Need help - I have weird burn on leaves during my vegetative state

markk1244 said:

Thanks for your help, how should I correct a nitrogen deficiency?

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I suggest calcium nitrate because you have deficiencies in both.

markk1244 said:

Thank you, this helps isolate the issue. Do you have any recommendations on how I can bring the plant back to good health?

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Well it depends on the cause.
By looks alone your plant appears to have nutrient lockout out do to low ph.
I wonder what the ph of your soil is.
Water ph going in and drainage ph?

Psyclops said:

Well it depends on the cause.
By looks alone your plant appears to have nutrient lockout out do to low ph.
I wonder what the ph of your soil is.
Water ph going in and drainage ph?

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It won't be low pH because then the plants would at least get N.

tstick said:

Looks like at least thrips, bug-wise, Calcium deficiency or pH lockout going on.... Soil looks bad. You probably vectored in all kinds of critters from some random outdoor garden soil or something.

One thing a lot of inexperienced growers don't understand is that weed will "survive" under a lot of bad conditions, but, the idea of growing it, indoors, is to provide perfect conditions and then maintain them throughout the grow so that the plants flourish and exceed what they would do under imperfect conditions. You're just providing imperfect conditions, indoors and your plant looks like it's just trying to survive at this point.

Coming here to ask advice is good for starters. Watch some grow videos. Read some articles. When you come across some growers getting results like the ones you want to get, then copy exactly what they do. Don't grow auto flowers or fast flowers, either. Stay completely away from them. That's my advice.

If you decide to start over....Get some Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, a couple few 4-gallon plastic garden pots (I'd avoid the cloth bags)....Mix in some extra perlite and vermiculite for drainage....weigh the containers both unwatered and watered so that you know when to water or not. pH your incoming water and check the runoff pH, too. Find a good synthetic fertilizer regime like Jack's 3-2-1 system and follow the instructions. Avoid the "Joy Juice" "Super Piss" "Bud Hardener" bullshit. Stick to the basics.

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I went through quite a lot to get this plant so I don't particularly want to start over again. What do you suggest I do to correct
my issues? Should I flush the plants with a lot of water to wash the fertilizer out? Also how do I get rid of the bugs? I don't really want to use pesticide on my plant if I don't have to.

Should I get the plant out of the soil and convert to a hydroponic setup so I can monitor the plants properties more closer? Thank you again

markk1244 said:

I am using a soil mix called Scotts Osmocote Plus 25L Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Premium Planting mix.

Scotts Osmocote® Plus Organics Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Potting Mix

FEATURES Includes all the organic materials that plants and soils love -composted manure, blood & bone, seaweed, fish and molasses Promotes soil microbes w

www.lovethegarden.com

For fertilizer I am using Charlie Carp all purpose fertilizer. I am using bottled spring water.

Charlie Carp All Purpose Fertiliser 1L - Garden World

The 1 litre concentrate is an economical way to get the most out of your fertiliser. Standard dilution rate is 10ml to 1 litre of water.

gardenworld.com.au

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It is now VERY, VERY likely (in my opinion) to be low pH/nutrient lockout because most of these tomato soil mixes are extremely acidic -the idea being that tomatoes like acidic soil. PLUS, "osmocote" is a slow-release fertilizer that they mix into the soil. So, if you add more fertilizer to it, you're going load your soil with too much. You can easily check the runoff or do a slurry test to determine soil pH. I'd just get some General Hydroponics test drops because it's WAY more accurate than using pH meters.

In all honesty, if it was me, and I couldn't start over, then I'd try to just give the plants plain, pH'd water with no nutrients added. I'd try to aerate and loosen up that soil with a poker of some kind (coat hanger wire for example). Be extremely careful with watering and use the weight of the pots as an indicator of water needs. Lots of times those fabric pots dry out quickly down to the first 4" or so and around the perimeter of the entire pot....and then suddenly they are soaking wet in the lower, central half. But people look at the soil and it looks dry, so they water it. If they would just pick up the pots to test the weight, then they would feel that they are full of water and rotting roots.

