TALES OF THE GREAT BATTLE OF PM

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I have been dealing with pm in my garden since November 2017. I have a 3K bloom room with 48 plants on perpetual, and a 1k veg room with also around 48 plants and moms in various stages. The internet and this community has been my only source for information and support and I am grateful for it, but many of the suggestions, opinions, experiences of others I have found to be simply not true. Believing in the community I have followed the advice, spending much time, money, and loss of crops. This thread is a complete report of all the steps I have taken in the past, and continue to take in the future, until the powdery mildew is not existing in my grow, or I stop growing by the end of this year. It is a place for me to vent, but also if someone else finds this, hopefully they don't go through what I have in the last 8 months and counting. I think for something that is so devastaing and severe there seems to be not a lot of post and threads about peoples experience. Sure you find people asking for advice, and then people giving it, but there is not summary to the event. How are we supposed to learn anything!

The reason why some solutions don't work for everyone else is the environment and growing style is different. There are different species of PM that behave differently. Not everyone understands the full life cycle of PM (I don't either fully, but more than most I would safely say), so based on your growing style/environement you where lucky enough to possible break the cycle of spore reproduction.

It showed up after growing for 1 year already, I had never taken in clones and started everything from seed. I had 4 strains I was working with at this point and had run 4 other strains previously when I didn't have pm yet. Throughout this time I had many many unhealthy plants as I was a newbie making all the major mistakes.
When I noticed it on one plant my environment RH was in the 60s at night as it is winter here and -30C outside some days, and I don't have any exterior venting so I recirculate all exhaust air throughout my house. The plant that got it first was not very healthy was in the corner possibly not getting a lot of direct airflow and the lights off temp was in the 60's RH and 55-65F.

For suggested solutions It can be broken down into several areas:

Various Sprays for Control only
Environmental - Airflow, RH, Temperatures of lights on/off cycle Light
Healthy plants with good immune systems
Regular Sulfur burns
Killing PM within the plant with Eagle20 or MELTATOX


Heres a timeline of what I have gone through

***Sprays of Bakin soda,Vinegar,Milk
This made the flowers look very ugly and smell really bad and it didn't stop it for very long

***Defoliate/ Lollipop
Removed up to 2/3 of lower part of plants in some cases. Removed all fan leaves leaving only 3-4 colas. This stunted the plant and it ended up not doing anything for the last 5 weeks of flowering. Still got pm

***Increased airflow
I got 2 Hurricane wall mount oscillating fans on each end turned on max setting.I have PM on areas that are right in front of the fan getting hit with literally a hurricane of wind nonstop, I actually think this amount of wind is causing stress

*** Greencure Spray

This was the best performing spray and I was able to dilute it at 10 ml per gallon without burning the pistils anymore I would notice it come back 4-5 days later. This is not a long term solution for 48 plants for someone that has a disability. It is hard for me to walk, I can't spray plants in the bloom room as its finished hard wood flooring, so I need to take each plant into the bathroom bathub, spray down top to bottom, let it dry and bring it back in. Even when I sprayed plants every week on a regular basis, or as it showed up, I found that plants will have PM on the inside of the buds on all the little sugar leaves that are tucked away. So even if it looks like things are going will and you notice no pm on big fan leaves or outside leaves once you harvest and break open the colas you will find pm tucked away.

***Increase plant space & Light per plant
Reduced amount of plants from 4 by 4 per 1K light to 3 by 3 to increase airflow around plants, not have them touching so much and give maximum light. I still have PM on areas that are 20" from a 1000W HPS


***Lowered RH
This is what was most commonly suggested as an environmental solution. After having had 35-45% RH over the last 2 months I can say that this has not stopped the PM strain that I have) It is spreading just as fierce as when RH was 50-70!


***Eliminated Lights on/off Temp drop.

This summer I was hoping I would remove pm because of the RH and temp, as I have my lights on at 10 PM, so it is around 80F during the day when the lights are off, and then 80F at night, pulling in cool air from the open window. So there is literally no RH or Temp drop between light on off cycles. Unfortunately the PM is as strong as ever


***Grown different Strains
one strain has been 100% immune to pm - Critcal Cheese - very sativa, ofcourse those cuttings had to die on me! Others are fairly resiliant, where it can show up on a few lower leaves but once they are removed it doesn't continue to spread to the top parts.

