HELP....Whats going on with my plants?!?!

Good evening

Any advice on whats going on with my plants. First time growing indoors.
22 days old, grown from seed, germinated in paper towel, 3 grown in peat pellets, the one that is struggling, put in promix hp.

Soil: Promix HP
Light: Mars TSW2000 300W Dimmable
18" from canopy at 50%
Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients Micro,Grow, Bloom,Calmag.Greenplanet:vitathrive.
Grow tent: 55-60% Humidity
23-25°C

Gave Nutrients at quarter strength when they were 15 days old, Micro Grow Bloom. May have overwatered as they had to go 8 days before soil was ready for more water. Gave them calmag water 2 days ago. They seem to be getting better with the exception of the tiny plant.

Do I need to nutrient every time with promix hp?

Thanks for any input

What is in the other pots? I've used HP for over 10 years and it has no nutes of it's own and doesn't need extra calmag right off as it has quite a bit of two types of lime. It does need nutes of some kind added or there's nothing for the plants to eat.

The bad one looks like it's starving more than the others. Very low K and P will cause leaves to look like that and it's overall pale look indicates lack of N.

If by 1/4 strength you mean 1ml/L of each then you should go for 2ml/L and flush it thru good so the pot is well saturated. Dilute that in half or less for the other 3 if they have soil mixed in there that has nutrients in it.

I start my plants in pots like those. 3" square flimsy nursery pots. My little Mazarilla autos 9 days old yesterday in this pic. I just scooped up 3 pots worth of HP into a big bowl, stirred in a Tbsp each of Gaia Green Kelp Meal, 1-0-2 and their Super Fly Insect Frass, 3-2-4, packed the pots and watered with RO. Later they will be fed AN 3-part in bigger pots with calmag added after the first few waterings.





Happy New Year and Good Luck!

They look hungry and need transplanted
Happy new year

OldMedUser said:

What is in the other pots? I've used HP for over 10 years and it has no nutes of it's own and doesn't need extra calmag right off as it has quite a bit of two types of lime. It does need nutes of some kind added or there's nothing for the plants to eat.

The bad one looks like it's starving more than the others. Very low K and P will cause leaves to look like that and it's overall pale look indicates lack of N.

If by 1/4 strength you mean 1ml/L of each then you should go for 2ml/L and flush it thru good so the pot is well saturated. Dilute that in half or less for the other 3 if they have soil mixed in there that has nutrients in it.

I start my plants in pots like those. 3" square flimsy nursery pots. My little Mazarilla autos 9 days old yesterday in this pic. I just scooped up 3 pots worth of HP into a big bowl, stirred in a Tbsp each of Gaia Green Kelp Meal, 1-0-2 and their Super Fly Insect Frass, 3-2-4, packed the pots and watered with RO. Later they will be fed AN 3-part in bigger pots with calmag added after the first few waterings.

View attachment 5057850

View attachment 5057851

Happy New Year and Good Luck!

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They are all in HP. I planted the peat pucks into the HP after 2 weeks. Yes, I fed them 1ml/L once in the 3 weeks they have been above ground. They also have been fed vitathrive at .5ml/L. Should I be feeding nutes every water with HP? The ladies look great BTW!! Happy New Year

Cranks said:

They are all in HP. I planted the peat pucks into the HP after 2 weeks. Yes, I fed them 1ml/L once in the 3 weeks they have been above ground. They also have been fed vitathrive at .5ml/L. Should I be feeding nutes every water with HP? The ladies look great BTW!! Happy New Year

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I'd be feeding every water at the rate you are or more. Double the first one to get them going. I'm not impressed with thrive stuff. A little kelp meal in the mix is better. I have SuperThrive.

You should see them green up and start showing growth pretty quick once they have plenty to eat but don't go overboard with it.

Those 3 little ladies of mine will be getting sprayed with STS as soon as they start to flower to get pollen to make fem seeds with the next batch of them I'll be planting in about a month. Will probably do 5 and pick the best to make seeds with. I grew two outside in the ground this last summer and they did really good. Only 32" tall and gave me 6oz each.

Fan leaves all pruned off to harvest the next day. Too far north to grow regulars outside so auto fems are the way to go. Should have started doing this years ago.

We dont need calmag in soil my guy unless using RO, and if using RO, also stop unless tap is unusable.

@OldMedUser nailed it yesterday, they need more food.

Needs to be fed everytime with 15-30% runoff. Feed them all 2.5ec today, then drop it down to 1.5-2ec after they dry out and run em there until you get closer to flip. They'll need an ec bump then

Air temps could also be higher, 28-30c, RH 60-65%. Look into VPD when you have a chance

Best of luck, happy growin

OldMedUser said:

I'd be feeding every water at the rate you are or more. Double the first one to get them going. I'm not impressed with thrive stuff. A little kelp meal in the mix is better. I have SuperThrive.

