SST (sprouted seed tea) do's and donts?

[Tjingles]

Okay so I'm starting this thread in hopes of expanding knowledge of SST. As of now I don know to much but am learning more every day.

I know after the initial soak to remove growth suppressors you should soak seeds in a coconut/ fulvic acid solution as this increases enzyme activity exponentially.

That is unfortunatly the extent of my sst knowledge. However I hope this thread will be helpfull for myself and many others. I will be posting new things I learn about the benefits of sst and ss in general.

A quastion I would like to start off with for anyone feeling kind enough sto answer is:
I have 1/2-1/2 alfalfa and barley bubbling in a quart mason jar for tomorrows watering. I also have an aact brewing with wmc and alaska hummus. CAN I add my ss brew to my aact with out negatively affecting the enzymes I waited patentially to form? This watering is in the morning so any opinions or facts are greatly appreciated.

I do hope we can all learn and grow togeather and hopefully this thread will blow uo and help a lot of people


Jingles,

 

[st0wandgrow]

A SST and an ACT together are fine. SST's provide enzymes (proteins) which are not a living organism and not a food stock for microbes afaik. The act will inoculate your soil with microbes and fungi (dependent on food stock and length of brew).

I'm curious as to what other people are doing with sst's. I have been doing a 12 hour soak, dumping that water, then aerating/soaking for an additional 36-48 hours..... Or until I get a 1/4+ inch sprout then just applying the water sans the sprouts. I'd like to hear what others are doing. Specifically soak/bubble duration, and if you're blending up the sprouts before applying (if so, why?).

Good thread!

 

[Tjingles]

A SST and an ACT together are fine. SST's provide enzymes (proteins) which are not a living organism and not a food stock for microbes afaik. The act will inoculate your soil with microbes and fungi (dependent on food stock and length of brew).

I'm curious as to what other people are doing with sst's. I have been doing a 12 hour soak, dumping that water, then aerating/soaking for an additional 36-48 hours..... Or until I get a 1/4+ inch sprout then just applying the water sans the sprouts. I'd like to hear what others are doing. Specifically soak/bubble duration, and if you're blending up the sprouts before applying (if so, why?).

Good thread!

awesome, I was really hoping to hear that. I've done a few sst's now. Just like you I do the initial soak. My second soak has freeze dried coco water from navitas and maybe a drop of aloe(not sure why but it can't hurt) and maybe some fulvic. My first time I blended them up as soon as they had a small tail. This time I'm bubbling them in a jar with water. Water is nice and milkyish so I'm guessing its a solid brew. I plan on grinding up the sprouts and using them either in my Bokashi or mixing them into my soil recycle bag...I hear the physical seed particles can be fairly hot so I don't want them directly in my soil unless they've decomposed a little. I feel a 36hr act will have all the nutes necessary so any npk from the seeds can just be applied some where else.

something I do with my act's that I find definitely note worthy is: I take about equal portions of Wmc and some other compost. Mix 1 tbsp of earth syrup biodynamic microbe food,1/2 tsp kelp and 1 tbsp home made lacto bacilli serum. Mix it all up and let sit in a warm place overnight. It reallyyy gets the microbes going . Sometimes you'll see a bit of a web start to form. I just feel the end result brew has a much higher microbe count/diversity. I guess it's almost like youre activating everything. Really big deff. I'd deff try it out


Personally I won't be grinding up my seeds for direct plant application.unless fermenting.

which seeds have you had best results with? My line up consists of barley, alfalfa, and wheatgrass..
havn't actually herd off wheatgrass being used but It's so beneficial in so many ways I don't see how it cannot be useful. I will check the composition of them and post later

 

[st0wandgrow]

I've only ever used barley, alfalfa, and chia seeds. The chia seeds were a bit of a pain in the nut-sack. They sprout, but turn in to a jellied mess almost like tapioca balls. I do believe the wheatgrass will be great. According to another grower who is very knowledgeable on the topic grass seeds are excellent to use.

 

[Dr.J20]

sub'd definitely want to hear thoughts on wheatgrass since i grow pallets of it and always have a ton of wheatberries on hand for that purpose!

 

[mrwood]

I'm curious as to what other people are doing with sst's. I have been doing a 12 hour soak, dumping that water, then aerating/soaking for an additional 36-48 hours..... Or until I get a 1/4+ inch sprout then just applying the water sans the sprouts. I'd like to hear what others are doing. Specifically soak/bubble duration, and if you're blending up the sprouts before applying (if so, why?).

I make the v2 barley SST, following the receipe below:

Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.

This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:

Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.

Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.

Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too likely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.

Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.

Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.

Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.

Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.

This is definitely the way to use Barley and other seeds...

I do weigh our 56 g of seeds, but do not weight anymore after first or second soak. I have found over time that I get 84+ grams after two soaks.
I do puree the seeds/sprouts, because the receipe says so and it seems to make sense to use the whole mix. Takes me ~48 hours start to finish.

 

[hyroot]

^^^^^^^^ i do the same . I use mung beans. Unhulled barley seeds are hard to find in my area. I made an sst tutorail on you tube a while ago.. keep in mind i was super tired at each take . So my vocabulary is kind of off.


[video=youtube_share;gBY0ou2cyJQ]http://youtu.be/gBY0ou2cyJQ[/video]

 

[st0wandgrow]

Groovy. So just to be clear, you guys aren't aerating the water whilst soaking the seeds?

Hy, I'm gonna check out the video tmrw. I'm on my phone and it's taking forever to load

 

[hyroot]

Groovy. So just to be clear, you guys aren't aerating the water whilst soaking the seeds?

Hy, I'm gonna check out the video tmrw. I'm on my phone and it's taking forever to load

its too much of a pain in the ass. I didn't see any difference in results.. I do aerate once I add pureed seeds / beans to water. Only for 20 min. it foams up tough, overflowing right away.

 

[Tjingles]

Okay so here is a clip that I found with the breakdown composition of wheatgrass. It has almost the full B vitamin spectrum. Which to me means it will have stress releaving properties. Direct substitute to superthrive or any other B product.

Also vitamin E will help with drought resistance, vitamin C as well....probably a great high temp summer application.

There are a lot of minerals and enzymes that I havn't checked into yet for garden application but so far it looks like I will need to be sprouting wheatgrass weekly



The composition of Wheatgrass Juice
Wheatgrass juice is a pure, natural source of a broad spectrum of essential nutrients.These include vitamins, minerals, chlorophyll, antioxidants, amino acids and enzymes.


In laboratory test one isolated more than 1000 elements found in wheatgrass, which leads to the conclusion that wheatgrass juice is a full nutrition-power source.


Wheatgrass juice is called "the world's most concentrated liquid food". The juice of wheatgrass contains such high doses of natural vitamin E (more than for example in spinach and lettuce) and consists for 21% of amino acids, the building blocks of high-quality protein.


The Japanese researcher Hagiwara Yoshide has examined two hundred plants for their levels of vitamins, minerals, proteins and enzymes and concluded that wheatgrass juice is one of the richest sources of these nutrients. It also contains the enzyme PD41, which would prove good service in repairing damaged genetic material by X-rays. Also, the enzyme superoxide dismutase (SOD) has been found in wheatgrass juice. This enzyme is found in all body cells. It is assumed that it has anti-inflammatory properties, may help slow down the aging process and may decrease the effects of radiation.


Which nutrients does wheatgrass juice contain?


Vitamins in wheatgrass juice


Beta-carotene, vitamin C and vitamin E are also important antioxidants.


Pro-vitamin A(beta-carotene) for growth, tissue repair, eyesight and immune system


Vitamin B1 (thiamine) for combustion of carbohydrates and functioning of heart, nerves and skeletal muscles.


Vitamin B2 (riboflavine) for production of energy and activating of vitamin B6.


Vitamin B3 (niacin) assists in the energy production, and promotes the action of the nervous system


Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) for the metabolism of proteins, carbohydrates and fats and production of hormones.


Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) for a healthy digestion, a strong immune system, the production of red blood cells and a proper functioning of the nervous system.


Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) for a good resistance, strong bones, protect against free radicals and iron absorption.


Vitamin E (tocopherol) for resistance, production of red blood cells, protecting against free radicals and maintain healthy muscles and tissues.


Vitamin K for blood clotting and bone metabolism.





Minerals in wheatgrass juice


Magnesium, potassium and calcium give wheatgrass juice ist highly alkalizing (= alkalising) operation.


Calcium for strong teeth, bones and joints, blood clotting, muscle contraction and proper functioning of the nervous system.


Phosphorus for strong bones and teeth, the structure of DNA cells, a healthy metabolism and energy supply.


Iron for the transportation of oxygen to body cells.


Potassium for a healthy nervous system, regulating blood pressure, muscle contraction and energy metabolism.


Cobalt for the production of vitamin B12 and red blood cells.


Copper makes it possible that iron absorbs oxygen and is required for pigment formation in skin and hair.


Magnesium for strong bones, creation and proper functioning of muscle cells, metabolism and the transmission of nerve impulses.