Agent orange - all 4 phenos are prone
Headbanger - 1/4 phenos is almost immune, 1/4 is somewhat resilient, 2/4 are magnets - I had to toss the whole plant
Scotts og 3/3 are magnets
SSDD 2/3 is a magnet, 1/3 is somewhat resilient

***EAGLE 20
So this is a highly debated product due to the unknown side effects of myclobutanil. But it was touted as the final and ultimate destruction of PM. It is stated that if used 9 weeks prior to harvest, it has not shown up in tested samples. The halflife is also stated as 4 or so weeks, so that would make sense. But again, Im not saying anything, other than that people said it cured their PM once and for all.
I diluted at 2.5ml per gallon, and dunked plants 100% underwater in a bucket for 30 seconds on DAY 1 of bloom. I have seen pm on these exact plants in as little as 3 weeks later. Since then I have continued to do side by side tests with single plants treated with Eagle20, and they all had pm in the end. I do think the pm was removed, but after 3 weeks the eagle20 was not in plant anymore in high enough concentration and it got re infected. Also for anyone that has negative comments and wants to ridicule me, remember, that by people being able to openly have a discussion about these products we can get to the truth, so that someone else might not resort to these products if he sees that it is not effective in all cases, I only followed the advice of the community that got me to eagle 20.


***Healthy plants

Have read this a lot, that healthy plants with a good immune system can fight it off. So I switched from pro mix, pure blend pro, to a organic living soil, with weekly compost teas and really tried to grow healthy plants. I just completed this step and had 4 plants on day 21, that were very healthy, and they all have pm. Silicate is also a recommended product for strengthening the plant cell walls and that has been in my resevoir for all plants still receiving pure blend pro nutrients. Healthy plants may make a difference if they havent been infected yet possibly, but if the mom had pm and its already inside the clones, then it is my experience that the health or state of a plant will not make a difference.

A lot of you will read what Ive been through and say, the only way to get rid of it is to kill all your plants, shut down your grow, sulfur burn, take all equipment apart bleach everything in the room, fans, filters,walls floors, ballasts,bulbs,pots,watering containers, throw out all your soil. Then start fresh with seeds.

Several reasons I have not done that yet:

1. I was following all the other advice first to see if I can manage the PM and even live with it to some degree and keep it in check.

2. These PM spores are everywhere in the trillions, they go 1/4 inch into all surface pores like drywall, carpets, wood. Even if I was able to clean and disinfect 95% of all surfaces in the room. Whats 5% of a trillion spores? exactly. Because the exhaust air from the veg and bloom room also circulate throughout the house my whole house has pm spores.

3. I started from seed originally, so this wasn't brought in through clone stock. It was simply in my home. I don't have AC so my windows and doors are open to let a breeze through the house in summer. Thats not something that I can change so even if I removed every trace and was succesful there is no guarantee for how long until this happened again.

4. I have spent the last year building up my organic living soil with my own compost and EWC, and $1000 of amendments, to only throw it out and get PRo mix and pure blend pro?

5. I have spent a year just to grow out these 4 strains, get females, flower them out, and keep moms of my favourite phenotypes. Im not a big shot grower who has access to hundreds of breeder packs or buddies who can give him the top 10 cuts circulating. I spent all my savings on these packs with the intention of finding a keeper and running it for years until I was bored with it. I haven't had 1 solid run with any of them yet really.

6. Ive had quite the challenge trying to grow for the last 2 years almost, and with my disabily and no income this hobby is becoming very hard to continue. If I was going to kill everything and start over I would probably just completely stop for the time being.


Sulfur burning is not a permanent solution from what I have read. It has to be done every week or two, and if you do it past week 4 in bloom the flower will taste like it.


