Did I harvest too early or what guys? Pics

Mystery101

Mystery101

Well-Known Member
I had to harvest..It was taking too long 10weeks..Is it bad or going to effect the potency if I harvest my plants when the hairs are white? Some (30-60%) have white hairs while the rest are amber.. Some guy in another thread said they werent ready BUT I believe they are.. They were flowering for 10 weeks n 1 even turned hermie so I think I should be ok... Heres some pics. Two of the plants are sensi just one got hermed up..
Am I ok? or just worryin too much
 

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Rudiger

Rudiger

Well-Known Member
The focus control on a camera is a pretty handy little item for those closeup shots. From the far away shots, I see quite a lot of white pistils still, and I would have left them for longer myself. but without seeing a closeup, or without a good magnification, it's hard to say.
 
Twistyman

Twistyman

Well-Known Member
Its not the hairs as much as the trichs (crystals)... doesn't look bad from the blurry pics...nice enough tops...
+rep.
 
Mystery101

Mystery101

Well-Known Member
Twistyman said:
Its not the hairs as much as the trichs (crystals)... doesn't look bad from the blurry pics...nice enough tops...
+rep.
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Thats exactly why I chopped.. I saw that the calyxes had "capilated" thc glands.. butnanyways they have been flowering for a long time 10weeks..

QUESTION:
The little banana things that poke out of the calyx with the pistils are hermies? Well they're all over my buds but they are small..Anyone heard of this before?
 
laserbrn

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
Mystery101 said:
Thats exactly why I chopped.. I saw that the calyxes had "capilated" thc glands.. butnanyways they have been flowering for a long time 10weeks..

QUESTION:
The little banana things that poke out of the calyx with the pistils are hermies? Well they're all over my buds but they are small..Anyone heard of this before?
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Do you have a magnifying glass? You should check the trichs...usually a plant will hermie if flower it for too long. There are lots of reasons it could hermie, I'm just saying that they often hermie after an extended flowering.
 
amsterdayum

amsterdayum

Well-Known Member
cant really tell from the pics but at max u harvested what like 2 weeks early depending on the strain if anything ur gunna get more of a head high instead of the couchlock effect, not really a bad thing IMO
 
doggod

doggod

Active Member
Dependds on the strain
Purple erkle 10 weeks
Sour deisel 11-12weeks
I have a plant from vietnam that takes 28 weeks
 
NYC Diesel

NYC Diesel

New Member
As long as the crystals arent clear, you shouldnt be too bad; you could have gone maybe a few days to two weeks longer though. Depending on the strain maybe its supposed to stay that color though. What type of seeds were they?
 
Microracer87

Microracer87

Well-Known Member
weed ages like a fine whine remember that. i'm at like 90% amber hairs but only have a few amber trichromes...soo like wine I'll wait out till about 50/50 :), but that was your call..hermie and slow flowering can also be caused by light leak...you have a nice dark flower area right?
 
Brick Top

Brick Top

New Member
It’s the trichomes you want to go by but even then there is almost no true 100% correct answer to when it is the perfect time to harvest for everyone’s tastes. People will say that you want to wait until they begin to turn amber and some will say some mixture/percentage of milky and amber and some will even say milky and at the first sign of amber and some will say all amber and some will say mostly amber with a few turning brown, though not as many will say wait for anything or much of anything brown.

The thing is that the high will change somewhat and normally, though genetics do play a big part for sure, more milky means a more soaring head high and the more you let them turn amber and then brown the more of a body buzz you get with a lower ceiling/hear high.

Again you do have to keep in mind that genetics will play a major role so you cannot harvest a few days early and turn an indica high into a sativa high but if you wait a day or three to long you will lower the ceiling a bit on any strain.