Manganese for the production of bone tissue and the metabolism of carbohydrates, amino acids and cholesterol


Selenium neutralizes harmful free radicals and detoxifies heavy metals in the body..


Sulfur for the formation of collagen, the absorption of moisture in the intestines and regulate electrical activity in the brains.


And further it has also:


Natrium
Zink
Borium
Chroom
Jodium
Nikkel
Enzymes in wheatgrass juice
Cytochrome oxidase, catalase, and peroxidase are found in high concentrations in wheatgrass juice and are also found in human red and white blood cells.


cytochrome oxidase (role in cell respiration)
lipase (fat splitting)
protease (proteolysis)
amylase (starch splitting)
catalase (hydrogen-split)
peroxidase
transhydrogenase
superoxide-dismutase (SOD; 'anti-aging-enzyme')
Amino acids in wheatgrass juice


Wheatgrass juice contains the 8 essential amino acids (lysine, isoleucine, leucine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, threonine, valine and methionine) and 9 non-essential amino acids (alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, proline, serine, tyrosine)


In addition, wheatgrass juice contains P4D1, a glycoprotein that stimulates the production and natural recovery of human germ cells and DNA.

 

[Dr.J20]

thanks for the vid. hyroot! I'm definitely doing this with wheatgrass--my way of sprouting is a bit more streamlined: mason jar, square piece of non-reactive screen. 1/3C wheatberries in mason jar, soaked 12hrs in aerated water. drain water, rinse wheat berries, screw on lid with screen instead of the solid cover, turn upside down to drain for another 12 hours. they should be sprouted at the end of that 12 hrs and can either be planted for wheatgrass, or, apparently blended and aerated for SST. That's what's up!
be easy homies,

 

[Dr.J20]

So i've been looking across the interwebs etc. to find out more information about seed enzyme teas and their applications in gardening and can really only find things on fora like RIU, specific to cannabis that is. is there another name for this kind of application of sprouted seed enzymes? Also, i'm going ahead with my wheatgrass experimentation, but, it seems as though barley is the preferred grain for sprouting; I know everyone says "well really any seed should work" and i know Hy uses mung beans, and i've heard of some folks using alfalfa seed, and corn, but why is it 9/10 barley?
anywho, just got my gals with a foliar and soil drench of aloe at 2tbsp juice/gal h20. hope they're praying but temps are going to be cold again this week.
any thoughts on any of this would be welcome!
be easy,

 

[Dr.J20]

So i read the post over in ROLS on the version 2 SST that Cann posted, the one from coot explaining the science behind all of this; I'm gathering that the method of sprouting is, indeed, important since the specific goal of maximizing enzyme production is different than sprouting to grow grasses.
Am I correct in this deduction?
And, if so, my questions about the specificities of grain/seed choice expand to ask whether the same process used for barley would be used for all seed/grain choices, because, as I've posted earlier, I can sprout wheatgrass with just repeated rinsings after an initial 12 hour soak; indeed, this is how i do all of my sprouts for my own consumption or to grow grass from. I'd imagine everyone saying the choice is largely non-specific means enzyme maximization can be achieved with the SST V.2.0 recipe best, regardless of grain/seed selection. So i'll sprout my alfalfa the way St0w was saying (soak, rinse, bubble in water for 48hrs/until sprout is as long as seed) because it's already going, and then switch on over to version 2.0;
sound good to the sst'ers?

 

[st0wandgrow]

So i read the post over in ROLS on the version 2 SST that Cann posted, the one from coot explaining the science behind all of this; I'm gathering that the method of sprouting is, indeed, important since the specific goal of maximizing enzyme production is different than sprouting to grow grasses.
Am I correct in this deduction?
And, if so, my questions about the specificities of grain/seed choice expand to ask whether the same process used for barley would be used for all seed/grain choices, because, as I've posted earlier, I can sprout wheatgrass with just repeated rinsings after an initial 12 hour soak; indeed, this is how i do all of my sprouts for my own consumption or to grow grass from. I'd imagine everyone saying the choice is largely non-specific means enzyme maximization can be achieved with the SST V.2.0 recipe best, regardless of grain/seed selection. So i'll sprout my alfalfa the way St0w was saying (soak, rinse, bubble in water for 48hrs/until sprout is as long as seed) because it's already going, and then switch on over to version 2.0;
sound good to the sst'ers?

I'm gonna try my hand at the V.2.0 as well. I wish there was a way to measure enzyme production because the V.2.0 seems more time consuming/complicated. Time to step back outside my comfort zone again I guess... or maybe I'll just look for your updates over the next few days and see if you think that the juice was worth the squeeze.

