Insulated tent? Let’s take it below freezing!

GarageGardener69

Well-Known Member
Has anyone had the need to insulate their tent in an unconditioned space? Currently entering the time of year where the lows will be just that, too low…

36”x36”x72” with a T6-AC infinity in-line exhausting out into unconditioned space but I have managed to run a 4” (R-6 insulation value) ducting from a conditioned space to the tent (in unconditioned space)

That will be my homes typical air being drawn into the tent via the AC infinity T6 negative pressure created from pulling air out of the tent. Walls atm are being pulled in hard only on speed 3. There’s a noticeable draw from the inlet of the 4” from conditioned space.


At its current set up it’s only able to keep the ambient lights out temp only 2.5* to 4*F above the unconditioned area. This area may hit lows of 40*F possibly lower if there’s a bad stretch of cold.

plan is to get some ridged foam insulation and make an air tight box that only has the two mentioned intake/out takes

2” thick foam has an R-10 insulation value so it should do some kind of job at keeping the constant air exchange warm.

what do you guys think? Damn foam boards will run more than the tent lol

thanks!
 

GarageGardener69

Well-Known Member
Yeah it’s on slab. Planning to have 4” of foam on the bottom and top of it for some extra R value. I took a probe to the soil and read a temp of only 62 while upper tent was 63.
Today’s high is 62 and windy. We will see how they ran today with consistent “cold”
 

GarageGardener69

Well-Known Member
And in conjunction with the foam on the bottom they’ll also be elevated in the tent themselves on risers of some sort for watering etc.

A thermal break from the slab I think will a non problem. It’s the draw of air in from all directions, like the zippers, vent ports (all tied off). But the van pulls the fabric TIGHT.

Probably has it closer to 32x32 at mid tent when running at speed 3 (does it on speed 1 too even but takes a few seconds more to evacuate all the air)

so if I can eliminate all the”extra” air getting pulled in and have it just pull condidtioned air from the 4” port I think I can ride the winter out without adding a heat source

trying to avoid a mini space heater in tent
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
You'll need to make a high CFM kit for your tent to keep the walls from sucking in. There are a ton of examples here on how to go about it.
Here's how I did it for a 4'x4' vivosun tent for an example...
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
My grow room is not in a garage but in a underground concrete bunker in northern Alberta that we can't allow to freeze but in the almost 20 years I've owned the house have never had to apply heat tho it has got down to just a couple degrees C above freezing. Even this last summer with the heat domes it never got above 65F down there either so have never needed A/C either.

Couple things you should have is a temp/rh controller for your exhaust fan so it only runs when needed to reduce the heat or rh and a heater with a thermostat to make it come on when it drops below your set temp. I bought a 120/240v baseboard thermostat and wired it into a metal electrical box like the kind you would use for a light switch with cords on each end so I plug the heater into that with it's control on high and let the thermostat turn it on and off as needed. The climate is controlled in a very narrow range whether the lights are on or off. Also wired up a speed controller like the thermostat so the fan runs at 60W instead of the full 120W at full blast. Air is pulled into the room through filters from the rest of the basement and not directly from outside as it gets to -35C and up to +35C out there.

To keep tent walls from getting sucked in some cross bracing with string, rope or strong fishing line to prevent them bulging inwards will do the trick. Heavy blankets, comforters or sleeping bags from a thrift store will do the job pretty cheap too.

:peace:
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
Are we in a bloom situation? cause if were not then close that exhaust off and let the warm air just flow in there and push out through the seems/zippers. Throw a peice of plastic over the top and down each side, then a blanket down each side, then plastic then blanket. Use clones pins to pin the edges. With the 2 layers of alternating plastic/blanket should be decent insulation with warm air blowing in the tent. Try and blow the air in the bottom. Thats where I would start. I have loads of blankets, clothes pins and rolled plastic laying around. If that didnt work, im just running a space heater out to it.
 

oill

Well-Known Member
Has anyone had the need to insulate their tent in an unconditioned space? Currently entering the time of year where the lows will be just that, too low…

36”x36”x72” with a T6-AC infinity in-line exhausting out into unconditioned space but I have managed to run a 4” (R-6 insulation value) ducting from a conditioned space to the tent (in unconditioned space)

That will be my homes typical air being drawn into the tent via the AC infinity T6 negative pressure created from pulling air out of the tent. Walls atm are being pulled in hard only on speed 3. There’s a noticeable draw from the inlet of the 4” from conditioned space.


At its current set up it’s only able to keep the ambient lights out temp only 2.5* to 4*F above the unconditioned area. This area may hit lows of 40*F possibly lower if there’s a bad stretch of cold.

plan is to get some ridged foam insulation and make an air tight box that only has the two mentioned intake/out takes

2” thick foam has an R-10 insulation value so it should do some kind of job at keeping the constant air exchange warm.

what do you guys think? Damn foam boards will run more than the tent lol

thanks!
Yeah.... I got sheets of bubble wrap insulation taped together and draped over my tents. Also a lot of polystyrene tiles across the roof of the tent. I also add heaters and slow down air flow.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
How cold will it get outside the tent? I have a grow room in an unheated, unattached garage. So I control the whole climate within - but rely on an oil heater to keep temps up in the winter. I run in a T6, as well as inkbirds for my temp/Rh/CO2. If you are able to draw warm air into the tent from a conditioned space you might be good to go, but understand this will cause an equal amount of colder/exterior air to be drawn into your home… just something to think of.

I wouldn’t try to survive without an oil filled heater at the ready - you can get em cheap, totally worth the piece of mind
 

GarageGardener69

Well-Known Member
How cold will it get outside the tent? I have a grow room in an unheated, unattached garage. So I control the whole climate within - but rely on an oil heater to keep temps up in the winter. I run in a T6, as well as inkbirds for my temp/Rh/CO2. If you are able to draw warm air into the tent from a conditioned space you might be good to go, but understand this will cause an equal amount of colder/exterior air to be drawn into your home… just something to think of.

I wouldn’t try to survive without an oil filled heater at the ready - you can get em cheap, totally worth the piece of mind
nice I like the sound of that set up. I’m looking to do mine with just the air from the conditioned space Definitely having heat loss issues else where, what’s one more lol
 

GarageGardener69

Well-Known Member
Yeah.... I got sheets of bubble wrap insulation taped together and draped over my tents. Also a lot of polystyrene tiles across the roof of the tent. I also add heaters and slow down air flow.
Nice. I’ve saved some packing insulation from food box orders and some of its reflective bubble wrap. Maybe make a clone box
 

JimmiP

Well-Known Member
I am in favor of the oil radiator. They do the job during dark cycles outstandingly, even better using an Inkbird (I have two Inkbirds that handle temp and humidity) . I would get the 1800 watt three way switchable radiator and run it at the 600 watt setting.
I haven't seen the lights you are using mentioned yet and was wondering about that. If they are LEDs I would consider switching to a 600w hid. At least for the winter months. I used three 600w switchable ballasts in my 4x8 flower room, in a chilly basement and keep the temperature around 80f. When the lights go out the heater takes over.
Just my two cents.
Good luck friend!
 
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