An example is I grew out a cross that had a high percentage of Haze, a real head high, and one evening I tested it and it had a soaring buzz. I looked at the trichomes closely and they were all milky and decided to look again the next day and if I had to the day after that and as soon as I saw the slightest change to amber I was going to harvest it. That night I had some major pains and went to my Doctor’s the next morning and ended up in the hospital for emergency surgery. Three days later I came home and harvested, the trichomes were mainly amber but some had begun to turn brown and the buzz was good but it was dull and had a lower ceiling than the night I tested it. That is the difference just three days made. I should have harvested that night or if I had not ended up in the hospital harvested the next day and I would have had a soaring high instead of a good high but with more of a body buzz to it than the test had and a lower ceiling/head high.

So my opinion is in the future watch the trichomes closely and once all milky test it and when you test it and if you really like it take it and if you want to wait a day and test it again that’s cool and if you like it more either take it or give it another day and test it again but harvest it when YOU are satisfied with the buzz and NOT according to what anyone else tells you is the very best time to harvest, as in what percentage of milky/amber or amber/brown or whatever they like or believe to be the very best time to harvest is. Experiment a little with a couple of grows and see what YOU like the best and then stick to that.

Something else to consider is that sunlight/lighting somewhat degrades the THC and it regains what is lost over night so it is good to harvest first thing in the day, as early as possible so the sun/light doesn’t have a chance to degrade the THC. Harvesting in the dark, not as in needing a flashlight or anything, but as in before much sunlight or your lights come on will give you the best chance of the most THC.

Another thing to remember is that parts of the plants have to breakdown and the THC will not be at its maximum potency right after or even soon after harvest because some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form so drying and then properly curing your pot will not only make it more potent but also improve the taste and make it smoother. So don’t be in a rush to dry and smoke because you won’t enjoy it as much as if you can wait a while.

While I will not swear that it is the last word on how to do things the information found here is good to know.

http://www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/mj009.htm
 
MJL520

MJL520

Active Member
your pics look good. and your right 10 weeks is a long time. some sativa dominant strains like the Cambodian Haze can take as long as 13 weeks to fully mature. but from the looks of your plants they don't look completely sativa. i would say you made the right choice in cutting them down. Drying and curing can be more crucial to the quality of the final product as oppose to leaving them up a week too long or cutting them down a week early. don't be in a hurry to dry or you can really fuck up the buds. but nice job on the plants!!
 
Brick Top

Brick Top

New Member
MJL520 said:
don't be in a hurry to dry or you can really fuck up the buds. but nice job on the plants!!
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The highlighted part above is very true and can make a big difference in the final results. The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

There is a lot more to it than just that but proper drying and curing is very important to your final results. I never used to believe it made much of a difference and I would somewhat quick dry and smoke. It was good but later I tried to dry some of a harvest at a different rate and cure it and the difference was very noticeable.

Again at the time I did not really believe it would make much of a difference so I kept the top colas and bigger buds to dry and smoke like usual and only did the different technique with the smaller buds and even the popcorn buds but when I smoked them it was like they came from a different plant, a much better plant.

So learn proper drying and curing and force yourself to have the patience to wait for all or at least most of your yield to dry properly and cure properly and you will be very happy you did. If you have to have something to smoke as soon as possible quick dry as little as possible to get you by and do the right thing with the rest and you will be really glad you did.
 
Brick Top

Brick Top

New Member
MJL520 said:
some sativa dominant strains like the Cambodian Haze can take as long as 13 weeks to fully mature.
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Again that can be very true BUT unless you are dealing with a pure strain, a landrace strain, the strain or strains it is crossed with, even though it might still be sativa dominant, can really shorten the flowering time. If you buy from seedbanks if they do not give you a general flowering time in the seed/strain information ask them because I have made the error before of growing very dominant sativa hybrids and just assumed they would need a longer time to mature and when I first looked at thetrichomes they were already mostly or all brown and I blew the grow. It only happened twice but that is more than enough time and effort and money to waste because you just assume something is very sativa dominant and it will take longer to mature so you don’t keep as close of an eye on it around the more common number of weeks for maturing plants.

