DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

[Abiqua]

Finally got a chance to test the first cheapo AC DC 12V adapter ($5). It is a 1 amp unit, very small and light 70 grams. It is adjustable from 11V to 15V. It is slightly more efficient at 15V than 11V.

.1A fan - 60-65% efficient (@ 11V anf 15V respectively)
.2A fan - 60-73% efficient
.3A fan - 78-82% efficient
.75A 3 fans - 78-84% efficient
.95A 4 fans - 79% efficient

View attachment 3012337 View attachment 3012340

Very nice! I was looking at one similar @FastT last night, the 12v 1A version is less than $10, great deal.

I have been looking at this one: $8

http://dx.com/p/24w-12v-2a-switching-power-supply-black-202885


Last but not least I am wanting to build a solid state power supply, but way out of my already limited technical range. Texas instruments though, makes an on board MOSFET power supply, low voltage. Couldn't dig out the link yet......

 

[SupraSPL]

I have both of the ones you mentioned on order, can't wait to test them. 11V is a bit too high and noisy for my needs (5V actually does the job). At 11V the fans keep my heatsinks only 1C above ambient (21C). I am guessing that at 7V they would be mostly silent and the heatsinks will be only 2C above ambient. I tried wiring the fans in series to see if I could get 7.5V but it didn't work with a pair of 140mm .3A fans (It did work with a .3A fan and a .2A fan in series).

What are you planning to use the solid sate power supply to power?

 

[Abiqua]

I have both of the ones you mentioned on order, can't wait to test them. 11V is a bit too high and noisy for my needs (5V actually does the job). At 11V the fans keep my heatsinks only 1C above ambient (21C). I am guessing that at 7V they would be mostly silent and the heatsinks will be only 2C above ambient. I tried wiring the fans in series to see if I could get 7.5V but it didn't work with a pair of 140mm .3A fans (It did work with a .3A fan and a .2A fan in series).

What are you planning to use the solid sate power supply to power?

• Here is another one @ allelectronics I found for $4

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-3512/40W-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html

Doesn't do 7v, but does do 3.3v@5a's, 5v @2.5a and [email protected]'s. Quirky, but for $4 might be worth messing around with.

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• I have no trouble running 2x 12omm [.4A] and a 90mm .25a on 5v's. 140mm in parallel is pushing it @ 7v's
• Want to use the solid state power supply for mainly just fans and any low voltage accessories to add. When you started talking efficiency, I remembered a mosfet controller I ran across that was both a buck and boost in one digital chip. I would like to test it for efficiency. My hunch is that they are more efficient than a transformer/rectifier switch.

 

[Mohican]

Are these what you are talking about when you say multichip led?





I have been getting updates from Mouser.com when they get new LEDs. Started looking into this when Guod and Stardust Sailor were posting DIY LED threads.


Very interesting stuff! Thanks SupraSPL!


Cheers,
Mo

 

[Abiqua]

What are you planning to use the solid sate power supply to power?

Thanks for mohican refreshing my memory with that Mouser Link, why can't we just build IC drivers for improved efficiency. This is where I got the idea from.
My low voltage learning curve is slow right now, please bear with me.

Pro's and con's of going with an IC driver, seems like there are way more options available with chips?........
http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Driver-ICs/LED-Lighting-Drivers/_/N-7zhqf/

 

[bicit]

Supra, or anyone really, can we get a closer look at your driver board? Is there a simple and clean looking way to distribute a single AC line to multiple drivers?

 

[SupraSPL]

Id love to see you guys build an IC driver. That is way over my head but if it can increase efficiency and give us more control that would be worth learning.

--------------------------------

bicit I am sure there is a cleaner way to do it, but my goal was for a low cost method that allows me to swap out drivers.

this board is good for 300W

this board is good for 600W

 

[MrFlux]

Power distribution is very simple (and safe............) with the Wago 222.

 

[SupraSPL]

Very cool and cheap on eBay

 

[Abiqua]

Are these what you are talking about when you say multichip led?





I have been getting updates from Mouser.com when they get new LEDs. Started looking into this when Guod and Stardust Sailor were posting DIY LED threads.


Very interesting stuff! Thanks SupraSPL!


Cheers,
Mo

Do you have the specific mouser link for this? Can't seem to find it, looks damn interesting though!

 

[Mohican]

Type horticulture in the search field and then click on the LED link.

 

[Mohican]

Did you find them?

 

[Abiqua]

Did you find them?

Yes! very interesting too, Illuminitex brand too.....haven't had a chance to read the datasheet...maybe this afternoon.

Cool find!

 

[SupraSPL]

I tested the 1.6A fasttech cheapo driver. Actual current was 1.3A and is regulated throughout its vF range which is 19-36vF. Efficiency was 90-91.5%. If you go under 19vf it will flash, if you go over 36.5Vf, the current drops off to nothing very quickly.

Unfortunately these are not guaranteed to work with the CXA3050, CXA3070 or Vero 29 but it would work for the Vero18. I was able to get it to work on my CXA3070 at 36.57vF, but if there is any variation in the vF of the COB or in the driver itself the current could be drastically reduced.

 

[RedCarpetMatches]

Going to have to read through this thread. Handy Mandy bout to andale some shit up.

EDIT: Has anyone tried UV diodes? Must in my book. Also, aren't 3w diodes more cost efficient?

 

[WDIK]

Doing a test run with a Vero 18 powered by a Mean Well APC-35-1050 cooled by an Arctic CPU fan running at 12v and heatsink. Ambient temp is 71F. After 15 minutes heatsink temp is 73F. Going to run it for an hour.

Fricken thing is bright. I about burned out my retinas.

ETA: Kill-A-Watt showing it's running at 36 watts and .5 Amps.

 

[WDIK]

Well that was uneventful. Infrared thermometer showed heatsink temp at 73F the whole time. I drilled and tapped the heatsink and have the COB screwed on with thermal compound in between.

 

[SupraSPL]

Awesome results! Your Tj should be well under 50C. You could reduce your fan speed if you want to quiet it down and increase efficiency.

 

[FranJan]

Great job Supra, here have some fun with this.



8 x F3 Illumitex @ 580mA, (using 1 NL100W-HV700 driver, 80 to 130 volts, 90 watts max), mounted in an old BS240. Using the BS's screw holes and IDC connections with 10 AWG solid wire, (no solder kiddies!!!), mounted on a .002mm graphite sheet and cooled actively, (3 fans, using a .9amp/12 volt/10 watt max driver), with individual heatsinks behind each Surexi. Tj? Whatever. Been running for 2 days now and heat is minimal. +2° F to the tent.

Not exactly Supra style,(600mA max and 11 volts max volts on F3s), but the light of the Gods is pouring out of them so.........

Oh and for all you Chinese panel lovers out there, here are the guys who make what seems to be 99% of the drivers found in budget units. Good link to have.
http://www.nldriver.com/product/product_3_71_1.html

 

[SupraSPL]

Very interesting setup FJ. I have not studied the Illumitex. I like the 50 degree beam angle, no lenses required. They make it easy to determine radiometric efficiency. The F3 is 30% efficient at 500mA.

Cool link I will have to study up on their drivers.