Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
no the opposite
JorgeGonzales
Well-Known Member
Cree's recommendations are based on safe operating temperatures, SupraSPL's recommendation is based on both safe operating temperatures and electrical efficiency, which is greater at lower temperatures. Less heat = more light.
dom-one dela nooch
Active Member
yes fully aware that the pin heatsinks run at lower temps was not aware you could put 3 on an heatsink( but you have to be stonned to put 3 3950s that close together on one 140mm heatsink and making a massive hotspot on your plants as i am going for spacing ) .thank you for that info but whats with the checking yourself line as bit passive agessive for no reason lol
Last edited:
dom-one dela nooch
Active Member
nice ideal and is the best way to go having drivers out of the grow room and how to do it has been bugging me for weeks now as for now i have the drivers mounted 2 inches above the heatsink with brass and ceramic washers but want to try what you have done .Hello all, its heatsink appreciation month here at RIU and in the spirit of the holidays I have been crunching numbers for my latest project: attempting to incorporate round-pin heatsinks into a forced-air duct, or "cool-tube", or "vinyl fencepost" as it were.
Unfortunately the best tool for the job turns out to be elliptical fin heatsinks. These work best because they are designed with the direction of the airflow in mind. In this configuration all of the fins are arranged in a uniform direction which allows for low resistance and maximum airflow in this type of application. They look like this and I cant find any for the price I want. oh well:
Next best are round-pin sinks. I found this fun little calculator to play with....http://www.myheatsinks.com/calculate/round-pin-heat-sink-calculator/
It only calculates for square sinks but in my case thats actually preferable.
So plugging my numbers in.....100mm x 100mm x 40mm with 60mm of clearance in the tube [4" x 4" x 36" tube]. i get about .34C°/w with an airflow of 324lfm from my fan. i realize thats just the first heatsink in the line and the latter sinks will inherit a higher Ta
But at least it gives me (maybe you) a ballpark idea of what size sinks Ill need to get the job done.
Btw I converted from CFM to LFM using this calculator...
http://www.engineering.com/calculators/airflow.htm
Why is this significant?
Until now I had no idea how pin sinks work with active cooling. As far as I can tell, everyone is using them passively. Ive grown to like active cooling, maybe you like it to?
Maybe you avoid it because you like to run remote drivers like me and cable management gives you headaches.
Here's a secret:
4-pole m12 connectors.
They look like this and allow you to consolidate everything into one tidy package:
Thats the male side that i have hooked to the junction box on top of my bars. Kinda like an xlr but with as many wires[and poles] as you want and they are threaded so you dont accidentally unplug your shit.
Anyway, options!
Shawndeadhead
Well-Known Member
Hey can anyone answer this, and yes I already searched and couldn't really find a straight answer on it. Building my 2nd COB grow light was so impressed with my vero 18 flowering light im gonna build one for my veg light, but looking to save a bit of cash this time. (Last light came in at $775)
https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/alpine-m1-passive.html
Can this Arctic Alpine M1 passive heatsink passively cool a Bridgelux Vero 18 driven @1050ma 29.5V and 31W?
My last light I never figured out the heatsink math I just bought a bunch of cooliance pin fin heatsinks capable of cooling up to 60W thinking ahead of future expansion so I could just keep the frame and heatsinks together and just a simple plug and play of new COBs and drivers.
Thanks ahead of time.
https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/alpine-m1-passive.html
Can this Arctic Alpine M1 passive heatsink passively cool a Bridgelux Vero 18 driven @1050ma 29.5V and 31W?
My last light I never figured out the heatsink math I just bought a bunch of cooliance pin fin heatsinks capable of cooling up to 60W thinking ahead of future expansion so I could just keep the frame and heatsinks together and just a simple plug and play of new COBs and drivers.
Thanks ahead of time.
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
@SupraSPL or anyone with the figures already in their head.
What is the dissipation in W of those round pin heat sinks so many people are using, like the ones on cutter.au? I would work it out myself but I don't have one in front of me or the measurements of the pins and every other dimension. They say they can run a 3590 soft up to 50w but that doesn't tell me the actual dissipated Watts of the heat sink.
