What are the differences between Mean Well A, B and C driver versions?

[Redoctober]

So for some reason I have only bought Mean Well "B" version drivers so far for my COB lights (maybe growmau5 recommends that somewhere in his videos...). These are constant current with dimming capability. I have a 1.4 amp one and a 1.05 amp one.

Now that I am looking to add some COBs and branch out a bit I was looking at new drivers and saw that the "A" version are constant current (like what I have) and constant voltage, but you can also adjust the voltage and the current.

Being a novice, I find this a bit confusing. At first glance it seems like you can change the current so you aren't locked in to one output like I am now. In other words, you could start with 4 COBs and crank it up to 1.4a output, then add a few more COBs and tone it down to 1 amp or even 700ma. That way you don't have to buy all new drivers each time you want to switch to a different current output

So is my thinking correct? What are the differences between the different A, B, and C driver versions?
It seems like the "A" version is very flexible, being able to change current?

If it helps, here is a link to Mean Well's video on their adjustable "A" version driver:

 

[Danielson999]

A-Type: IP65 rated. Output voltage and constant current level can
be adjusted through internal potentiometer

B-Type: IP67 rated and built-in 3 in 1 dimming function
(1~10VDC, PWM signal, or resistance)

A-Type you adjust a dial on the driver to dim. B-Type has dimming leads coming from the driver which you can connect your own potentiometer to. More flexibility with the B-type driver.

 

[sethimus]

RTFM

 

[Goerilla]

Hi.
Do anybody know if the A model is easy to adjust or if the internal pot is one that is difficult to turn as in some cheap electronic? Also can it be adjusted year after year without ruining the internal pot?

Rilla.

 

[RandomHero8913]

A model is easy to turn with a #0 Phillips head screwdriver. Not sure how long it will last but how often are you planning on turning it? Seem like a set-it-and-forget-it kind of thing.

 

[VegasWinner]

B models can be dimmed from 100% to 50% incrementally, while the A model goes from 100% to 50% no middle ground

 

[Crazaer]

B models can be dimmed from 100% to 50% incrementally, while the A model goes from 100% to 50% no middle ground

To be clear, are you saying that the A series can only be set to 100% or to 50%?

 

[Shugglet]

B models can be dimmed from 100% to 50% incrementally, while the A model goes from 100% to 50% no middle ground

Weird, I was under the impression B types could be dimmed 0-100%. A type goes from 50-100.

Last I checked in practice (A) goes from roughly 40% to 112% of nominal rating. B also hits close to the 112% mark.

 

[Shugglet]

To be clear, are you saying that the A series can only be set to 100% or to 50%?

Nah, A types go from about 40 to 112 and everything in between.

 

[Shugglet]

A model is easy to turn with a #0 Phillips head screwdriver. Not sure how long it will last but how often are you planning on turning it? Seem like a set-it-and-forget-it kind of thing.

If your light is at a fixed point you adjust lighting via dimming vs raising and lowering light. That said, if you use the right size screw driver and dont wrench on it it will be just fine.

 

[sanjuan]

B models can be dimmed from 100% to 50% incrementally, while the A model goes from 100% to 50% no middle ground

Not in my experience with HLG and HBG drivers; model A is just as adjustable, sometimes a bit more so by spec.

The A model uses name brand pots so I expect it will last long enough for the life of the driver. I bought A's for streamlined assembly and appearance but I might buy B's next time.

I've been growing from seed in my flower room and wasting a lot of photons because I'm too lazy to turn things down, I just raise the ratchet hangers.

 

[Redoctober]

Okay so the potentiometers on the "A" version driver have pretty much the same function as a dimmer knob that you attach separately in the "B" version is what I'm understanding from your responses.

So next question: Does dimming actually lower the current from say 1.4a down to 700ma when you turn the knob down (i.e. run your lights more efficiently)?

Or does dimming lower the light intensity by changing something other than current?

{For those with electronics experience, THIS ARTICLE is the reason I ask - it's about analog dimming vs PWM dimming (which is pulse dimming). It's over my head but left me wondering if we are actually changing the driver current when we turn the dimmer knob}

 

[Boatguy]

Okay so the potentiometers on the "A" version driver have pretty much the same function as a dimmer knob that you attach separately in the "B" version is what I'm understanding from your responses.

So next question: Does dimming actually lower the current from say 1.5a down to 700ma when you turn the knob down (i.e. run your lights more efficiently?)

Or does dimming lower the light intensity by changing something other than current?

Yes, you install a knob that dimms the ballasts output. The datasheet states the dimmable range.
some dim to 0 some dim less

 

[CobKits]

i dont have time to do this thread justice right now (post office time) but just for starters, OP, youre looking at a completely different driver in the HLGxxx-48A series, they also make constant current "A" drivers such as hlg-185h-1400A, and if youre looking to compare "A" vs"B" drivers might be wotyhwhile to stay in same series, otherwise it becomes a discussion of CC vs CC/CV drivers

 

[Redoctober]

i dont have time to do this thread justice right now (post office time) but just for starters, OP, youre looking at a completely different driver in the HLGxxx-48A series, they also make constant current "A" drivers such as hlg-185h-1400A, and if youre looking to compare "A" vs"B" drivers might be wotyhwhile to stay in same series, otherwise it becomes a discussion of CC vs CC/CV drivers

Thanks @CobKits, I know you get a zillion posts a day. I think my original curiosity/confusion on the topic was sparked by something you posted on another thread advising someone to get an "A" version driver because you can adjust both voltage and current. That post can easily be taken out of context because you were just giving specific advice on that particular guy's setup.

