Plants turning yellow

im4satori

Well-Known Member
'm wondering if anyone can help me on why my plants are turning yellow so quickly.

I'm on day 21 of flowering.
I have 3 different strains. Super glue. Ghost og. And Gelato.
Only the super glues are turning yellow.
I'm using hydroponics multiflow greentrees 2 gallon bucket system.
4x4 Rockwood covered in hydroton.
Ph is 6.4 in my reservoir.
I use a 3 part micro grow bloom. king kola , emerald goddess and honey chome products from emerald harvest.


Should I pick all the yellow leaves off ?
Also can anyone tell me if the buds look OK size for it being the start of week 3. Should they be bigger?
your formula really isn't that low in N

next time you run it I think youd be ok if you fed the veg nutes for first two weeks of 12/12 and keep your ph lower

for now if you want to bump up the N you can add 5mls micro no problem and drop the ph to 5.5

run it that way for a week or ten days and then drop the micro back down to 4mls
 

ejwilson1984

Well-Known Member
your formula really isn't that low in N

next time you run it I think youd be ok if you fed the veg nutes for first two weeks of 12/12 and keep your ph lower

for now if you want to bump up the N you can add 5mls micro no problem and drop the ph to 5.5

run it that way for a week or ten days and then drop the micro back down to 4mls
OK thanks for your help. I'll try this.
 

Know One

Well-Known Member
If I may jump in.
I noticed you said these are in 2-gallon containers. They could have root rot depending on the size of your root system and what kind of drainage you have for any watering overage.
From your description, I also believe you could have an imbalance of nutrients due to not following recommended usage rates. It's ok to drop or raise the amount as you feel would help as long as it's done using the same proportions of all components. If you change the % amount for one nutrient, make sure amounts for all other nutrients coincide when it comes to ratios, otherwise, you can get lockout (which is what I believe to be the issue).
The nutrients have a very specific balance of primary NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium), secondary (Calcium, Magnesium, and Sulfur), along with micro-elements. This is why nutrients are created in A, B and sometimes 3 part. They only mix in specific proportions, otherwise, that dreaded lockout happens.
When you water, take notes as to what goes in regarding pH, ppm or ec (whatever method you use), and then check against runoff. If your runoff is much higher, I would flush a few times (until runoff matches the amount you originally used). If the amount is much higher, you know you have lockout.
I also recommend that you lower pH to 5.5.
I would definitely remove all yellow leaves (as long as completely yellow and dead).
Sorry that this was so long. Hope it helps.
 

ejwilson1984

Well-Known Member
If I may jump in.
I noticed you said these are in 2-gallon containers. They could have root rot depending on the size of your root system and what kind of drainage you have for any watering overage.
From your description, I also believe you could have an imbalance of nutrients due to not following recommended usage rates. It's ok to drop or raise the amount as you feel would help as long as it's done using the same proportions of all components. If you change the % amount for one nutrient, make sure amounts for all other nutrients coincide when it comes to ratios, otherwise, you can get lockout (which is what I believe to be the issue).
The nutrients have a very specific balance of primary NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium), secondary (Calcium, Magnesium, and Sulfur), along with micro-elements. This is why nutrients are created in A, B and sometimes 3 part. They only mix in specific proportions, otherwise, that dreaded lockout happens.
When you water, take notes as to what goes in regarding pH, ppm or ec (whatever method you use), and then check against runoff. If your runoff is much higher, I would flush a few times (until runoff matches the amount you originally used). If the amount is much higher, you know you have lockout.
I also recommend that you lower pH to 5.5.
I would definitely remove all yellow leaves (as long as completely yellow and dead).
Sorry that this was so long. Hope it helps.
Thanks for your help.
 
'm wondering if anyone can help me on why my plants are turning yellow so quickly.

I'm on day 21 of flowering.
I have 3 different strains. Super glue. Ghost og. And Gelato.
Only the super glues are turning yellow.
I'm using hydroponics multiflow greentrees 2 gallon bucket system.
4x4 Rockwood covered in hydroton.
Ph is 6.4 in my reservoir.
I use a 3 part micro grow bloom. king kola , emerald goddess and honey chome products from emerald harvest.


Should I pick all the yellow leaves off ?
Also can anyone tell me if the buds look OK size for it being the start of week 3. Should they be bigger?
Always give your plants a little bloom ferts first 2 or 3 weeks of flower, gotta have nitrogen to sustain that stretch.
 

Know One

Well-Known Member
Most nutrient regiments account for this important 2 week period in flower by adding some sort of bloom booster which is always higher Phosphorous and Potassium (the P-K of the N-P-K nutrients values), You will find this on the front of all booster bottles. The N value will also be listed and will be 0 for a blossom booster.
Nitrogen is usually more prominent during veg to create first growth and maintain upper green leaves so you have lush plants to start your flowering.
Boosters in the first 2 weeks of flowering are for creating a strong root system which will give you larger buds. This is the Phosphorous and Potassium at work.
Your plants will automatically stretch to about 2 -1/2 times the size you put them in flower.
Many people try to add more or less of some nutrients that are not part of the original regimen. Follow directions exactly with whatever nutrient regimen you use, and you may be surprised with the result.
Blossom boosters out of proportion will also create lockout.
 
Last edited:

RoryO

Member
HI, this is my first plant ever, and i thought i might tag on the end of this post instead of starting a whole new thread. My plant (in week 6 of flower) is doing the same thing as the original poster's, and has been since week 4. i gave her higher doses of nutes during her first two weeks to prep her for the stretch. I have read that it's normal for the lower leaves to die, and that the plant is focusing her energy on bud production (which makes sense to me, but what the hell do i know? lol) So i was just hoping to get some input from some more experienced growers. she's in soil, and when i tested her run off, the PPM's were plenty high enough to suggest that she had enough nutes in her soil to feed her through the rest of flowering. is it possible that it really is just normal, and not an actual nitrogen deficiency? and if it is an actual nitro issue, is it too late to do anything about it now? will it ruin my buds? is the deficiency hurting my girl? any help is appreciated. thank you
 
if its the very top of the plant and its new growth

its either lights too close

or iron def

if its yellowing from the bottom fan leaves first its nitrogen

iron def shows up more often in early bloom (first two weeks) which I believe is from the addition of bloom nute P

P and iron compete for uptake so too much P too early can block the iron and often the problem resolves in later flower when the P needs go up

you might consider feeding veg nutes for the first 2 weeks of 12/12 since the P will be lower it might help with both issues
You're a genius. For me and many others, it is the iron deficiency caused by too much P after switching to 12/12. Having more light intensity exacerbates the problem since the plant begins pulling up more nutrients when more light is applied. This one is tricky to deduce. Many thanks. There are countless reports of this on various forums and you're the first person I've seen answer this so clearly. On nearly all the reports people say that it clears up in a few weeks, which makes sense because as you said the plant starts using up more P and it allows uptake of the iron. Yellowing on new growth at the top of the plant is classic iron deficiency, now I know why it happened. Yes!!!
 
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