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Either way, it's marketing BS.

This light, much like many other eBay specials, uses poor marketing tactics to sell you a low quality product. The COBS are (probably) capable of 400W, but are only run at 200w. It's a 200w light. Might do better than a 150w hps, who knows.

If that is really a 0-350k ohm pot then it will work, but you will get full power from the driver at 1/3 of a turn. Not very precise at that level. Email Rapid for the full specs. Usually a 10k ohm resistor is recommended to keep the driver at minimum 10% because the HLGs cannot dim to off.

That PWM module should work if you connect a 10-12v DC source to the input and the DIM wires to the output... I think. Anyone else know?

What size? What kind of lights? What medium do you use? Gimme some details man!

I've got Java, and I've also got the Citi calculator, which works fine, but only provides lumens and watts. There are many reasons I went with the 038's for this build, but thanks for the tip.

Hey RIU, Lots of firsts here; first thread, first grow, and first DIY light build. Okay, I've got a two level armoire that we never use and takes up a bunch of space, so I'm going to convert it to a nice little grow cabinet so I can learn the trade and hone my skills before dropping the cash...

Calculator doesn't work for me on Windows 10 on my Yoga, which is technically a tablet. Maybe that's why? Either way, can someone crunch the numbers for me? Looking at running 10 Citi CLU038-1208 @ 35.7v/700ma over a 5.25 Sq ft area.

AFAIK the DIM +/- leads are just a .0001A constant current source. As you increase resistance, voltage increases due to ohms law. You need a 100k ohm potentiometer to get 10V, and thus full power from the driver. The reason for the 10k resistor is to keep minimum power at 10% as the HLG does not...

Go to meanwell's website and download the datasheet, it will show you which pins are which. They're all the same drivers, just different pin layouts. It should work fine as long as you wire it up right.

They're pretty much plug and play. RapidLED has a pretty good install guide on the product page on their site.

I'm not planning on running holders, so that's okay. Trying to keep costs to a minimum on this build and I'm comfortable with soldering. Thanks for the quick reply!

@CobKits you made a recommendation to me a while back to run the 038's rather than the 028's, which I have decided to do in my cab grow. 5 3000k and 5 5000k, both 80 CRI, over a pretty small space. What are your thoughts on this arrangement? Also, at room temp the string of 10 is right at the...

Why so many intake fans? And what are they? I have a cab larger than yours and interior is only about 18 cu. Ft. I'm planning on only running one 120mm exhaust, about 75cfm, on a dimmer. Any reason you've found to need so many fans?

That's a nice safety feature for sure. I was planning on running the StormX as a result of not knowing much about Arduino/Rpi, but the more I think about it, the more I want to go that route. Got any good resources I should check out?

On a somewhat related topic, I was just looking at the tech sheet for the Arctic F8/F12 and it shows fan speed of about 450rpm at 0% pwm with 12v power. With 5v or 7v power, the graph shows 0rpm up to 10%pwm, then the fan kicks on. Does this mean the fan is never actually off with 12v power?

Yeah, I've seen similar products to that, but unless you only want to control the entire fixture at once, you're gonna have to cut the plugs and wire them in anyway. Might as well save some $$/space and use the SSR's, imo. Wiring AC is no different than wiring DC, just make sure it's not plugged...

Meanwell recommends using the relay on the line in, and not to have the unit powered on without a load. I'll just have to use another GPIO to control the relay, StormX has more than I need anyway. Thanks for the advice!

Like this?

So, will this work for a dim-to-off function, or will this pulse the whole fixture on/off with the PWM signal?