Brown and orange spots(Gsc first grow)

az2000

Well-Known Member
No problem I appreciate you taking the time to help, do you think it's possible to clone off these plants if I find a leave with no spots?
Yes, that's a good idea. I would have never thought of that. (If someone mentioned it earlier in this thread I didn't see it.).

You have to learn to clone. It's not hard after you've done it. But, it can fail if you get a couple things wrong.

45-degree cut, put directly into water so air doesn't get into the stem, then dip in cloning gel and stick it in a Rapid Rooter. I put the plug in soil (in an 18oz solo cup). Trim 1/3 off the ends of each fan leaf finger. I put a sandwich bag over the top of the cup to create a "dome"). I put it under an existing plant so it get shaded light. Spritz the inside of the bag every couple days to add humidity. After 3-4 days I cut one corner off the bag. After 2-3 more days I cut the other corner off. After 2-4 days I start taking the bag off for a few minutes every day to harden the plants. I pull them out to get a little light.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Hey now that I think of it! They might be fungas gnats! Do they make leaves go orange like that?
I've never seen fungas gnats do direct damage to leaves. Thrips do, but it doesn't look like thrip damae to me.

Fungus gnats cause indirect damage to leaves by their larva eating the roots. The symptoms look like root rot's symptoms (to the leaves).

I don't know if fungus gnats harm plants like that in hydro. Maybe someone else can offer more.
 

ted93

Member
I will grab some root rot chems at my hydro store tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll just start over in soil. It's just hard to tell if it is root rot because they don't smell at all.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I will grab some root rot chems at my hydro store tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll just start over in soil. It's just hard to tell if it is root rot because they don't smell at all.
I don't think it's root rot. It looks like Ca def. Visit growweedeasy and see their "problems by picture" to see the examples of plants with root rot. I don't see that in yours. (It's hard to find their "by pictures" page. They've revamped the site -- for the worse IMO, but maybe I'm averse to change.).

When I mentioned root rot, I was just describing what fungus gnats do (compared to thrips). The symptoms of a serious gnat problem would look like the symptoms of root rot (what you'd see in the leaves and say "what's happening?"). But, I don't see that in your plant.

EDIT: All I can guess about your problem is high pH locking out Ca (and Mg? do I see some of that too in the last pictures?). Maybe your pH pen isn't calibrated.
 

ted93

Member
Must be phosphorus magnesium or calcium. I added more nutes that have high in all three of those.
 

ted93

Member
Do you think I could transplant them in soil successfully and save them? Or should I start over in soil
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Do you think I could transplant them in soil successfully and save them? Or should I start over in soil
If you're asking me, I would prefer a hydro grower answer that question. I'm biased (and wouldn't want to take the rap if your clones fail. I wouldn't want it to look like I encouraged you to do something you might be disappointed in.).
 

blackforest

Well-Known Member
Roots look like they are infected which is extremely common for rdwc grow with no water chiller and/or sterilizer/tea, bennies to combat the onset of pythium. I read through, but didn't see that you were using a sterilizer or a beneficial. If I missed that, please let me know. You are guaranteed to get root problems with water temps above 70 and no preventative solution. I see your ph is at 5.6 and you are using drops to measure. You should only use those as a backup and at least get a cheap ebay pen for $8 and some calibration solution, they do work. With the onset of pythium, it will naturally make the water more acidic lowering the ph and locking out key nutrients. Also, with ppm that low out of the tap, it's a good idea to add some calmag. Ph should be closer to 5.8 (slightly orange/golden color for drops).

You also need to fix your root problem asap. There are several opinions on this btw. My method which has worked several times is to inoculate the system with h202 at 3ml/gal. Then 24 hrs later, do it again. After the 2nd dose of h2o2, give it 24 hrs then change out your water and add hyrdoguard or brew a tea. I've heard of both working in higher water temp dwc applications, but to be honest, it's a lot easier if you have a water chiller to keep the water temps in the mid 60's. Teas and hydroguard are 'good' bacteria that basically consume the food source for the pythium, which prevents it from growing. If it's already prevalent in your system I would advise you to wipe it out first before adding beneficial bacteria's. From my experience it works and makes their job easier. H2o2 is nice because it evaporates rather quickly unlike bleach or other sterilizers. Those are the second option, to run a sterilizer like bleach, h2o2, zone, sm90. Each require regular applications. The bottom line is you must either sterilize or use beneficials to keep root rot under control. They are drooping because they cannot uptake water/nutes due to the roots drowning in rot or the ph of the water being low.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
I was thinking pythium root rot as well based on that medium brown root color. It could be fert staining or algae as algae comes in different colors and even clear like clear snot, but I was leaning toward pythium based on that color. Is 3ml per gallon enough? which h2o2 is used, the 3% drug store stuff or food grade sold in hydro stores at 30%? I'm not sure where pythium comes from or even if this problem is pythium, but one thing is for certain - all that equipment needs to be sterilized or replace to ensure that future grows have less likelihood of developing this problem. and yes, using soil might be a good idea if this can't be solved and prevented in the future. I'd raise the pH to 6.0 and see what happens.
 

WestDenverPioneer

Well-Known Member
growing in soil instead
With soil you'll likely have more pest problems and it could be even more difficult to deal with.
Stick with hydro. Only from failing can you learn and improve.
If your first grow was a success you would think it was easy and never try to get better. (a serious problem in Colorado)

I still think its russet mites. You will need at least 60x power to see them. They are microscopic. They are tiny little maggots crawling around. VERY DIFFICULT to spot for a newbie. You will need to examine the underside of the leaves and the creases where the leaf fingers come together. They are tiny, but you may likely find them as your problem. Eggs should also be visible.
 

ted93

Member
Hey folks, appreciate all the help. Plants recovered well. It turns out it was root rot, I bathed them in hydrogen peroxide and phed water for 48 hours and then put fresh water and nutes. Roots are white again, plant growing again. image.jpeg
 
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