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Great points, thanks Cobby

That's why I went with 10 CLU038s instead of 4 1818 or 5 1212 048s in my small cab. That's one of the best benefits of LED imo.

What COBs are you getting 200 lm/w out of?

Running in series, like most DIYers, what's the advantage over CC?

They have 560mm strips as well... about 22" OR you could use 3 280mm strips for a total of about 33".

@CobKits man, you and CV drivers have a thing goin on huh?

You would need a lot of lasers... the goal is to hit between 600-1000 ppfd for the average grower. How many diodes did they use for this test?

Oh, I should probably mention that all you have to do is enter your numbers into the white fields and the calc will give you all kinds of useful info. Not just heat sink stats, but some useful electrical info as well.

Thanks! That's a great idea, I'll have to start collecting data for those as well.

Hey RIU, I stole Supra's HSUSA table format and made it a bit... sexier. Also, added some functionality to help those of us that use this style of heat sink. This calculator should help you decide what profile to pick if you are considering this route. I'm no expert, and I would love someone...

lol

I posted some pics of this light in the Microgrow forum, but I figured I would share here as well. I built this light to suit my small cabinet with interior dimensions of about 18" x 38". Using an HLG240H-C700B to power all 10 in series. 100% driver utilization! I went with the 7.984" heat...

Check out Sparkfun for tons of tutorials on how to best utilize arduino. Edit: the video you posted is an exact guide for what we are talking about here, just taking it a step further by controlling the whole outlet instead of just one component.

Yes, ground and neutral bypass the relay. The relay is only there to make or break a connection with the "line" (hot) connection. The other side of the relay is tied to an output pin and the ground pin on the arduino to make a complete control circuit. Think of the arduino as the "switch" and...

Thanks! I spent months researching and designing this thing. I hope I can get some quality product out of it!

After I finished prepping the grow space, I started in on the light and the wiring. I picked up a 32" piece of 7.984" profile from Heatsink USA, which has barely enough room for an M3 screw to fit between the fins. I started by drilling and tapping the heat sink for the COBs. This $65 Harbor...

Progress! And pics! So this is what I started with, pretty beat up and definitely under-utilized. Time to get to work! First step was to add these cool hinges to the front side so I could remove the old slidey-hinge mechanisms. Next up was to strip the old hardware and supports out to...

Ah, sweet. Thanks!

Thanks for the heads-up, I wasn't aware. That's great to know, opens up some options for me. The load side of the relay gets tied into the AC line-in for the driver, the switch side gets tied to the output/ground pins on the Arduino. Boom, you no longer need an external timer. As @CobKits...

The simplest way to do it would be to use one of the PWM pins on the Arduino in combo with a transistor and resistor for dimming and one of the analog pins to control a solid-state relay for the on/off. This will only work with the B model, though I guess you could rig up a servo and a...