I have worked out the 70mm2 square ones I have but there must be a page where someone has worked it out already? I started reading but after the first 12 pages I thought I would just ask.
If anyone has that figure in their head it would be most appreciated.
Edit would the correct term be Watts dissipated or dissipated watts?
What is the dissipation in W of those round pin heat sinks so many people are using, like the ones on cutter.au? I would work it out myself but I don't have one in front of me or the measurements of the pins and every other dimension. They say they can run a 3590 soft up to 50w but that doesn't tell me the actual dissipated Watts of the heat sink.
I have worked out the 70mm2 square ones I have but there must be a page where someone has worked it out already? I started reading but after the first 12 pages I thought I would just ask.
If anyone has that figure in their head it would be most appreciated.
Edit would the correct term be Watts dissipated or dissipated watts?
Shawndeadhead
Well-Known Member
Those pin fins are what I used in my last build but I never did the math because I wanted to have the possibility to upgrade since this is my flowering light, so I have 16 of them 1 per sq ft
currently I'm running Vero 18s at 31W each but I bought the Cooliance pin fins that could dissipate up to 60W and I paid a alot of cash for 16 of them at $30 each, but I have lots of room to upgrade by either getting larger cobs or replacing my meanwell 1050MA drivers with a higher MA and pushing more watts and lumen from my vero 18s, I'm honestly very surprised by how well the vero 18s are performing for me as a flowering light, of course running one per sq ft probably didn't hurt matters any !!!!!
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
So I came up with this idea to do a water cooled heat sink for a 5 cob lite, but instead of 5 separate water blocks which are spendy and need too many connections (which = potential leaks), I decided to use a single 48" piece of 2" x 6" extruded rectangular aluminium tube instead. My idea (not as original as I thought after doing some googling it, someone's always stealing my ideas before I think of them, lol) is to cut and taper each end to remove the corners and then weld it up with a 1/2" fip fitting at each end.
If it works, I'm thinking of making 7 more to fill my grow space, connect them together with either pex or vinyl tubing, which will go to a heat exchanger consisting of a used car radiator and a box fan set up outside the grow room. So question is, has anybody seen or had any xp with a similar design, and does this sound like it will work? Not sure what kind of flow rate I'll need, so I'll probably get a variable speed circulating pump, but any advice or critique is appreciated ;?)
If it works, I'm thinking of making 7 more to fill my grow space, connect them together with either pex or vinyl tubing, which will go to a heat exchanger consisting of a used car radiator and a box fan set up outside the grow room. So question is, has anybody seen or had any xp with a similar design, and does this sound like it will work? Not sure what kind of flow rate I'll need, so I'll probably get a variable speed circulating pump, but any advice or critique is appreciated ;?)
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'd think by the time it gets to the end one, it'd be pretty Frickin hot. The last bar or few, might have issues. Just because it's absorbing so much heat from each individual bar before reaching the last 2 or 3 of your 8.
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Fuck you, bitch. You're such a fucking troll. I was simply giving him my opinion. Suck my cock.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Use Pex. Otherwise it's a solid design.
I'd also suggest using a manifold downstream of your pump to split water between your rails, use valves before and after each one, and another manifold to gather the return lines.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So you saw the problem I mentioned and avoided it by manifolding water, split, directly In to each one. Nice.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Stop giving BAD ADVICE, you fucking moron.
You've never done it so YOU DON'T KNOW. So stop acting like it!
Stop acting like you have answers to problems you've never encountered, fool!
Someone serious might actually believe your stupid self inflating bullshit and cost themselves a lot of money!
Is that clear enough for you, you chronically incompetent loudmouth?!
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Da fuk? Now you're attempting to take credit for MY EXPERIENCE?
PISS OFF YOU STUPID TROLL.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
He couldn't find it. Your girlfriend couldn't, either so she left your bitch ass.
#micropeen
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
hahaha love the airwalker hate, I literally had to stop visiting RIU for a while because of this idiot trashing every single thread in the LED section.