Nute defficiency or burn?

What's up growers?

I started this plant by seed, not sure the strain, but it comes from a quality seed bank.

Using 400 watt MY
Been in soil for about 7 weeks
Using ocean forest fox farm soil
Only used Grow big once at 1/2 strength
Adding calmag every third water
18/6 lights, 70-82 degree temps

I'm seeing some browning around the edges, thought it was a cal deficiency. Tell me what u guys think....

Looks more like water damage than any nute deficiency or burn. Ca deficiency will manifest in new growth before anything as it's an immobile nutrient.

And if you have any deficiencies after only 7 weeks with plants that small you bought a Chinese knock-off instead of real OFFF.

Tips will go brown first then the tips along the edges of the leaves with nutrient burn and I see none of that.

Never heard of water damage, what do you mean?

Greetings, would you happen to have a big azz fan blowing on them directly?

How often you watering?
What's the rH?

I have some small fans blowing, but not directly on them. The RH is between 40 and 60 (with lights out). Watering every third day, or so...only when they need water.

GrowingPetro said:

I have some small fans blowing, but not directly on them. The RH is between 40 and 60 (with lights out). Watering every third day, or so...only when they need water.

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Then I'm going with they are hungry. Loaded soil fux sheet up IMO cause you're never sure when to feed them before they start showing issues or on that path.

That's my two cents.

Good luck.

Looks like you have got some solution on them, I have this all the time because I water by hand and when you spill drops on your leaves with solution in it it can leave burnt spots...also the shape of the marijuana leaf tends to draw moisture to the edge where I guess it can burn
..If it was a deficiency it would be occurring more in a uniform manner...if it was nutrient burn your leaf "tips" would be browning and your leaves would possibly have "Hooked" ends and look rather deflated. Your leaves look nice and green and healthy...if your plants were not being fed your leaves would be yellowing from the bottom up and growth rate would be slow down. How is your growth rate?

GrowingPetro said:

Never heard of water damage, what do you mean?

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Try keep your water around ph 6.5 cause if you use tap it's probably alot higher
Use this chart to help you see ph range

I think it's the Grow Big....I just Googled the ingredients...my advice is to switch, on your next grow, to more organic forms of NPK and micro nutes, like rock dust. Use composted cow manure from the Depot. Use some garden lime in the mix too. You won't see those spots again.
Mostly though, its not gonna kill your plant...just gonna be a little ugly...no big deal.

KRSTEK said:

Try keep your water around ph 6.5 cause if you use tap it's probably alot higher
Use this chart to help you see ph range
View attachment 3944523

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Dude u don't need to Ph ur tap water...not for soil grows..where do u get this misinformation?

dannyboy602 said:

Dude u don't need to Ph ur tap water...not for soil grows..where do u get this misinformation?

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Well here for example...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/anyone-know-how-to-make-water-safe-for-plants.359325/

That chart also confirms it.


I keep my Soil and Water around the same level 6.6 -6.5 ph and always had good results like this.
The ONLY time i didn't get good results was when I ignored this factor and didn't take care of the ph level. So therefore my information is also based upon my own personal experience and that which anyone can forum search or web search in general.

Basically if the ph level is too high or too low, the plant will not take in various types of minerals which it needs to grow, like those listed in the chart, which then lead to deficiency.

"Dude u don't need to Ph ur tap water...not for soil grows..where do u get this misinformation?"
OK, Then Try give your plants a 9ph for a month and let us know how does your garden grow - They will Lack Neutrients due to lack of minerals absorbed
If PH didn't matter you could drop hydrochloric acid in there or how about some milk of magnesia instead So basically lets go ahead and drop in any fluids in the plant cause in the end ph for soil doesn't matter ... yeh right

NB Weed is an Acidic based plant and therefore will always perfers/benefit from a ph lower than 7.
I Think Hydroponic is 5.4-5.6ph maybe some Hydro Grower can confirm this, from what I recall it's 1ph less than optimal soil/water ph level for them.

Peac3

KRSTEK said:

Well here for example...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/anyone-know-how-to-make-water-safe-for-plants.359325/
That chart also confirms it.
I keep my Soil and Water around the same level 6.6 -6.5 ph and always had good results like this.
The ONLY time i didn't get good results was when I ignored this factor and didn't take care of the ph level. So therefore my information is also based upon my own personal experience and that which anyone can forum search or web search in general.

Basically if the ph level is too high or too low, the plant will not take in various types of minerals which it needs to grow, like those listed in the chart, which then lead to deficiency.

Try give your plants a 8ph for a month and let us know how does your garden grow
If PH didn't mater you could drop hydrochloric acid in there or how about some milk of magnesia instead

Peac3

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If ur soil Ph is slightly acid, which is optimum, it will mitigate the Ph of the tap water. You only need to be measuring the Ph of your medium, not the tap water. Soil can be made slightly more acid with organic matter, peat Moss, elemental sulfur and even nitrogen fertilizers. Garden lime will have the opposite effect. Ph down is great for removing calcium build up in the bathtub and toilet...you don't need it for growing Cannabis in soil grows.

