Outdoor issues- yellow leaves brown circle spots

Sir Patrick

Sir Patrick

Well-Known Member
Outdoors MI grow. Garden Soil w/ little to no chemical fertilizers.

Crappy nuicence trees above/around seem to have similar issues.

No clue if its past, disease or moisture of late.

Starts with leaves which brown and crisp, moving into buds last.

20190921_153546.jpg 20190921_153556.jpg 20190921_153613.jpg
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
looks like its been under fed for a long time, what microbe product did you use what feeding schedule

pick off all the yellow leaves as they are doing nothing now.

A pinch of microbes and about 30 ml of molasses in 1 gal. for a couple of feedings might help give it something to work with.
 
Sir Patrick

Sir Patrick

Well-Known Member
It has definitely been underfed a long time.

Used azos and micos during planting, watered in mollasas a few times, but otherwise only feed koi pond water through the season.

I was hoping the "supersoil" from the local farm had enough to do the job but guessing not.

I'll add some salt p and k for immediate use, and will dose some mammoth p and mollasas next.

Been so rainy this season there has been little chances to water in any goodness into the soil.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Sir Patrick said:
It has definitely been underfed a long time.

Used azos and micos during planting, watered in mollasas a few times, but otherwise only feed koi pond water through the season.

I was hoping the "supersoil" from the local farm had enough to do the job but guessing not.

I'll add some salt p and k for immediate use, and will dose some mammoth p and mollasas next.

Been so rainy this season there has been little chances to water in any goodness into the soil.
Click to expand...

Well you answered the question of why your shit looks like shit.

You can water goodness in anytime even if it rained on them a quart of goodness on top isnt going to hurt anything.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
I'll add some salt p and k for immediate use, and will dose some mammoth p and mollasas next.

you can do all this in one feeding, dont need to wait.
 
Sir Patrick

Sir Patrick

Well-Known Member
The worst off were under these tree leaves-

20190922_191435.jpg

Very similar to the necrosis type thing going on in the plants underneath.20190922_191435.jpg
 
Sir Patrick

Sir Patrick

Well-Known Member
Bernie420 said:
Well you answered the question of why your shit looks like shit.
Click to expand...
Funny thing though...I grew here, before it was legal- no fence, no raised beds/soil additions/fertilizers and grew great...other than being root bound in the clay....nice green and vibrant but only 3 foot tall after an entire season of growing in root sufficient. Stunted but performed well yielding chronic.

I figured a foot of organic leaf/composted soil in the raised beds above would be sufficiant. I even tilled the natural ground a bit to break the surface for rooting to the high water table available back there.
 
Sir Patrick

Sir Patrick

Well-Known Member
Leaning towards a combo of nutrient (p&k) and the leak septoria mentioned.

These plants are all 4'-7' each. Much larger than the last root bound ants from a few years ago.

I removed all narcotic and yellow spotted leaves on the 2 plants affected as I could.

Appreciate all info so far.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Sir Patrick said:
Not familiar with copper fungicide use, but see Montery makes one.

Question-

It ok the spray in the last 3-4 weeks of flower? I'm at work and haven't been able to research well just yet.
Click to expand...
What is Copper Fungicide? Copper is a metal that, in dissolved form, penetrates plant tissues and helps control fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew.

I dont think you need it.

I dont like to spray anything harsh 2-3 weeks before chop
 
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