20180609_215403.jpg
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
Conclusion

I will continue to try these methods of healthy plants and see if the summer RH / temperature changes anything, I also have new genetics in the pipeline so I will flower just 1 phenotype to see how it holds up to the PM. No more putting 16 plants of 1 pheno into flower just to have it all covered in pm.

Once I have flowered all the seedlings I currently have I will stop bloom room until its empty.
Then I will:

Raise temps to 100F+ for 3 hours(supposedly kills spore)
Bleach whole bloom & veg room and equipment
sulfur burn once per week in veg and bloom room
Every Week dunk all moms in Meltatox & Eagle 20 (seperately 4 days apart)

If I do this for a whole month, The idea is that the meltatox/eagle 20 will cure the plants from pm, and that the cleaning/heat/sulfur will kill all spores on contact for that whole month. By the end of the month the life cycle of the pm and the spores will be broken and I can start vegging and taking clones again.


A lot of advice given is for prevention, and completely useless to deal with pm outbreak.

My thought is that yes there are always some spores floating around naturally from outside and plants can defend against these attacks every so often. That's why I had no issues for a whole year. But once the spores are reproduced in the grow room and are in the trillions, plants can't defend against those repeated attacks.

If you have something meaningful to contribute please do. I would like to read more successful and unsuccessful experiences from people so that we can learn from them. If you have any podcasts or academic trials/ studies, or pm specialist articles in the mater that material will help me and everyone else learn more about the life cycle of pm.
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
sounds like u need to burn the place down!! your house must be molded up somewhere fresh air and low rh r the cure for pm,it keeps coming back on u must be breeding it close by
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
sounds like u need to burn the place down!! your house must be molded up somewhere fresh air and low rh r the cure for pm,it keeps coming back on u must be breeding it close by
Im not breeding it close by, Im breeding it in my house with my plants. As I am growing perpetually and all my plants are infected. It will not show in VEG, but at Week 3 of bloom the pm will become visible. The whole point of the post was just to share that I have followed this advice and its not effective. Advice such as "fresh air and low rh r the cure for pm"! RH is at 30-40% I have the window open and fresh air direct from outside is brought in. I have a 242Watt 1100 CFM Vortex that has insane negative air pressure in the room. I think I have the airflow/rh thing down. Whats next!
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Im not breeding it close by, Im breeding it in my house with my plants. As I am growing perpetually and all my plants are infected. It will not show in VEG, but at Week 3 of bloom the pm will become visible. The whole point of the post was just to share that I have followed this advice and its not effective. Advice such as "fresh air and low rh r the cure for pm"! RH is at 30-40% I have the window open and fresh air direct from outside is brought in. I have a 242Watt 1100 CFM Vortex that has insane negative air pressure in the room. I think I have the airflow/rh thing down. Whats next!
I have to say man. Thumper is right.

PM loves my local climate. Low humidity, and fresh air, is most definitely the way to beat it.
You have to break its life cycle.

PM needs moisture to germinate, and grow.
It also needs to dry, so it can spread its spores.
A single spore just needs to germinate, and it'll develop very quickly.
Are you growing in a dark, cool basement? Or somewhere similar.
It could well be, that the mold is drying after harvest. Spores are blowing around during veg. Then higher humidity, and thicker foliage during flower, is causing spores to germinate?
This would explain, why you say its localized to you flower cycle.

Im afraid there isnt an easy way around it. Besides fresh air, and low humidity. Good air movement too. So there isnt any stagnant air.
Watch your temps too. Especially during lights off.
PM favours cooler temperatures.
I wouldnt let your temps dip below 20'C.

Trust me when i say, there is heaps of PM where i live outdoors. Its the most common disease here.
Ive been growing indoor for 3 years now. I havnt once had pm indoors. Simply because theres plenty of air replenishment, and the humidity doesnt often get above 50%

Good luck OP.

:peace:
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I have to say man. Thumper is right.

PM loves my local climate. Low humidity, and fresh air, is most definitely the way to beat it.
You have to break its life cycle.

