same 200w .same coverage.

Two amps per hour is less than three amps per hour. More efficient use to cover 2x2 with 200w per hour. You are paying for the power supply on an hourly basis not the cob. The driver is connected to the wall. The lower operating amps of the driver means the driver makes less heat thru thermal resistance of the wire using the right hand rule for current. Less current less resistance greater efficiencies. Electronics operate more efficiently the cooler they are power supplies are no exception.

If you are running 240 320 and 480 drivers they are very large heavy because they use more amps.

All 185h drivers generate 200w at various current draws. The lower the amps the more efficient less heat. A 350mA can generate 200w but the Vf is 257v a 500mA is 400v a 700mA is 286v a 1050mA is 184v a 1400mA is 143v.

The lower amp rated drivers use less energy. The higher amp rated drivers use more energy to do the same watts.

You pay for amps used not volts used. Power is delivered at a constant voltage. You are charged by how many amps you carry on those constant volts 120v for usa or 240v commercial. 240v is more efficient than120v lower amps again.

A 1400ma current is heavier/more than a 1050ma current both traveling on a 120v circuit or a 240v circuit.

If you could choose you would choose the lowest rated amp products if you want a lower power bill.
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But you actually pay for WATTS used and I fail to see how this changes that. There might be one percent improvement- but not double.

But I'm willing to be proven wrong so by all means, bring on the evidence validating the savings!
 
ttystikk said:
But you actually pay for WATTS used and I fail to see how this changes that. There might be one percent improvement- but not double.

But I'm willing to be proven wrong so by all means, bring on the evidence validating the savings!
Click to expand...

Your not wrong, you are correct. The electric company charges in Kilowatts, not KiloAmps. Whether you are using a higher voltage with a lower current or a lower voltage with a higher current you are achieving the same wattage and paying the same amount to electric company for it.
 
nc208 said:
Your not wrong, you are correct. The electric company charges in Kilowatts, not KiloAmps. Whether you are using a higher voltage with a lower current or a lower voltage with a higher current you are achieving the same wattage and paying the same amount to electric company for it.
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There are some losses with the lower voltage, but it's not 25%
 
total power consumed ie 200w vs 200w is the same on your bill regardless of what voltage or current you use. I can't believe this has actually carried on this far.
 
He is actually right. Power meters measures amps used assuming a 240 (or whatever source v) the utility provides.

The power company can screw you by dropping the source voltage. In order to compensate, more amps are needed for the same wattage.

Higher voltage has less drop over distance.

I think where everyone is confused is the 200w part. Maybe it should be said that the cobs produce less light at 200w?
 
"Power" meters measure current and voltage and give you that over time by spinning a disc or storing it to flash (likely) and spitting out over the air to the utility in kWh.
 
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