Introducing CobKits.com - specializing in DIY and Citizen COBs

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

Nichia J130 B

HLG -120-48 driver

king brite reflectors


tested..hydro galaxy par meter

3 nichias at 1 ft approx 550 u-mols= 103.1 w=34w each

2 nichias 1 ft approx 650 u-mols"=106.1 w=53w each

.....did not try 4 cobs yet..

woulda got 1212 's but at the time noone had em and these were available i canada with 7 $ shipping

will try my cree 3590 bars when i get time

i will be ordering from u in the future

i think i will test them with no reflecftor now

 

[Bubblin]

lol i was talking with an riuer recently about the old days and he was like "im pretty sure my first growlight was a construction light stolen by my bros"

the good old days where you doubled back around on your drive to the hydro store

Truth ^

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

Nichia J130 B

HLG -120-48 driver

king brite reflectors


tested..hydro galaxy par meter

3 nichias at 1 ft approx 550 u-mols= 103.1 w=34w each

2 nichias 1 ft approx 650 u-mols"=106.1 w=53w each

.....did not try 4 cobs yet..i am using mingfa heat sinks

woulda got 1212 's but at the time noone had em and these were available i canada with 7 $ shipping

will try my cree 3590 bars when i get time

i will be ordering from u in the future

update

no reflector

2 nichias 53 w ..at 12 " 550umols..

at 8" 640 and steady around 600+umols between them both

i do NOT know how these stack up to other cobs like cree vero and citizen..

 

[PhotonFUD]

you know how i know youre a fake redneck? no stolen aluminum street signs in your garage to use for heatsinks

You can often buy them from surplus stores fairly cheap. I got a few for a buck a piece.

 

[PhotonFUD]

I was listening to DIY Tech Talk#2 on Greengenes Youtube channel with Greengene, Growmau5 and Robin. I found out that i prob should have went with the 80CRI instead of the 90CRI because i was looking at the calculator on Citizen and i actually lost like 27-30 Lumens/watt by going with the 90CRI because of the added phosphor in the 90CRI chip. I guess they were saying that the added little bit of far red is not worth the loss. It makes sense after i went and looked at the numbers. The 90CRI chip only adds a sliver of extra red at the end of the spectrum but at a bigger loss in Lumens/watt. Also causes a pretty substantial loss in the 620-630nm range from the spectrum chart they were showing. What is your take on it @CobKits?

Without reading further, we all know that it isn't lumens we care about, it is PPFD. For light sources, we are looking for PPF which is just a raw count of photons. Lumens is a weighted measurement giving increased values for certain wavelengths so it means very little for us.

Lumens do provide a bit of guidance but that is about it. As long as you have something that appears somewhat decently efficient then you look into the SPD and figure out what you will have to work with in your environment.

CRI is a quality measurement in respect to lumens. It may or may not have an impact on the number of photons a light source produces but the simplest answer is whichever CRI produces the highest PPF.

 

[kaivorth]

What's the recommended ppfd range to stay in?

 

[PhotonFUD]

What's the recommended ppfd range to stay in?

That is up for debate.

I try to go for ~400 average (200-600) over the entire plant, not just the canopy.

 

[kaivorth]

That is up for debate.

I try to go for ~400 average (200-600) over the entire plant, not just the canopy.

Oh really? That's it? I see people with 800-1000ppfd all the time.

Are the CXB3500 36v still the most efficient at 700ma? I see they're at .64 currently.

 

[mx5spd]

Can someone help out a newb. Ok first thing is add forward voltage for series operation. (3) 1212 is 105V. How is it they will run using the H 185 48 driver. Spec sheet says it's good for 48V. I am missing a chunk of theory here. Very confused.

 

[Big smo]

Can someone help out a newb. Ok first thing is add forward voltage for series operation. (3) 1212 is 105V. How is it they will run using the H 185 48 driver. Spec sheet says it's good for 48V. I am missing a chunk of theory here. Very confused.

I have seen so many people get messed up with this including myself awhile back. Cobby think you should add in they need to be wired in parallel and not series.