PM needs moisture to germinate, and grow.
It also needs to dry, so it can spread its spores.
A single spore just needs to germinate, and it'll develop very quickly.
Are you growing in a dark, cool basement? Or somewhere similar.
It could well be, that the mold is drying after harvest. Spores are blowing around during veg. Then higher humidity, and thicker foliage during flower, is causing spores to germinate?
This would explain, why you say its localized to you flower cycle.

Im afraid there isnt an easy way around it. Besides fresh air, and low humidity. Good air movement too. So there isnt any stagnant air.
Watch your temps too. Especially during lights off.
PM favours cooler temperatures.
I wouldnt let your temps dip below 20'C.

Trust me when i say, there is heaps of PM where i live outdoors. Its the most common disease here.
Ive been growing indoor for 3 years now. I havnt once had pm indoors. Simply because theres plenty of air replenishment, and the humidity doesnt often get above 50%

Good luck OP.

:peace:
I am growing in the mainfloor of house. There is a really big window open in the bloom room, and I have a 10" 1100 CFM Vortex S line Fan running at 220 watts moving air creating massive negative air pressure exhausting out of the room. Plus my 2 16" Hurricane wall mount fans circulating. THERE IS A TONNE OF AIR MOVEMENT. A TONNE. A SHIT TONNE. Because I run the lights at night I am getting 27C during lights off when its hot during the day, and with my 3K HPS lights I have 27-30C during lights on. Slightly cooler when its not so hot, but as example the last 2 days thats what its been. Point is day and night temps within the same high temp range of 25-30C RH is LOW at 35-45 RH - Day and Night.

You are on to something with germination, but I have read that 40% or higher is all they need. And dry humidity encourages actual growth of the mycelium and hyphae.
I think it is somewhat common knowledge that PM shows up during Flowering a few weeks after flip, and almost rarely shows up during Veg. But yes its safe to say that there are spores everywhere.

I hope with my post I can reach some people that had a full on infestation, and are either able to keep it in control easily (on a scale larger than 2 plants in a closet), or that were able to cure the plants 100% systemically and have followed an ipm and have been free and clear 100%.


Also PM is host specific and there are many different sub species so if you see it outside on a raspberry plant, that most likely will not jump to your cannabis.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Uv light helps as well.

As to the eagle 20. The side effects are known. It has a long half life and will be in the final product. It creates hydrogen cyanide when burned.

If growing that much you are supplying others and shouldn't use eagle 20. Period.

It sucks but your only option may be to just cut everything and start over. I know that sucks but it's better than poisoning people with chemicals.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
I am growing in the mainfloor of house. There is a really big window open in the bloom room, and I have a 10" 1100 CFM Vortex S line Fan running at 220 watts moving air creating massive negative air pressure exhausting out of the room. Plus my 2 16" Hurricane wall mount fans circulating. THERE IS A TONNE OF AIR MOVEMENT. A TONNE. A SHIT TONNE. Because I run the lights at night I am getting 27C during lights off when its hot during the day, and with my 3K HPS lights I have 27-30C during lights on. Slightly cooler when its not so hot, but as example the last 2 days thats what its been. Point is day and night temps within the same high temp range of 25-30C RH is LOW at 35-45 RH - Day and Night.

You are on to something with germination, but I have read that 40% or higher is all they need. And dry humidity encourages actual growth of the mycelium and hyphae.
I think it is somewhat common knowledge that PM shows up during Flowering a few weeks after flip, and almost rarely shows up during Veg. But yes its safe to say that there are spores everywhere.

I hope with my post I can reach some people that had a full on infestation, and are either able to keep it in control easily (on a scale larger than 2 plants in a closet), or that were able to cure the plants 100% systemically and have followed an ipm and have been free and clear 100%.


Also PM is host specific and there are many different sub species so if you see it outside on a raspberry plant, that most likely will not jump to your cannabis.
It is my advice.

PM LOVES Rosales. Rosales being roses, apples, some berries, plums, pears, figs etc. Cannabaceae (the family cannabis is part of) is Rosales as well.

All the pears, plums, apples etc get it here.
A lot of Rosales is a PM magnet.