Back off on the light intensity, too -at least while the plant tries to recover from the shock it's suffering. Try to give it clean, fresh air.

It could pull out, but you've got a lot of things to deal with that even skilled growers would find to be too much trouble -unless it was some kind of super-elite, rare plant. But, yeah, give it a shot and use it as a learning experience.

Considering it’s in veg and having so many problems as the others have mentioned the soil mix is too strong/low pH. Then adding fertiliser to it has just compounded the issue.

Check pH of run off and ppms if possible. Tomatoes can handle 3 EC which fries cannabis.

Also did you start in the final container? Is it a photo or auto?

Hey guys, providing an update here. I ended up putting the plant outside to get it out of the infested tent and turns out I have spider mites across my plant. I cleaned out the soil as best I could by getting rid of the eggs I could find. What do you recommend I do to get rid of the spiders throughout the plant and restore the plant back to good health? Is the plant too far gone now? I have attached photos so you can see what I'm dealing with. Should I move the plant to a hydroponic setup after getting rid of the infestation or am I committed to soil if I start vegetative state in soil

Well, start with sterilizing the indoor area. Never put that plant back inside.
It's crawling top to bottom with mites and maybe thrips also, probably ought to check your houseplants too.
It's going to need multiple spraying, revegging, dunking, pruning in best case scenario. Along with the nute issues, recovery will be slow

Knock down spray of soapy water, then throw it away. I don't think it's worth the money or effort, you could grow another healthy plant faster than the recovery time on this one.

If you really want to save it, here's a list (at the bottom) of approved remedies.

That plant belongs to the spider mites now

Salvaging these plants will be very difficult. It would be a lot easier to just start over. Make sure you clean/spray everything well and sanitize your grow area. Once you're good and clean, you can try again. In the meantime, try to read up as much as you can and learn about the method and medium you want to run with.

Every opportunity to try is an opportunity to improve and learn. Mites suck, and many of us have been humbled by them in the past. It requires diligence and treating several times to fully kill them off.

I am almost 100 sure not a nutrient deficit, but too much of something. I always first think nitrogen because it is the most common addition and time release fertilizers can really sneak up on you.

As far as bugs go, I can't tell if you have thrips based on the pictures, but it does look like there may be some spider might, judging by the tiny white spots.

For thrips, beneficial nematodes added to the soil really work. For the spider mites, those little f'ers are a pain. I have used a bacteria spray made that dissolves their exoskeleton, but that doesn't 100% eradicate them. I've used soap solutions, that keeps them at bay for a while, and I've used teas that I've made with peppers. They all work about 95 percent. If you combine a few treatment methods that seems to work best.

The plants are still salvageable, and if you water the crap out of them add some nematodes and make yourself a couple different foilar sprays and you can get them back in the game. I would alternate between spraying with a homeade hot pepper tea (wear protective gear) and Arber, they makes a good foilar spray with fermented caterpillars. I wait a couple days between sprays. Like quite a few people mentioned it will be some work, but depending on what your growing you can definitely still get back on track.

The other option would be toss them in the garbage and bleach every surface in and around your grow. But no matter where you get your soil you will always have pests popping up if you have an established grow, so don't back down, keep things as clean as possible and learn some tricks.

My two cents. Good luck.

DCcan said:

Well, start with sterilizing the indoor area. Never put that plant back inside.
It's crawling top to bottom with mites and maybe thrips also, probably ought to check your houseplants too.
It's going to need multiple spraying, revegging, dunking, pruning in best case scenario. Along with the nute issues, recovery will be slow

Knock down spray of soapy water, then throw it away. I don't think it's worth the money or effort, you could grow another healthy plant faster than the recovery time on this one.

If you really want to save it, here's a list (at the bottom) of approved remedies.

Information for Hemp and Medical Marijuana Growers

portal.ct.gov

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No. Not only can the plant be saved, it can be useful as a training tool.

Insecticidal soap EVERY 3 DAYS. Not 4 days, not "whenever" but EVERY 3 DAYS. I should leave it to the OP to Google why but I'll offer a hint; life cycle interruption.