You should see them green up and start showing growth pretty quick once they have plenty to eat but don't go overboard with it.

Those 3 little ladies of mine will be getting sprayed with STS as soon as they start to flower to get pollen to make fem seeds with the next batch of them I'll be planting in about a month. Will probably do 5 and pick the best to make seeds with. I grew two outside in the ground this last summer and they did really good. Only 32" tall and gave me 6oz each.

Fan leaves all pruned off to harvest the next day. Too far north to grow regulars outside so auto fems are the way to go. Should have started doing this years ago.

View attachment 5057880

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Thanks for taking the time to give me some advice @OldMedUser!! I will feed them. Your outdoors look awesome!! I did 3 outside this year and had to bring them in and put under lights as I to, am too far north. It was a pain in the ass because my plants were 6ft tall, however I got 3/4 of a pound. That experience and yield started me down this road of growing inside.

visajoe1 said:

We dont need calmag in soil my guy unless using RO, and if using RO, also stop unless tap is unusable.

@OldMedUser nailed it yesterday, they need more food.

Needs to be fed everytime with 15-30% runoff. Feed them all 2.5ec today, then drop it down to 1.5-2ec after they dry out and run em there until you get closer to flip. They'll need an ec bump then

Air temps could also be higher, 28-30c, RH 60-65%. Look into VPD when you have a chance

Best of luck, happy growin

Click to expand...

Thanks!! What is RO? EC?
Also what is VPD? I will feed them asap.

Cranks said:

Thanks for taking the time to give me some advice @OldMedUser!! I will feed them. Your outdoors look awesome!! I did 3 outside this year and had to bring them in and put under lights as I to, am too far north. It was a pain in the ass because my plants were 6ft tall, however I got 3/4 of a pound. That experience and yield started me down this road of growing inside.

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Use your warm months to veg with free light outdoors. Read about topping and supercropping. I can keep virtually any strain chest high without tying anything down. I can't do much about stretch after the first couple of weeks of flower but by then it's usually okay. My outdoor growing season here is about 100 days and by the time first freeze occurs we are still at 16 hours of daylight. Even autos don't finish.

Ignore the crap about bringing them indoors because that's always from people who aren't forced to. Treat preventative for pests and powdery mildew. Silica and citric acid foliar sprays work very well. Read about silica before jumping in with it.

Cranks said:

Thanks for taking the time to give me some advice @OldMedUser!! I will feed them. Your outdoors look awesome!! I did 3 outside this year and had to bring them in and put under lights as I to, am too far north. It was a pain in the ass because my plants were 6ft tall, however I got 3/4 of a pound. That experience and yield started me down this road of growing inside.

Click to expand...

One more question: what ph should I be shooting for? I have been having to bring it down as my tap water is 7.5. I have been bringing it down to 6.3. Should I go lower?

hotrodharley said:

Use your warm months to veg with free light outdoors. Read about topping and supercropping. I can keep virtually any strain chest high without tying anything down. I can't do much about stretch after the first couple of weeks of flower but by then it's usually okay. My outdoor growing season here is about 100 days and by the time first freeze occurs we are still at 16 hours of daylight. Even autos don't finish.

Ignore the crap about bringing them indoors because that's always from people who aren't forced to. Treat preventative for pests and powdery mildew. Silica and citric acid foliar sprays work very well. Read about silica before jumping in with it.

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Thanks. I really battled powdery mildew on one plant, and aphids on the both plants once I brought them inside. Ended up dumping the 3rd plant because it was weak/small, really wasn't going to yield much and was infected with PM.

Cranks said:

Thanks. I really battled powdery mildew on one plant, and aphids on the both plants once I brought them inside. Ended up dumping the 3rd plant because it was weak/small, really wasn't going to yield much and was infected with PM.

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Powdery mildew was a nightmare in Alaska last year. Every possible host plant had it. Came in windows. Every grower I know fought it.

Cranks said:

Thanks for taking the time to give me some advice @OldMedUser!! I will feed them. Your outdoors look awesome!! I did 3 outside this year and had to bring them in and put under lights as I to, am too far north. It was a pain in the ass because my plants were 6ft tall, however I got 3/4 of a pound. That experience and yield started me down this road of growing inside.

Click to expand...

That's why I'm getting into growing feminized autos. In the summer of 2020 I grew some auto fems. Two each of two strains but the only two that autoed grew as males and very small when I took them out and brought them inside to collect pollen. It was one of each strain and I had females indoors of them so made some regular seeds from them. The last two grew as regular plants and when they started to flower in mid Aug one was male so away it went. I built a greenhouse around the last one and even put a heater in there so I could keep it going. Nights down to -15C and it snowed 3X then the wife plugged a water warmer into the same line as the heater and blew the breaker so the plant near froze to death so I cropped it.

