Abiqua
Well-Known Member
hey gang....
If you ever though about getting into building your own led light, follow along....I took a bunch of photos as I put together a veg light for a 1x2' space with maybe 27" of height or so...this should cover it well...
Specs
21" Long x 5" wide by 2" high.....
2x Vero 10 5k @ 6-7watts each = 13 watt
5v fan power supply [5v x .5amps] = 2.5 watts
Roughly a 15w fixture, could almost cover 4 sq. ft.....@ 24-18"
It is about a 13w light...I am using a 280mA driver to run two cobs in a series.....I am still running over 40% efficiency direct to the canopy, that competes or beats out per watt ANY high end commercial light!
as you can see, if I was running @ 280ma I would be slightly below 42% efficiency and using almost 7 watts for each cob at about 140 lumens per watt....more important the PAR wattage
Par Wattage is [Efficiency % x Wattage]
Each Vero is [.42 x 6.39= 2.68 watts]
for comparison.......Consider a 26w 5k CFL is probably 15% efficiency so..[.15x26 = 3.9 par watts]
......but, a LED cobs emit light in a 120 degree + arc, downward from the light source...meaning very little light is lost like the omnidirectional light that emits from a cfl.....in the best mounting position for downard lighting, the cfl may only be delivering 50% of its PAR on its BEST day....meaning 1.95 par watts for every 26 watt CFL....
Also...the cfl is 65-70 lumens/per watt, while the LED is double that 140+ lumens per watt....
Build
LED drivers are almost always Constant Current...the exceptions are the RGB strip lights...
P Equation Watts = Volts x Amps [current]
Each Vero 10 is 25.57 volts @250 milliamps of current [25.7 x .25= 6.3925 watts]
1 heatsink I had laying around from LEDSupply [75 grams]...Another is an unknown that weighs 59grams and is using a recycled Playstation 2, 60mm 7v dc cooling fan...The other 50mm .125 12v fan was from a 400w inverter case....
Fan Power Supply: 5v 700ma AC/DC phone charger...Nokia
Rule of thumb: for every 25cm2 of heatsink using active cooling [fans] assume cooling for 1watt of led disapation....for passive cooling assume 75cm2 for every 1w.
The 3rd heatsink is also harvested from a Playstation 2 and was meant for a 3rd Vero led, but I decided to use it as a heat extractor for the driver....[these things can get hot and make your ambient temps [Ta] rise a little.....More so in much bigger builds, but still the concept remains...
Parts / Assembly
Really, I had everything left over from past builds or wrong orders....Wago wire connectors [224-412's] are a must.
Using Prolimatech PK1 paste to mount the cobs and a little laser thermal temperatur gauge is super handy for monitoring temps during the 1st testing...
Also had some left over driver cases that I made into Wago junctions boxes to hide all my wiring connections
to be continued.......
If you ever though about getting into building your own led light, follow along....I took a bunch of photos as I put together a veg light for a 1x2' space with maybe 27" of height or so...this should cover it well...
Specs
21" Long x 5" wide by 2" high.....
2x Vero 10 5k @ 6-7watts each = 13 watt
5v fan power supply [5v x .5amps] = 2.5 watts
Roughly a 15w fixture, could almost cover 4 sq. ft.....@ 24-18"
It is about a 13w light...I am using a 280mA driver to run two cobs in a series.....I am still running over 40% efficiency direct to the canopy, that competes or beats out per watt ANY high end commercial light!
as you can see, if I was running @ 280ma I would be slightly below 42% efficiency and using almost 7 watts for each cob at about 140 lumens per watt....more important the PAR wattage
Par Wattage is [Efficiency % x Wattage]
Each Vero is [.42 x 6.39= 2.68 watts]
for comparison.......Consider a 26w 5k CFL is probably 15% efficiency so..[.15x26 = 3.9 par watts]
......but, a LED cobs emit light in a 120 degree + arc, downward from the light source...meaning very little light is lost like the omnidirectional light that emits from a cfl.....in the best mounting position for downard lighting, the cfl may only be delivering 50% of its PAR on its BEST day....meaning 1.95 par watts for every 26 watt CFL....
Also...the cfl is 65-70 lumens/per watt, while the LED is double that 140+ lumens per watt....
Build
LED drivers are almost always Constant Current...the exceptions are the RGB strip lights...
P Equation Watts = Volts x Amps [current]
Each Vero 10 is 25.57 volts @250 milliamps of current [25.7 x .25= 6.3925 watts]
- 2x Bridgelux Vero 10 5000k 80cri diodes [Led Cob aka chip on board]
- Molex wire adaptors [one for each cob]
- 25w LED Driver 110AC - 24-80volts DC @ 280mA [these will do up to 3x Vero 10's in a series..
1 heatsink I had laying around from LEDSupply [75 grams]...Another is an unknown that weighs 59grams and is using a recycled Playstation 2, 60mm 7v dc cooling fan...The other 50mm .125 12v fan was from a 400w inverter case....
Fan Power Supply: 5v 700ma AC/DC phone charger...Nokia
Rule of thumb: for every 25cm2 of heatsink using active cooling [fans] assume cooling for 1watt of led disapation....for passive cooling assume 75cm2 for every 1w.
The 3rd heatsink is also harvested from a Playstation 2 and was meant for a 3rd Vero led, but I decided to use it as a heat extractor for the driver....[these things can get hot and make your ambient temps [Ta] rise a little.....More so in much bigger builds, but still the concept remains...
Parts / Assembly
Really, I had everything left over from past builds or wrong orders....Wago wire connectors [224-412's] are a must.
Using Prolimatech PK1 paste to mount the cobs and a little laser thermal temperatur gauge is super handy for monitoring temps during the 1st testing...
Also had some left over driver cases that I made into Wago junctions boxes to hide all my wiring connections
to be continued.......
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