 

[mx5spd]

I have seen so many people get messed up with this including myself awhile back. Cobby think you should add in they need to be wired in parallel and not series.

Ive never built one in parallel. I could do it but thought that puts the LEDs at risk if one burns out. Im old school started with 3 watt Osrams and a hundred solder joints per light. Hes the expert and Im no engineer. Appears tech has blown by me. My last DIY light lasted 4 years. OK back on the short bus.

 

[Big smo]

Ive never built one in parallel. I could do it but thought that puts the LEDs at risk if one burns out. Im old school started with 3 watt Osrams and a hundred solder joints per light. Hes the expert and Im no engineer. Appears tech has blown by me. My last DIY light lasted 4 years. OK back on the short bus.

It's debatable what way is the best. Cost wise parallel is the winner and I do like the fact you can really fine tune the string by adding more 13$ chips. Makes for s pretty inexpensive light.

 

[CobKits]

I have seen so many people get messed up with this including myself awhile back. Cobby think you should add in they need to be wired in parallel and not series.

i'll try to make the driver page more explicit.

That is up for debate. I try to go for ~400 average (200-600) over the entire plant, not just the canopy.

trying to be polite here, but its kind of not up for debate. Youre the only person who advises 400, every other person on this site would say 600-1200. and there is plenty of science to back that up. But there are other threads for that. im all for 400+ on the bottoms but top canopy really should have 600+

 

[CobKits]

Oh really? That's it? I see people with 800-1000ppfd all the time.

Are the CXB3500 36v still the most efficient at 700ma? I see they're at .64 currently.

citi 1818, citi 1825, citi 3618, vero gen7 B,C, and D versions all more efficient than cree at 25W (but not by much)

 

[CobKits]

Can someone help out a newb. Ok first thing is add forward voltage for series operation. (3) 1212 is 105V. How is it they will run using the H 185 48 driver. Spec sheet says it's good for 48V. I am missing a chunk of theory here. Very confused.

if you want to run series get a hlg-240h-C1050 or -C1400

the hlg120-48A and 185-48A are designed for parallel low voltage operation

 

[kaivorth]

i'll try to make the driver page more explicit.

trying to be polite here, but its kind of not up for debate. Youre the only person who advises 400, every other person on this site would say 600-1200. and there is plenty of science to back that up. But there are other threads for that. im all for 400+ on the bottoms but top canopy really should have 600+

This is what I was kinda expecting, glad I asked.

I'm going to buy 4 36V 3500k 80CRI CBX3590's, and a single driver to run these at 1400ma for an 8sq ft area. Should give me 714PPFD if I did my math right?

Would this be a good driver? This will be a huge step up from that crappy Mars300 unit I had.

HLG-185H-C1400B

 

[mx5spd]

if you want to run series get a hlg-240h-C1050 or -C1400

the hlg120-48A and 185-48A are designed for parallel low voltage operation

Thanks for reply. It is clear now. Been scratching my head for a week. I'm not the brightest LED on the string. LOL. Budget wise parallel wins hands down.

 

[CobKits]

This is what I was kinda expecting, glad I asked.

I'm going to buy 4 36V 3500k 80CRI CBX3590's, and a single driver to run these at 1400ma for an 8sq ft area. Should give me 714PPFD if I did my math right?

Would this be a good driver? This will be a huge step up from that crappy Mars300 unit I had.

HLG-185H-C1400B

seems low for 8 sq ft, thats only about 13 parW/SF so prob closer to 550-600 ppfd

 

[kaivorth]

seems low for 8 sq ft, thats only about 13 parW/SF so prob closer to 550-600 ppfd

Could you show me how you calculated that by any chance? I have a spreadsheet I messed up on apparently.

 

[Big smo]

This is what I was kinda expecting, glad I asked.

I'm going to buy 4 36V 3500k 80CRI CBX3590's, and a single driver to run these at 1400ma for an 8sq ft area. Should give me 714PPFD if I did my math right?

Would this be a good driver? This will be a huge step up from that crappy Mars300 unit I had.

HLG-185H-C1400B

Go with the citizen cobs. For the price you'll get much more bang for your buck