 

[mrwood]

v2 is not hard, but does take me ~48 hours. weigh, soak, rest, soak, rest/grow, puree.

 

[Dr.J20]

i'm going to be running tests on wheatgrass alongside barley both sprouting V.1 and V.2 but i'll be doing them on garden veggies--i'll probably just keep track of it and then throw a thread in the gardening section detailing it. I will also be testing russian kvas/kwas tea on my raised bed. I will probably do my kerala x skunk 1 with the wheatgrass sprouted using the V.2 method and compare it to the power flower done with the barley and see if there's any difference. my internodal spacing is already pretty tight (i'm thinking because of the zoomed florasuns i'm using as side lighting) so I'm kind of reluctant to use the alfalfa tea i've got going in a v.1 brew. Anywho, I will be doing 3 hawaiian skunk x haze next go around so i can do a tiny test with wheatgrass, barley, and none all on the same genetics to get a little better read on things. Anywho, if my hot peppers and tomatoes end up liking these things, then i'll certainly give a try on the meds.

well, that's a long and indirect, roundabout way of saying my updates probably won't be happening until well into May! but I'll certainly document it!
be easy,

 

[hyroot]

I've been doing v2 for a long time. My video tutorial is for v2. Sst. I much prefer it. I reposted headtreeps and canns posts for directions on v2 sst in my thread, page 1

 

[Dr.J20]

Any developments in SST? i've been adding kvass to my compost and my hot pepper beds and they are rich and delicious smelling. I love the simplicity of the kvass FPE process too; just make up some kvass, wait 3 days, add your plant to be fermented (i'm using some kelp meal and banana peel in the two i've got going today) for another 7 days, then use in dilution of around 1:8. Works pretty well for me!
As for SSTs, I've had several timing issues where I've planned out the 48 hours and the seeds sprout faster than I expected, or plants need water sooner than seeds have sprouted etc.

So, what about this tip I got: Start up seeds on a set day every week. as soon as seeds start sprouting, put them in the fridge to slow down their sprouting. you can pull some out the night before your plants will need watering to make sure they are sprouted enough for blending, bubbling, and using. The only problem I can see with this is that it just prolongs the length of time you are sprouting. so if the general trend is that the plant drinks more with age, you will need waterings closer together as harvest approaches. prolonging the sprout time seems more advantageous in the vegetative stages. in flowering, wouldn't you want to just start up seeds every time you water so that if your plants need another drink on day 3, you'll actually have some seeds ready to blend? seems to me the solution is to make up your mind to water with them every time and if turns out you don't want to that week, you just throw 'em to the worms/garden/compost, no?

for seeds sprouting earlier than expected, is it such a big deal to use them with sprout tails longer than the 1" recommendation?

 

[st0wandgrow]

Any developments in SST? i've been adding kvass to my compost and my hot pepper beds and they are rich and delicious smelling. I love the simplicity of the kvass FPE process too; just make up some kvass, wait 3 days, add your plant to be fermented (i'm using some kelp meal and banana peel in the two i've got going today) for another 7 days, then use in dilution of around 1:8. Works pretty well for me!
As for SSTs, I've had several timing issues where I've planned out the 48 hours and the seeds sprout faster than I expected, or plants need water sooner than seeds have sprouted etc.

So, what about this tip I got: Start up seeds on a set day every week. as soon as seeds start sprouting, put them in the fridge to slow down their sprouting. you can pull some out the night before your plants will need watering to make sure they are sprouted enough for blending, bubbling, and using. The only problem I can see with this is that it just prolongs the length of time you are sprouting. so if the general trend is that the plant drinks more with age, you will need waterings closer together as harvest approaches. prolonging the sprout time seems more advantageous in the vegetative stages. in flowering, wouldn't you want to just start up seeds every time you water so that if your plants need another drink on day 3, you'll actually have some seeds ready to blend? seems to me the solution is to make up your mind to water with them every time and if turns out you don't want to that week, you just throw 'em to the worms/garden/compost, no?

for seeds sprouting earlier than expected, is it such a big deal to use them with sprout tails longer than the 1" recommendation?

Or, you could just make the SST's and put them in ice cube trays in the freezer, then thaw and use as needed.

 

[DANKSWAG]

Hey guys,

Any suggestions on storing and keep nettle leaves for future use....

I have a ton of them everywhere I look and I want to harvest as much as I can and keep them.

Best ways to preserve store nettle leaf?
Can it be effective as a bio stimulate in tea for plants once preserve or store.

I may enough where I can market excess for resell to local organic restaurants but they are bought in season while fresh to cook with.

Ideas, thoughts suggestions?

DankSwag