There are many, many variety of PM as well. Thousands even.
Unfortunately the fungul spores are everywhere, in the air we breath. Mostly invisible to the naked eye.
It only needs a tiny amount of water to germinate. The spores usully stick straight to the leaves.

Just so you know too. I dont filter my intake air. It comes straight in from outside. I guarantee i get spores coming in all the time.
Used to have it outside all the time, come early Autumn.
Never inside.
Chemical free as well.

PM is a fungus. Behaves, and breeds just the same as well.

Break its life cycle. Only way you're gonna get rid of it.
Or you'll keep getting it every single grow. Its a monster.

:peace:
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Uv light helps as well.

As to the eagle 20. The side effects are known. It has a long half life and will be in the final product. It creates hydrogen cyanide when burned.

If growing that much you are supplying others and shouldn't use eagle 20. Period.

It sucks but your only option may be to just cut everything and start over. I know that sucks but it's better than poisoning people with chemicals.
Agreed.

Clean slate.
Everything cleaned and sterilized. Head to toe.

Inevitably the only way imo.

:peace:
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Oh. I use a hepa filter on my intake. I'm sure that helps.

Slight pruning for better airflow helps.

If you do chop and start over spray everything with bleach water. Walls, floors. Everything. Then burn sulphur.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
Uv light helps as well.

As to the eagle 20. The side effects are known. It has a long half life and will be in the final product. It creates hydrogen cyanide when burned.

If growing that much you are supplying others and shouldn't use eagle 20. Period.

It sucks but your only option may be to just cut everything and start over. I know that sucks but it's better than poisoning people with chemicals.
Ive been turning all my stuff into cannabutter, and on these recent run I would just do 3 plants without any spraying, and one an eagle dunk before flip. Having done that side by side, I have learned that Eagle20 doesn't cure permanently, if there are still spores around it will get re-infected.

Also there are people that have done testing and if it used strictly before flowering, it has not been found in final product. Several LP's use it here and have gotten busted, so im sure any commercial underground grower definitely uses it, even in flower. It is my goal, to cure my mother stock, not perpetually spray it for eternity.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I cant stress to you enough, how much your grow environment has played a part in all this.
It really is your environment.
Something is out of whack.
Maybe what is going on is that once your infected, even if you change the environment, it will not go away that simply once infected. So there maybe needs to be a distinction between prevention and cure. I have made a clone thread on icmag of this one with the same tile, that really took off, are you on there as well?
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Ive been turning all my stuff into cannabutter, and on these recent run I would just do 3 plants without any spraying, and one an eagle dunk before flip. Having done that side by side, I have learned that Eagle20 doesn't cure permanently, if there are still spores around it will get re-infected.

Also there are people that have done testing and if it used strictly before flowering, it has not been found in final product. Several LP's use it here and have gotten busted, so im sure any commercial underground grower definitely uses it, even in flower. It is my goal, to cure my mother stock, not perpetually spray it for eternity.
I call bullshit on studies showing it safe used just before flower. Post them if there are.

Eagle 20 is a horrible product and shouldn't be used. It's for ornamental plants.

I don't care the reason, if I was getting pot from you and found out we would have a problem.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I call bullshit on studies showing it safe used just before flower. Post them if there are.

Eagle 20 is a horrible product and shouldn't be used. It's for ornamental plants.

I don't care the reason, if I was getting pot from you and found out we would have a problem.
I think I made it clear, I am looking for help and openly discussing what I have tried. You can shun and belittle me and say Im a bad person and grower but that only makes other people use this stuff in the shadows afraid to talk about it. I am talking about it, and sharing that it has not worked. That information will lower useage by other users, not your criticism. When people are depserate, they want a solution. Please help me with my problem moving forward, Eagle 20 is in the past, there is a 140 page thread of people using it and getting products tested and coming up clean. I am not the only one that has ever used it. I made it clearly i did control tests, and when eaten it is safe and i make cannbuter as well. Please dont derail my request for help with hate for eagle20.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
I think I made it clear, I am looking for help and openly discussing what I have tried. You can shun and belittle me and say Im a bad person and grower but that only makes other people use this stuff in the shadows afraid to talk about it. I am talking about it, and sharing that it has not worked. That information will lower useage by other users, not your criticism. When people are depserate, they want a solution. Please help me with my problem moving forward, Eagle 20 is in the past, there is a 140 page thread of people using it and getting products tested and coming up clean. I am not the only one that has ever used it. I made it clearly i did control tests, and when eaten it is safe and i make cannbuter as well. Please dont derail my request for help with hate for eagle20.
I've already told you how to solve it. Quit being greedy and chop everything and start from scratch.


