...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
PurpleBuz said:
That reflector is pretty cool, nice and simple to push the sideways light down, without trapping heat.
Think I might have to setup a metal workbench for stuff like that. all ya need is bend, cut, drill and screw.
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Thanks, yeah I tried to go for something simple that would work well. It was really simple to make.
 
bondoman said:
Here's my 3 x Vero 18 setup. The drivers support .7, 1.0, and 1.2 amps. At the full 1.2 and the fans on, the heatsinks just get very slightly warm. Total watts at .7 including fans is about 67 watts. Vero's are the 4000k. The old school type reflector seems to put the light exactly where I want it. Loving those wagos and these drivers, no soldering required.]
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Not sure why you used hood? can you comment thanks.
 
Hi guys. I appreciate all the compiled information! I'm back in the market for a light source and was wondering if this driver would be sufficient for 4x Vero 18 (80cri/3000k) in series. I've dabbled once upon a time in DIY, but it has been a while and would like to run my garbage by sharp minds. Thanks for taking a look and pushing the tech!
 
HiloReign said:
Hi guys. I appreciate all the compiled information! I'm back in the market for a light source and was wondering if this driver would be sufficient for 4x Vero 18 (80cri/3000k) in series. I've dabbled once upon a time in DIY, but it has been a while and would like to run my garbage by sharp minds. Thanks for taking a look and pushing the tech!
Click to expand...

That driver will work wonderfully for your 4x Vero 18's in series and if you ever feel like adding a 5th, it would most likely handle all five at ~1050mA. At the same current, my Vero 18's (80CRI/4000K) run around 28V each with ~85% efficient MeanWell drivers.
 
quik qustions for the experts here -

what is the recomended CCT for keeping mother plant with vero 10?

i am building a 30w light for mom, want to use 4 vero 10 driven at 300mA

i it's the 5000k, 80 or 70 cri ??

or is it better with the 4000k 80 cri?

thanks for all
 
Abiqua said:
^ The 5k has more blue and the 4k has a touch more red. Either are good options. Some are flowering with 4k.

I have a re-vegged mom popped under 5k. 80cri. Good stuff. Good luck :leaf:
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Thanks Abique!
and what is your opinion about 70 or 80 cri for the 5k?

the 80 cri at 350mA is 129 lm\w
the 70 cri at 350mA is 141 lm\w
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS30-Bridgelux-Vero-10-Datasheet.pdf

probably the 70 cri is more toward the blue, and more lm\w so wil it be better then the 80 cri?
 
kamikaza said:
Thanks Abique!
and what is your opinion about 70 or 80 cri for the 5k?

the 80 cri at 350mA is 129 lm\w
the 70 cri at 350mA is 141 lm\w
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS30-Bridgelux-Vero-10-Datasheet.pdf

probably the 70 cri is more toward the blue, and more lm\w so wil it be better then the 80 cri?
Click to expand...

I believe the 80 CRI to be the best option between all others. If I am incorrect in my assumption, please correct me with adequate data. While the lumen output is slightly higher with the 70 CRI, the 80 CRI is suppose to have a broader PAR spectrum, meaning higher peaks and counts of blues and reds. But go with your gut on this one.

Personally, I'd like to think a little mixture of 5000K and 4000K would do wonders, with 5000K being the dominant light source (like 3x 5kK and 2x 4kK). You can use the 4000K later on during flowering if you like, as it contains enough red to be considered a flowering light (I've been using the Vero 18 80 CRI 4000K throughout the flowering process, seems to hold up with the addition of the 240W BlackStar V2 Flower).
 
AquariusPanta said:
I believe the 80 CRI to be the best option between all others. If I am incorrect in my assumption, please correct me with adequate data. While the lumen output is slightly higher with the 70 CRI, the 80 CRI is suppose to have a broader PAR spectrum, meaning higher peaks and counts of blues and reds. But go with your gut on this one.

Personally, I'd like to think a little mixture of 5000K and 4000K would do wonders, with 5000K being the dominant light source (like 3x 5kK and 2x 4kK). You can use the 4000K later on during flowering if you like, as it contains enough red to be considered a flowering light (I've been using the Vero 18 80 CRI 4000K throughout the flowering process, seems to hold up with the addition of the 240W BlackStar V2 Flower).
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Thanks aquarius, i was wondering about that.

i don't tend to mix light colors, i think that more of a thinking for the 3 watt diods panel.

with so much COBs options there must be some "perfect" cct for each task.

this light is just a small one for veging mom, so i dont want to invest much in it.

but for production i do think of supplementing the COBs bar with some 3 watt red or blue diods.

let's say, if using veros at 3500k, supplement with some 660nm diods.

if using the veros at 3000 or 2700k, supplement with 450nm diods.
 
..."decoding" ..."0688014146"...:lol:

...Product Photos...