Was 5ft tall by then with lots of colas as big as my arm but I think it could have used another 2 weeks to finish up but we were going into much colder weather so I cropped it. The trichomes were all milky and it was a hi-CBD, no THC plant so by what I've read it was as good as it was going to get. I just trimmed off anything without sugar on it and stuffed the buds into tobacco cans sealed with tape and put them in the freezer. I just now have got the glassware I need to make it all into oil for edibles, tonics and topicals. Figure close to a pound dry weight and I got a cutting from her in late veg that I grew out indoors and also froze but have a cutting from that in the grow room to be the mom and will get cuttings from her so I can reverse sex on one and make S1 fem seeds with the others. Still need to send a sample to the lab to see how much CBD she actually has.



After the freeze. 21st of Oct and the autos this last summer were ready and cropped Sept. 11 before the weather went shitty.

Cranks said:

Thanks!! What is RO? EC?
Also what is VPD? I will feed them asap.

Click to expand...

RO is Reverse Osmosis water. Zero or close to it ppm and interchangable with distilled water which is also zero ppm. Tap water can often cause problems due to excess minerals or alkalinity which will remain in the pots after the plants had used the water and build up over many waterings to throw everything off. I only use RO or distilled so I don't have to wonder if some problem with the plants is caused by the water.

EC is Electrical Conductivity measured with a pen usually like for pH. Mineral salts conduct electricity in water and the pen measures how much there is tho it can't tell you how much of each mineral salt separately. PPM pens measure the same thing but express the amount in parts per million. Same thing but different scales like between temps in C or F. Will not properly measure organic nutes as they are not in salt form until bacteria and fungi in the soil have converted them into salts that the plant can eat.



VPD is Vapour Pressure Deficit. As how much moisture in the air at a given temp that is right for best growth of the plants. I'm always way below and if I go as high as charts say I should the walls in my grow room sweat as they are cool.



Another good chart to have and if you carefully read all the clues around the plants it's helpful to zero in on the problem.

Cranks said:

Thanks!! What is RO? EC?
Also what is VPD? I will feed them asap.

Click to expand...

RO- Reverse Osmosis water
EC- Electric Conductivity (feed strength)
VPD- Vapor Pressure Deficit

Cranks said:

One more question: what ph should I be shooting for? I have been having to bring it down as my tap water is 7.5. I have been bringing it down to 6.3. Should I go lower?

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Aim for 6 but 6.3 should be OK. I use RO water and AN's pH Perfect 3-part nutes so don't bother checking pH. Saves a lot of hassle.

Cranks said:

Good evening

Any advice on whats going on with my plants. First time growing indoors.
22 days old, grown from seed, germinated in paper towel, 3 grown in peat pellets, the one that is struggling, put in promix hp.

Soil: Promix HP
Light: Mars TSW2000 300W Dimmable
18" from canopy at 50%
Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients Micro,Grow, Bloom,Calmag.Greenplanet:vitathrive.
Grow tent: 55-60% Humidity
23-25°C

Gave Nutrients at quarter strength when they were 15 days old, Micro Grow Bloom. May have overwatered as they had to go 8 days before soil was ready for more water. Gave them calmag water 2 days ago. They seem to be getting better with the exception of the tiny plant.

Do I need to nutrient every time with promix hp?

Thanks for any input

Click to expand...

I've read over this thread and excuse me if I missed it somewhere but what variety are you plants?

Killaki said:

I've read over this thread and excuse me if I missed it somewhere but what variety are you plants?

Click to expand...

Bruce Banner feminized(not auto flowers)

OldMedUser said:

RO is Reverse Osmosis water. Zero or close to it ppm and interchangable with distilled water which is also zero ppm. Tap water can often cause problems due to excess minerals or alkalinity which will remain in the pots after the plants had used the water and build up over many waterings to throw everything off. I only use RO or distilled so I don't have to wonder if some problem with the plants is caused by the water.

EC is Electrical Conductivity measured with a pen usually like for pH. Mineral salts conduct electricity in water and the pen measures how much there is tho it can't tell you how much of each mineral salt separately. PPM pens measure the same thing but express the amount in parts per million. Same thing but different scales like between temps in C or F. Will not properly measure organic nutes as they are not in salt form until bacteria and fungi in the soil have converted them into salts that the plant can eat.

View attachment 5058176

VPD is Vapour Pressure Deficit. As how much moisture in the air at a given temp that is right for best growth of the plants. I'm always way below and if I go as high as charts say I should the walls in my grow room sweat as they are cool.

View attachment 5058179

Another good chart to have and if you carefully read all the clues around the plants it's helpful to zero in on the problem.

View attachment 5058181

Click to expand...

Thanks for your time, education and these charts. Great info Ladies just woke up an hour ago and have been fed with RO water and 2ml/L of AN.

visajoe1 said:

RO- Reverse Osmosis water
EC- Electric Conductivity (feed strength)
VPD- Vapor Pressure Deficit

Click to expand...

Thanks!!