Get as much information as possible if you can when you pick your strain/hybrid and it will save you from making an error like I have.

I have grown pure sativas that I thought would NEVER mature but just add a little bit of the right indica to the same strain and presto chango that ultra long maturing time can be cut way down even though the plant looks totally or mostly sativa and has a mostly sativa buzz.

That is what really ruined the old 60’s and early 70’s Mexican that many people either have a hard time believing or refuse to believe was damn good. Later growers started to cross indicas with their sativas and they did not learn fast enough that the maturing time would be so greatly reduced and suddenly what had been really good pot at super low prices turned to crap and the Mexican brick-weed era began where it got the reputation of always having been weak and low potency when if you just went back a number of years what used to come from there could and would knock you on your butt and at the time would cost like $10.00 for a lid, not a weighed ounce but a lid where the baggie was so full you could hardly fold over the flap to close it. You would get higher than a kite and a bag would last forever and it was as cheap as dirt. Then the crosses began to be grown and the landrace strains died out and instead of being as cheap as dirt it was about as potent as dirt and often times that came from it being grown to long because the growers were used to such long maturing times and weren’t smart enough to figure things out for a good while.

One of the most important things to learn is what each strain/hybrid you grow needs in nutes and how that changes at different stages of their development and maturing time.

Information, knowledge about that is VITAL and every bit as important as anything else when it comes to growing because if you don’t know what a particular strain/hybrid needs and its general maturing time and then begin to watch it closely when that time is getting close you are in the dark about things that can make or break your grow regardless of all else you may know.
 
H

HIMTattoos

Active Member
Brick Top said:
Again that can be very true BUT unless you are dealing with a pure strain, a landrace strain, the strain or strains it is crossed with, even though it might still be sativa dominant, can really shorten the flowering time. If you buy from seedbanks if they do not give you a general flowering time in the seed/strain information ask them because I have made the error before of growing very dominant sativa hybrids and just assumed they would need a longer time to mature and when I first looked at thetrichomes they were already mostly or all brown and I blew the grow. It only happened twice but that is more than enough time and effort and money to waste because you just assume something is very sativa dominant and it will take longer to mature so you don’t keep as close of an eye on it around the more common number of weeks for maturing plants.

Get as much information as possible if you can when you pick your strain/hybrid and it will save you from making an error like I have.

I have grown pure sativas that I thought would NEVER mature but just add a little bit of the right indica to the same strain and presto chango that ultra long maturing time can be cut way down even though the plant looks totally or mostly sativa and has a mostly sativa buzz.

That is what really ruined the old 60’s and early 70’s Mexican that many people either have a hard time believing or refuse to believe was damn good. Later growers started to cross indicas with their sativas and they did not learn fast enough that the maturing time would be so greatly reduced and suddenly what had been really good pot at super low prices turned to crap and the Mexican brick-weed era began where it got the reputation of always having been weak and low potency when if you just went back a number of years what used to come from there could and would knock you on your butt and at the time would cost like $10.00 for a lid, not a weighed ounce but a lid where the baggie was so full you could hardly fold over the flap to close it. You would get higher than a kite and a bag would last forever and it was as cheap as dirt. Then the crosses began to be grown and the landrace strains died out and instead of being as cheap as dirt it was about as potent as dirt and often times that came from it being grown to long because the growers were used to such long maturing times and weren’t smart enough to figure things out for a good while.

One of the most important things to learn is what each strain/hybrid you grow needs in nutes and how that changes at different stages of their development and maturing time.

Information, knowledge about that is VITAL and every bit as important as anything else when it comes to growing because if you don’t know what a particular strain/hybrid needs and its general maturing time and then begin to watch it closely when that time is getting close you are in the dark about things that can make or break your grow regardless of all else you may know.
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Brick Top +rep both last posts have been huge!
 
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