0688014146_sml.jpg


http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

http://rhu004.sma-promail.com/SQLImages/kelmscott/Molex/PDF_Images/987650-8361.PDF

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0688014146_CABLE_ASSEMBLIES.pdf ...Current - Maximum per Contact ...2,8 A... ...;-)...

Pd ...@uzerneims...
uzerneims said:
Thanks!
Somehow, i don't know how, but i red that 110V max, i will give only 39V.
So everything will be fine :)
Click to expand...

...maybe you read these in this datasheet or simliar...;)
...
Electrical
Voltage (Max.): 130V
Current (Max.): 2.8A
Contact Resistance: 20 milliohms
Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 500V AC
Insulation Resistance: 100 Megohms
...
http://www.literature.molex.com/SQLImages/kelmscott/Molex/PDF_Images/987650-8361.PDF

saludos
 
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salmonetin said:
..."decoding" ..."0688014146"...:lol:

...Product Photos...

0688014146_sml.jpg


http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

http://rhu004.sma-promail.com/SQLImages/kelmscott/Molex/PDF_Images/987650-8361.PDF

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0688014146_CABLE_ASSEMBLIES.pdf ...Current - Maximum per Contact ...2,8 A... ...;-)...

saludos
Click to expand...

Thanks!
Somehow, i don't know how, but i red that 110V max, i will give only 39V.
So everything will be fine :)
 
salmonetin said:
..."decoding" ..."0688014146"...:lol:

...maybe you read these in this datasheet or simliar...;)
...
Electrical
Voltage (Max.): 130V
Current (Max.): 2.8A
Contact Resistance: 20 milliohms
Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 500V AC
Insulation Resistance: 100 Megohms
...
http://www.literature.molex.com/SQLImages/kelmscott/Molex/PDF_Images/987650-8361.PDF

saludos
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The spec sheet says 130V but the website says 300V, I wonder what is up with that? It's a pretty big difference.

pico_ezmate.jpg​


Also I just noticed a new driver from Mean Well that will power the Vero29 @ 28-42V 2.9A (NPF-120-42), no one seems to stock them yet. There is also 25-42v 2.15A version (NPF-90-42) they would be good for larger setups I would think. They could also be used for driving low voltage parallel setups.

NPF-120-42
NPF-120D-42 (3-in-1 dimmable)
NPF-90-42
NPF-90D-42 (3-in-1 dimmable)
 
...thanks EF...300 v dc... its more ok to my pov... ...but 130 or 300... its too much for cobs... you can smell overvoltage.. or fill the wire ... hot and hot... with 28 awg i think her its safe for short / medium distances...

(only for conect cobs at drivers in dc side... ...not for ac side...)

pd... personally...i prefer wires with cooper core... i dont like aluminium core wires... in eu prefer cooper cores...
...and with this size of wire i prefer cooper core rigid... 0,75 - 1,5 mm cooper core rigid its my personal election for dc side... 1,5 - 2.5 mm cooper core semirigid for ac side... repeat its only my preferences...

pd ...on the sheet... http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

6) rated voltage: 300 v

saludos
 
Last edited:
Definitely only for wiring DRIVER to COB.

Dealer called me - diodes are in country, for really good price, avoiding fucking tax, and giving official dealer some percent interest for him personally, not for all company, somekind of Russian Bussiness, haha :)
But i got them cheaper as i would get them with official shipping + duties. Cool!
On monday will have them!
Next thing, must arrange old pc coolers.
And then order a pack of drivers for cobs and fans!

Aah, can't wait - VERO 29 - 3500k :))
GIMME YIELD, GIMME SMOKE
 
uzerneims said:
Definitely only for wiring DRIVER to COB.

Dealer called me - diodes are in country, for really good price, avoiding fucking tax, and giving official dealer some percent interest for him personally, not for all company, somekind of Russian Bussiness, haha :)
But i got them cheaper as i would get them with official shipping + duties. Cool!
On monday will have them!
Next thing, must arrange old pc coolers.
And then order a pack of drivers for cobs and fans!

Aah, can't wait - VERO 29 - 3500k :))
GIMME YIELD, GIMME SMOKE
Click to expand...

Those 3500K's should be 'the cat's meow'. I can't wait to see them in action!

salmonetin said:
pd... personally...i prefer wires with cooper core... i dont like aluminium core wires... in eu prefer cooper cores...
...and with this size of wire i prefer cooper core rigid... 0,75 - 1,5 mm cooper core rigid its my personal election for dc side... 1,5 - 2.5 mm cooper core semirigid for ac side... repeat its only my preferences...

pd ...on the sheet... http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/688014146_sd.pdf

6) rated voltage: 300 v

saludos
Click to expand...

I was reading something recently about using aluminum wires for electricity. The story basically condemned the use of both copper and aluminum wiring in households as it has something to do with the way aluminum and copper expand differently when heated. I think the problem has since been addressed but who knows, I'm certainly no trained electrician!
 
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