I don't care how you say it or ask. I'm going to say that only a greedy or lazy grower would use shit like eagle 20.

There is no way to rid pm, especially in a perpetual grow with contaminated plants.

It's sucks. You have two choices. Either chop and start over and dial in your environment or use toxic chemicals.

You also made a claim of studies showing eagle 20 use in cannabis safe. Post them.
 
Last edited:

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
I cant stress to you enough, how much your grow environment has played a part in all this.
It really is your environment.
Something is out of whack.

^

  • temperature and humidity
I'm having the same problem only with septoria and it's all because I'm failing to adequately control my humidity.

I'm relying on sulfur burning but that's not the answer, time to add a better dehumidifier for best results.
-good luck!

Edit: eagle20 is not for use on ganja, it's for use on apples and grapes so I wouldn't recommend smoking it and I hope you're not selling it that wouldn't be cool

Also you said you didn't want to burn sulfur, why ? ..it works well & stops septoria cold in as little as 3 consecutive burn days ?
 
Last edited:

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
try lactoserum sprayed on your plants and surrounding area weekly or biweekly during veg and first few weeks of flower, its a probiotic you can make. google it. i have had luck with kombucha and EM1 as well indoors and outdoors in high humidity.
i think EM1 or kombucha would be similar as an EWC compost tea? I might do a test of that. But once again it would need to be done every week and spraying on buds late in flower would not give good results. No point keeping it at bay and then letting it go wild last few weeks
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Ive been turning all my stuff into cannabutter, and on these recent run I would just do 3 plants without any spraying, and one an eagle dunk before flip. Having done that side by side, I have learned that Eagle20 doesn't cure permanently, if there are still spores around it will get re-infected.

Also there are people that have done testing and if it used strictly before flowering, it has not been found in final product. Several LP's use it here and have gotten busted, so im sure any commercial underground grower definitely uses it, even in flower. It is my goal, to cure my mother stock, not perpetually spray it for eternity.
Im really not sure if this would be viable indoors. My intuition says no. But my grandmother had amazing results using 1part full cream milk to 10parts water. Then sprayed her tomato plants with it while they were fruiting.
It has to be full cream milk too. Her reasoning was the PM doest like the fat content.

Maybe what is going on is that once your infected, even if you change the environment, it will not go away that simply once infected. So there maybe needs to be a distinction between prevention and cure. I have made a clone thread on icmag of this one with the same tile, that really took off, are you on there as well?
I have to be honest man. I really do believe it is always your environment. A hard pill to swallow. But just the way it is.
The spores are germinating. They must have the right conditions to germinate in the first place. Just how it is.

When i used to get it outside. It was always plants close to one another. Or plants in a partly shaded spot come afternoon. Such as near a big tree.
Because of my local climate. As soon as the sun goes down humidity jumps straight up, and its still a little warm from the days sun. Perfect conditions for PM to germinate and grow.

Vulnerable plants get disease.
Plants thriving in optimal conditions dont.

Im sorry OP. It really is your environment. Plain and simple.
You gotta get a dehumidifier or something to dry that PM right out.
Physical removal of ANY mold as well.
Remove and destroy.
It really is the best way. If it works outside. It has to work indoors.

Powdery Mildew really is the most common plant disease where i live.

Finish your grow.
Clean down.
Sterilize head to toe.
Air your room for a few weeks.
Then start again with a clean slate.

:peace:

PS.
No ICmag sorry dude. Tbh RIU is the only form of social media i use.
The milk and water is just a preventative too. Not a treatment.
 
Last edited:
Top