Helios 3 Light Controller Wiring Help

Rusty Shakelford

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Hey Blades! I acquired a Helios 3 Light Controller for 240v which is great cause I happen to have a 240v outlet that I can tap into,, The problem is that the outlet only has 3 wires in the box (Hot - Ground - Hot or Black - Bare - White if that helps),, and the Helios 3 is looking for 4 Wires,,, Will I need to replace the Wiring in the box or can this be hooked up safely?

My plan was to wire in a Dryer/Range cord and simply plug it into the Outlet.

Any Advice from Electricians would be Mucho Appreciato!!
 
Rusty Shakelford

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Yes, White is HOT in this case, and I will apparently need to pull this old wire and go back with new 4 wire cable (Which Sucks!). BUT, it Should also bring me up to code i guess. At least its a very short run from the box to the outlet.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
chuck estevez said:
if you look at the directions I posted, It lists white as neutral, because the unit has 120 volt plug in and needs a neutral for that to happen.
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I'm talking about his existing receptacle wiring, not controller requirements. It's not a 4 wire 240v feed, thus he needs to pull new wire with a red conductor. White doesn't always indicate neutral is my point, but as a hot leg by code needs be tagged with red or black at terminations / junctions.
 
J.Mike

J.Mike

Member
You are tapping into a 30a receptacle, your light has wiring for 50a, wire light to 50 amp male adapter, get a 50a-->30a adapter easier than replacing electrical
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
J.Mike said:
You are tapping into a 30a receptacle, your light has wiring for 50a, wire light to 50 amp male adapter, get a 50a-->30a adapter easier than replacing electrical
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Regardless of circuit ampacity, he needs a neutral for his application of 120v, does he not?

IF, on a given controller or device, there is no internal requirement for 120v relay coils, timers or the like AND no power is to be provided for external 120v devices, then perhaps the neutral is optional.
 
J.Mike

J.Mike

Member
Rusty Shakelford said:
Controller requires 30 amp not 50. The 8 Light Controller requires the 50 amp.
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Typically, If you have (4) wires, Red Black White Green. you can install into a 50a line, which most
household Dryers do not have, since most run the heating element on one leg, 120v,/motor and timer on the other leg or hot 120v.. Ground, either copper or green shielded,is usually on the dryer or outlet and white is ALWAYS COMMON to complete the circuit, RED always Hot, Black always hot.
I seriously advise that you do not work on high amperage/voltage unless you know the basics of what you are doing. You can ruin your gear by touching the wrong wire to wrong terminal and most companies do not warranty electrical...
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
J.Mike said:
Typically, If you have (4) wires, Red Black White Green. you can install into a 50a line, which most
household Dryers do not have, since most run the heating element on one leg, 120v,/motor and timer on the other leg or hot 120v.. Ground, either copper or green shielded,is usually on the dryer or outlet and white is ALWAYS COMMON to complete the circuit, RED always Hot, Black always hot.
I seriously advise that you do not work on high amperage/voltage unless you know the basics of what you are doing. You can ruin your gear by touching the wrong wire to wrong terminal and most companies do not warranty electrical...
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No. Please delete your post.

White Common? Always?

What gauge wire cu or al would feed a 50 amp circuit? 30a?

Just too much wrong to bother correcting your post.
 
J.Mike

J.Mike

Member
SnapsProvolone said:
No. Please delete your post.

White Common? Always?

What gauge wire cu or al would feed a 50 amp circuit? 30a?

Just too much wrong to bother correcting your post.
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If you are working with 2 hots a common and a ground, usually guaged 10/3-8/3 maybe for a dryer, 3 wire typically for household. Shielded wiring would be black red white, unless improper guaged wiring was used as in 12/2g, in which you would have black white and (shielded) green. Many electricians used bulk 10 and tape the ends the correct color, again black and red being hot, and white and green being common and ground respectively. So BY ALL MEANS BE CORRECT sir, not my lights...but if you want to play electrician, remember its not the volts its the amps...
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
I'm tired of wasting my time correcting wannabe sparkys. As a licensed master electrician with lots of experience, I'm not pretending.

12-2 nb has no green, bare copper and it's not shielded.

50 amp should be #6 copper.

30 amp should be #10 copper.
 
J.Mike

J.Mike

Member
SnapsProvolone said:
I'm tired of wasting my time correcting wannabe sparkys. As a licensed master electrician with lots of experience, I'm not pretending.

12-2 nb has no green, bare copper and it's not shielded.

50 amp should be #6 copper.

30 amp should be #10 copper.
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so as a "master electrician" you recommend wiring to the plug with 12/2 nb, with the moisture/heat rich environment, I would seriously consider using 12/2 ac which has a green shielded ground, or actually 10/3a/c for your 30a, ground to the box, which would likely negate manufactures warranty.

Sorry Rusty ignore my posts, but please read your manufactures specs, and electric is not something you want to take shortcuts on. 1 short doesnt ruin a crop, ruins a home... too many wannabe electricians take shortcuts with improper marking, wiring, load centers etc.to save money at the home owners expense. If you are not sure, check the fusebox and work each wire, wiki and youtube have step-by-step.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
No, you mentioned 12-2. That's 20 amp.

I stated gauges per ampacity above.

You only need the red wire on a 240v when pulling the neutral. The white can be hot but by code needs to be marked w/ red or black at junctions / terminations.

Most of the residential wiring is done with NM, not MC thus I didn't feel that's what the OP has to work with seeing his description includes the bare copper I suspect 10-2 nm was used.
 
Rusty Shakelford

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Just so everyone knows,, This controller requires 30 AMP not 50 AMP so I am not sure how we ended up there. Since the old wiring is only 3 wire (black, white and ground) I am pulling that and installing NEW 4 wire dryer cable (black, red, white & green). I also grabbed a New Outlet and Plug while I was at Home Depot. I have already wired the plug into the Controller, now just need my electrician to come and swap out the cable in the box, so all I have to do is plug in my controller. I could do the swap myself as it doesn't seem like rocket science, and I can see where everything goes, I would just rather someone with more experience take care of it.


Thanks for the help!
 
Heisengrow

Heisengrow

Well-Known Member
J.Mike said:
so as a "master electrician" you recommend wiring to the plug with 12/2 nb, with the moisture/heat rich environment, I would seriously consider using 12/2 ac which has a green shielded ground, or actually 10/3a/c for your 30a, ground to the box, which would likely negate manufactures warranty.

Sorry Rusty ignore my posts, but please read your manufactures specs, and electric is not something you want to take shortcuts on. 1 short doesnt ruin a crop, ruins a home... too many wannabe electricians take shortcuts with improper marking, wiring, load centers etc.to save money at the home owners expense. If you are not sure, check the fusebox and work each wire, wiki and youtube have step-by-step.
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Found this looking to see if the timer on the helios is what use the neutral leg or if it runs on the 110 legs that make the 220.You sir dont have a fukin clue
 
L

learningthebasics27

Active Member
Heisengrow said:
Found this looking to see if the timer on the helios is what use the neutral leg or if it runs on the 110 legs that make the 220.You sir dont have a fukin clue
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Did you ever figure this out? I have a Helios 3 hooked up with all 4 wires and it works perfectly. But I have another Helios 3 with only 3 wires(no neutral) and the timer works, but it’s not on track. Like the timer ticks and moves, but it’s just not going off right when the timer is set
 
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