Pine Bark as a mulch
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FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Pine is a very acidic tree, hence the needles get used a lot for blueberries in my province as they like an acidic soil.
Just an fyi.
FF
Just an fyi.
FF
Richard Drysift
Well-Known Member
I’ve used pine bark nuggets as a mulch for years. If it affected the ph in a negative way I didn’t notice and neither did the plants. Pine needles on the other hand do break down quickly so I could see how they would bring the ph down but bark nuggets stay pretty much whole for years; even if buried deep in soil. I still find them in my mix all the time. They get colonized by fungi after awhile; if you can find one that is soft enough to break open there’s usually white mycelium inside. I’ve moved on to straw mulch only because I happen to have a lot on hand but I’d use bark nuggets again. Good for moisture displacement when watering plants and for moisture retention during the warm season. Plus they’re cheap AF.
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Great info thank you.
FF
FF
Pine bark mulch has been a part of my soil mix for well over 40 years (learned the mix in 1972 and it was pine bark fines back then). Using the mulch AS a mulch is more recent, perhaps 10 or 12 years.
I've never really noticed any super pH drop from using bark, but my mix is always well limed and I don't feel the bark is as acidic as say the needles are.
I do know that I won't make a mix without pine bark in it. I listened to the 'it will make the soil too acidic' crowd once and it was a disaster after leaving out the bark. Kinda concluded they were full of shit and just voicing opinions rather than experience.
Now, as a mulch... Works well for my outdoor containers, but a really happy accident about 6 years ago made it close to perfection. I was out of mulch and needed something right then in a 15gal pot. Used ~a gallon of perlite I had handy till I could get to HD (usually keep 2 bags on hand).
Anyway, I put the bark mulch on top of the perlite and called it a day. A few weeks later I noticed that the perlite had floated up and actually combined with the bark mulch rather than just sitting on top. Worked a treat and nicer yet, when the plant was done it was super easy to remove the still blended perlite/mulch to use again as mulch OR to add to recycled soil for more aeration. A win-win in my book. It is now a common practice for me.
Yes, use it. Make sure you mix is well limed as a peat based mix should be and use the pine bark mulch in, or, on top of your mix as you see fit. Or, both, I do.
Wet
The needles itself are acidic but it dosnt lower the ph of the soil. You will have to check but if im not mistaken it will compost to neutral. Blueberry growers main source of ph control is sulfur. The mulch just keeps the soil moist.
Im on the fence about it actually acidifying the soil too. I wont lie and say I look extremely hard but I really cant find evidence of fines lowering the ph. If you find a guy that sells it they normally recommend always mixing it.Pine bark mulch has been a part of my soil mix for well over 40 years (learned the mix in 1972 and it was pine bark fines back then). Using the mulch AS a mulch is more recent, perhaps 10 or 12 years.
I've never really noticed any super pH drop from using bark, but my mix is always well limed and I don't feel the bark is as acidic as say the needles are.
I do know that I won't make a mix without pine bark in it. I listened to the 'it will make the soil too acidic' crowd once and it was a disaster after leaving out the bark. Kinda concluded they were full of shit and just voicing opinions rather than experience.
Now, as a mulch... Works well for my outdoor containers, but a really happy accident about 6 years ago made it close to perfection. I was out of mulch and needed something right then in a 15gal pot. Used ~a gallon of perlite I had handy till I could get to HD (usually keep 2 bags on hand).
Anyway, I put the bark mulch on top of the perlite and called it a day. A few weeks later I noticed that the perlite had floated up and actually combined with the bark mulch rather than just sitting on top. Worked a treat and nicer yet, when the plant was done it was super easy to remove the still blended perlite/mulch to use again as mulch OR to add to recycled soil for more aeration. A win-win in my book. It is now a common practice for me.
Yes, use it. Make sure you mix is well limed as a peat based mix should be and use the pine bark mulch in, or, on top of your mix as you see fit. Or, both, I do.
Wet
Hey wet.Pine bark mulch has been a part of my soil mix for well over 40 years (learned the mix in 1972 and it was pine bark fines back then). Using the mulch AS a mulch is more recent, perhaps 10 or 12 years.
I've never really noticed any super pH drop from using bark, but my mix is always well limed and I don't feel the bark is as acidic as say the needles are.
I do know that I won't make a mix without pine bark in it. I listened to the 'it will make the soil too acidic' crowd once and it was a disaster after leaving out the bark. Kinda concluded they were full of shit and just voicing opinions rather than experience.
Now, as a mulch... Works well for my outdoor containers, but a really happy accident about 6 years ago made it close to perfection. I was out of mulch and needed something right then in a 15gal pot. Used ~a gallon of perlite I had handy till I could get to HD (usually keep 2 bags on hand).
Anyway, I put the bark mulch on top of the perlite and called it a day. A few weeks later I noticed that the perlite had floated up and actually combined with the bark mulch rather than just sitting on top. Worked a treat and nicer yet, when the plant was done it was super easy to remove the still blended perlite/mulch to use again as mulch OR to add to recycled soil for more aeration. A win-win in my book. It is now a common practice for me.
Yes, use it. Make sure you mix is well limed as a peat based mix should be and use the pine bark mulch in, or, on top of your mix as you see fit. Or, both, I do.
Wet
Question for you.
Would Gypsum, langbeinite, Oyster shell be too much sulfer?
Would lobster & crab meal, langbeinite, Oyster shell be better mix?
No lime
thumper60
Well-Known Member
Pine bark as mulch will not lower soil ph, But it will rob lots N as it breaks down.
Why no lime? It is, by far the simplest thing to use and use accurately. Plus, once the Mg in dolo begins to release (takes a couple of weeks longer than the Ca), cal/mag issues are no longer a concern.
I use gypsum and crustacean meal as adjuncts, but not as main sources for anything really. BTW, oyster shell flour contains no sulfer, but coming just from the SF bay is just way too expensive getting shipped to the East coast and shows no real advantage. The lack of Mg in it means you will need to find another source for Mg. For me, dolomite is the most simple and cheapest solution for my liming/pH needs. YMMV
Wet
Honest answer is, its wasnt here, I havent used it for 3 years and I didnt want to go get it, however I went out to the garage and saw a 50# maybe a little less looks like i used a bit at some point
Im aware the Oyster flour has no sulfer, Im just providing whats going to be in the mix so you have the whole picture. I would like to no longer depend on calmag the price of 5 gallon jugs are getting too expensive. I just used my last bit of it.
I have oyster Gypsum, langbeinite, Oyster shell, crab & lobster and dolo whats your ratio per gallon and or what would you omit
i cant rember how old any of it is but its been kept in good storage
First off, let me say, I use dolo lime totally separate from everything else. That is my liming agent that I mix 1cup/CF of mix. or, 2tbl/gallon of mix. Once, fully releasing, the dolo pretty much takes care of any cal/mag issues. I have never used, or needed a cal/mag supplement using dolo lime.
It's simple and effective and trying to avoid it usually creates more problems than solved.
The only others you listed that I use, Are the crustacean meal and gypsum, added very light in the initial mix (1/2 cup/cf of each), and later as a top dress shortly before flowering. No experience with the others listed.
Wet
It's simple and effective and trying to avoid it usually creates more problems than solved.
The only others you listed that I use, Are the crustacean meal and gypsum, added very light in the initial mix (1/2 cup/cf of each), and later as a top dress shortly before flowering. No experience with the others listed.
Wet