The main thrust of what I'm after (since I really don't ever see a need to do parallel wiring in a COB setup) is now knowing what you have all confirmed in this thread, why not always buy a higher amperage driver like a 1.4 or a 2.0 which you can effectively turn into a 1amp or 700ma at any time with a dimmer. If you buy the 700ma driver, you are then capped at that lower current and can't drive your COBs any harder. But if you buy a 2.0amp driver, you now essentially own all lower current drivers with the simply turn of a dimmer knob.

In @Growmau5 original video series he dedicates a portion of one of the videos to driver selection where he compares driver current efficiency and number of COBs. Can we amend that discussion to say that you don't need to choose between buying the 1.4a driver and running 4 COBs on it vs buying a 700ma driver and running 8 COBs; just buy the 1.4 or 2 amp model, and you now own every lower current driver all in one?

...unless I'm missing something

 

[Boatguy]

Thanks @CobKits, I know you get a zillion posts a day. I think my original curiosity/confusion on the topic was sparked by something you posted on another thread advising someone to get an "A" version driver because you can adjust both voltage and current. That post can easily be taken out of context because you were just giving specific advice on that particular guy's setup.

The main thrust of what I'm after (since I really don't ever see a need to do parallel wiring in a COB setup) is now knowing what you have all confirmed in this thread, why not always buy a higher amperage driver like a 1.4 or a 2.0 which you can effectively turn into a 1amp or 700ma at any time with a dimmer. If you buy the 700ma driver, you are then capped at that lower current and can't drive your COBs any harder. But if you buy a 2.0amp driver, you now essentially own all lower current drivers with the simply turn of a dimmer knob.

In @Growmau5 original video series he dedicates a portion of one of the videos to driver selection where he compares driver current efficiency and number of COBs. Can we amend that discussion to say that you don't need to choose between buying the 1.4a driver and running 4 COBs on it vs buying a 700ma driver and running 8 COBs; just buy the 1.4 or 2 amp model, and you now own every lower current driver all in one?

...unless I'm missing something

Those ideas only work if you have a driver that is that adjustable to all levels of voltage/amperage you require.. Either way you would have to manually adjust and check both to make sure you have it right for you applicatiion.
Not sure if it was a mistake but you would need to choose to run two parallel strings of 4 at 1.4a vs one string of 8 at 700ma.
The main thing is to read the datasheet and make sure the driver has the specs to meet your needs.
Either it will work for your needs, or it wont.
There are many different solutions available for most setups.

 

[Joe34]

why not always buy a higher amperage driver like a 1.4 or a 2.0 which you can effectively turn into a 1amp or 700ma at any time with a dimmer. If you buy the 700ma driver, you are then capped at that lower current and can't drive your COBs any harder. But if you buy a 2.0amp driver, you now essentially own all lower current drivers with the simply turn of a dimmer knob.

I thought like this at the start, but then soon learnt that the future-flexibility-range that your trying to create cant be very big(almost not worth the small gain), because once u raise your future-higher amps, the volt range that the driver gives lowers and you will quickly find yourself now under your original Volt requirement, so its almost not possible. - unless theres some electrian's wireing hacking like boatguy may have hinted above, which i dont know about...

 

[Redoctober]

I think I got it. So let's use the driver I currently have as an example: a Mean Well HLG-240H-C1050B

Specs:
Constant Current (CC)
Output Current-Channel 1: 1.05 A
Output Voltage-Channel 1: 238 V
Output Power: 249.9 W
Input Voltage: 90 VAC to 305 VAC, 127 VDC to 431 VDC
Dimming: With Dimming
Number of Outputs: 1 Output

So the max number of 52v COBs I can run is 4 (238 / 52 = 4.57)
This would not change if I dim the driver down to 700ma
I can still run only 4 COBs, but I'd be running them more efficiently
Even if I had a 1.4 amp driver and I want to add extra COBs, I'd still have to buy another driver because I can not exceed the max voltage (which is always lower for higher amp drivers I noticed)
However I have the option to run those 4 COBs anywhere from 1.4 amps, all the way down to 700ma
If start out with the 700ma driver, I will have a slightly higher voltage, and can therefore add 1 or two extra COBs, but can only ever drive them at a max of 700ma

So here's the tradeoff:
Let's say I want to drive 6 COBs, I can either buy 1x 700ma driver with a voltage of 357, but am locked in to the 700ma current and can never drive them harder,
Or I can buy 2x 1.4a drivers with any voltage greater than 208 (52v x 4 = 20 and have overhead voltage left over for 2 more COBs, plus the ability to dim down the COBs if desired,
but at the cost of a higher up front investment for 2 drivers instead of 1

Do I have this correct?

 

[CobKits]

if you want to expand its hard to beat constant voltage low-voltage drivers

start off with 4 cobs @ 50W each
add 2 more cobs and now all are @ 33W each
add 2 more cobs and now all are @ 25W each
add another driver and now you have 8 cobs @ 50W ea
add 2 more cobs and now you have 10 cobs@ 40W ea

etc.

 

[Redoctober]

if you want to expand its hard to beat constant voltage low-voltage drivers

start off with 4 cobs @ 50W each
add 2 more cobs and now all are @ 33W each
add 2 more cobs and now all are @ 25W each
add another driver and now you have 8 cobs @ 50W ea
add 2 more cobs and now you have 10 cobs@ 40W ea

etc.

Wouldn't you need a minimum of a 52v driver for the 1818 series?

Does such a driver exist? Mean Well (CV) drivers seem to only go up to 48v

Can you still wire in both series and parallel with constant voltage?