Moreover, Cannabis is Ph adaptable. The chart you use shows elements and their availability in a range of Ph soil solutions. But if your soil Ph is off you're wasting your time playing with the Ph of your tap water.
You're intentions are good but your method is flawed...but its cool. It's the end result that counts. My guess is in about ten or twenty more grows you'll understand what I'm talking about.
No offense of course...I've just been doing this for years. I know more about soil than god...lol.

dannyboy602 said:

If ur soil Ph is slightly acid, which is optimum, it will mitigate the Ph of the tap water. You only need to be measuring the Ph of your medium, not the tap water. Soil can be made slightly more acid with organic matter, peat Moss, elemental sulfur and even nitrogen fertilizers. Garden lime will have the opposite effect. Ph down is great for removing calcium build up in the bathtub and toilet...you don't need it for growing Cannabis in soil grows.

Moreover, Cannabis is Ph adaptable. The chart you use shows elements and their availability in a range of Ph soil solutions. But if your soil Ph is off you're wasting your time playing with the Ph of your tap water.
You're intentions are good but your method is flawed...but its cool. It's the end result that counts. My guess is in about ten or twenty more grows you'll understand what I'm talking about.
No offense of course...I've just been doing this for years. I know more about soil than god...lol.

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As I stated :
"I keep my Soil and Water around the same level 6.6 -6.5 ph and always had good results like this."
Therefore I am pleased you agree with me on balance
To reduce ph you can even use lemon or vinegar, it will also work, i'm sure you will also learn this if you try it out in the next few Grows

Thanks a lot guys....

I always ph down to 6.7 or 6.8. Going to take it to 6.5.

I'm thinking some water for on the leaves, if so, will it spread?

Stipulus said:

Looks like you have got some solution on them, I have this all the time because I water by hand and when you spill drops on your leaves with solution in it it can leave burnt spots...also the shape of the marijuana leaf tends to draw moisture to the edge where I guess it can burn
..If it was a deficiency it would be occurring more in a uniform manner...if it was nutrient burn your leaf "tips" would be browning and your leaves would possibly have "Hooked" ends and look rather deflated. Your leaves look nice and green and healthy...if your plants were not being fed your leaves would be yellowing from the bottom up and growth rate would be slow down. How is your growth rate?

Click to expand...

Growing pretty good, I'm going to keep a close eye on it, gonna be switching to flower in the next 2 weeks.

dannyboy602 said:

Dude u don't need to Ph ur tap water...not for soil grows..where do u get this misinformation?

Click to expand...

The ph on my tap is almost 8

GrowingPetro said:

The ph on my tap is almost 8

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If your pots never get more than 50%dry and you have 5ga or bigger pots high pH isn't a problem. The micro herd will regulate the pH in the rhizosphere. If you dry them out constantly the herd is sleeping or dead.

GrowingPetro said:

The ph on my tap is almost 8

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Do you have a ph soil meter? I'd suggest a simple 3way like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Meter-Light-Test-Function/dp/B007FMVOVK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_86_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9RQ2EXASTHHKT93D571Z

So if your tap is 8 you need to ph down based upon the ph level of your soil to create balance, cheap natural methods of ph down can be lemon juice or vinegar but i suggest you look up dose - reason I suggest these is because you can find them fairly easy around the house, I use vinegar - made from Apples.
Try add a teaspoon of vinegar to about 1L of water with that 8ph tap water, shake it and test it after 5mins and see what ph you get

Or you can buy ph down.

NB Remember if you use tap water, let it sit in an open bucket for example over night, this should help eliminate the clorine.
"This process takes about 24 hours for normal tap water concentrations of a few ppm of chloramine. Residual free chlorine can then be removed by exposure to bright sunlight for about 4 hours." Clorine Kills your Plants!

KRSTEK said:

Do you have a ph soil meter? I'd suggest a simple 3way like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Meter-Light-Test-Function/dp/B007FMVOVK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_86_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9RQ2EXASTHHKT93D571Z

So if your tap is 8 you need to ph down based upon the ph level of your soil to create balance, cheap natural methods of ph down can be lemon juice or vinegar but i suggest you look up dose - reason I suggest these is because you can find them fairly easy around the house, I use vinegar - made from Apples.
Try add a teaspoon of vinegar to about 1L of water with that 8ph tap water, shake it and test it after 5mins and see what ph you get

Or you can buy ph down.

NB Remember if you use tap water, let it sit in an open bucket for example over night, this should help eliminate the clorine.
"This process takes about 24 hours for normal tap water concentrations of a few ppm of chloramine. Residual free chlorine can then be removed by exposure to bright sunlight for about 4 hours." Clorine Kills your Plants!

Click to expand...

I Ph my tap water down to 6.8 or 6.9 using phdown

GrowingPetro said:

I Ph my tap water down to 6.8 or 6.9 using phdown

Click to expand...

Personally , I suggest keep it 6.4- 6.8, based upon studies this will allow them to suck up everything they need , based upon what YOU provide

NB your water PH should be balanced baced upon you soil ph.
EG I got 6.5 PH Soil but I got 6.9 PH Water = Average 6.7 PH cause in the end the soil will take in the water as if it was the same thing so therefore this simple balanced out calculation should give you a basic example, test ph in anycase to confirm basic calculation
Basically it will balance out the TOTAL of what you have + or - , you don't need some lameass Degree qualification to understand simple physhics. In the end it's all basic maths, weed is a herb, a wild flower with basic weed roots so therefore more stronger and if you like more forgiving than many basic plants.