Pull the tent, take it outside and wash it. Let it dry and leave it where it can get warm. Warmth causes any eggs to hatch, then the larvae due because no food. Leave it for a week or better yet, two.

Vacuum the room, wipe down the walls with a mild soap solution. Remove ALL plant material, soil, organic fertilizers. Get it warm, same reason as the tent.

I really like pyrethrin based insecticides for spider mites; do not use it on the plants in flower past week one. Use it in the room, on the tent, etc. Since it also has little persistence, every 3 days is key.

After 3 weeks, you can dial your applications back to weekly.

Don't be afraid of pests; learn how to deal with them effectively. They're a fact of life.

ttystikk said:

After 3 weeks, you can dial your applications back to weekly.

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In 3 weeks, its going to be throwing pistils outside, then need reveg time.
Or isolation and lighting inside till the grow area is cleaned.

Throw this faka in the shower every day to get the mites off, then start treating the plant in 3 day cycles, while rotating what you use for IPM. Them fakas will build immunity. The shower or a spray with the hose will help knock them down before treatment.

Your in veg right now, so you can go full nuclear on the plant and not worry about it much. Its easier to toss it, but this can also be used as a learning experience.

Your tent and grow area is gonna need to be wiped down very good I would use a mixture of bleach and water and wipe literally everything: Lights, fans, walls, poles, the walls again etc..

For my IPM lineup, I am currently using: Lost Coast Plant Therapy, Athena IPM and Captain Jacks Dead Bug brew. Prevention is always easier than dealing with infestation, so in the future get you an IPM routine nailed down.

As far as the deficiencies you have going on, foliar feed will be the best/fastest way to fix that for now. Especially if its calcium issues.. Id also give that soil a really good flush and just repot if possible.

Good luck growmie!

Mites life cycle & timing below FYSA...

fr0sty0 said:

Throw this faka in the shower every day to get the mites off, then start treating the plant in 3 day cycles, while rotating what you use for IPM. Them fakas will build immunity. The shower or a spray with the hose will help knock them down before treatment.

Your in veg right now, so you can go full nuclear on the plant and not worry about it much. Its easier to toss it, but this can also be used as a learning experience.

Your tent and grow area is gonna need to be wiped down very good I would use a mixture of bleach and water and wipe literally everything: Lights, fans, walls, poles, the walls again etc..

For my IPM lineup, I am currently using: Lost Coast Plant Therapy, Athena IPM and Captain Jacks Dead Bug brew. Prevention is always easier than dealing with infestation, so in the future get you an IPM routine nailed down.

As far as the deficiencies you have going on, foliar feed will be the best/fastest way to fix that for now. Especially if its calcium issues.. Id also give that soil a really good flush and just repot if possible.

Good luck growmie!

Mites life cycle & timing below FYSA...

View attachment 5458933

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Keep in mind that there are predatory mites that are almost always red. They're easier to identify because they move pretty quickly. It's very nice to have a colony of them in your grow.

ttystikk said:

Keep in mind that there are predatory mites that are almost always red. They're easier to identify because they move pretty quickly. It's very nice to have a colony of them in your grow.

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They aren't allowed where I am or is definitely use those too!

fr0sty0 said:

They aren't allowed where I am or is definitely use those too!

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Not allowed? Who's stopping you? I got mine from my backyard lol

ttystikk said:

Not allowed? Who's stopping you? I got mine from my backyard lol

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I live on a tiny island, alot of stuff is banned from being brought here as it could wreak havoc on our eco system.

tons of odd things are banned. Happy frog soil for instance is banned but the ocean forest is allowed, i dont use either so mehh. But it is what it is.

Another example, I can get jacks dead bug brew pre mixed, but not the concentrated form of it.. Ive tried to get predator mites and its completely banned, most people wont even ship them. A lot of paints and solvents etc is banned too.

So there is quite a bit stopping me from doing it anyways.

If you mulch your soil, beneficial bugs will often find your plants. I’ve got springtails and beneficial mites and I never introduced anything on purpose. They are super common in most places in the world. Check Google, and you’ll probably find some local options living around you.