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I keep it kinda simple with the K. Kelp meal that I buy in 50# bags. Thorvin organic. Greensand (when I can afford it)), added either to the mix or, added to the worm bins. Not for the worms per se, but to get a start on the breakdown. DynaGro Protekt, about 1/4 to 1/2 tsp/gallon of water for...

Do the seeds in a seed starting mix with no neem. *I* use 1cup/cf bone meal with the 1/2 cup neem and 1/2 cup kelp meal. 1/2 cup MBF. I'd ditch the cover crop for the moment, but DO start a worm bin. The fresh VC will add worms to the pots with the cocoons in the VC.

Split the fresh among the 20g pots and use the store bought for teas.

You really need to research a bit more as you seem to be setting yourself up for a not good experience. First the "I will be planting 4 seeds directly into this mix". Check out the detrimental effects of neem on seeds, seedlings and young plants. It's not pretty. VOE on that. Where is your P...

I'd really suggest a blend of RW and Euros, 1/2 of each. This combo has worked well for me the last 5 years or so. Most worm places offer this combo, just check around. Richard D is correct, get the bin set up a couple of weeks before ordering the worms and get something rotting in there.

Yeah, it's a bit late. I would strongly suggest finishing this grow the way you started, Happy Frog, liquid nutes and all. Then, plan ahead with the organic route for the next grow and do it right. Trying to switch up in the middle of a grow pretty much never works out well. You know, you can...

OP I'm confused and need to get straight before I can offer anything. Ok, your worms died a couple months after adding to the soil mix. The worms in the soil mix? Like, in the growing container with the plant? In the worm bin itself? Explain the circumstances a little clearer. I have 3 main...

No, not laughing. Just hate to see people overspend when cheaper alternatives are available. No Lowes or HD or feed store within a reasonable distance? Ace hardware or WalMart? A free 'ship to store' is usually offered. The local feed store is small, but can get stuff in on his weekly truck...

In that case, your drops are not giving you an accurate reading, just that simple. Sigh, guess I'll have to dig out the Ol Milwaukee SM-101, make sure the battery's still good and re calibrate it. I do have calibration fluids. If all that happens, I'll snag a gallon of distilled when I do my...

Distilled water is boiled off and the vapor/steam is condensed back into pure water, just like removing alchohol from the mash in whiskey making. Thus the neutral pH of 7.0 and the zero ppm. It's also considered a 'dead' water, since there is nothing in it. The google read is pretty informative.

Google distilled water pH and you will get the whole low down. Seriously Something is way off if a new jug of distilled is not 7.0, or extremely close to that.

No, it can't be 6. However, once opened, contact with the air will form a mild carbonic acid deal and lower the pH some, but I doubt it would lower it a full point. That's why I keep a fresh gallon around. I also really check pH once or twice a year. The way pH fluctuates in organic soil...

IDK about ppm either, but the 7.0 pH requirement is spot on.

The water MUST be neutral (pH 7.0) to get any sort of accurate reading. IDK about ppm's, but distilled covers both the 7.0 pH and 0 ppm. A gallon cost under $1 and I keep an unopened jug around for accurate testing.

My experience also. +1 Btw, raw mushrooms are full of chitin. Collect in the wild, or ask the produce guy just where they dump the produce that has gone bad. VC containes chitinase (sp?), so again, your worm bin has you covered. In both cases, free, or nearly so and no shipping expense.

@im4satori AFA the 'chunky' oyster shell, if it's the 'chicken scratch' stuff like I tried, I totally disregarded it when adding the dolomite lime. I had added some to my worm bedding and was still finding chunks that looked like freshly added over 3 years later. I always add some old bedding...

Just a quick FYI on that 'slow release' pellitized lime that you will never go back to. The pellitized or 'prilled' lime (and my gypsum to boot), IS powdered/pulverized in a fast dissolving binder, that dissolves, usually with the first watering, releasing the lime.. This is done for easier...

Yeah, my basic mix now +/- is: Peat moss -- 40% Perlite -- 40% Humus -- 20% That 20% is ~1/2 VC and 1/2 pine bark fines. The bark acts as aeration at first (bumping the total aeration tp ~50%) and breaks down to humus over a couple years time. The VC varies to the bin used. Some, that haven't...

im4satori Mesh size is everything with liming agents (mesh size = how finely the material is ground/pulverized) I mean there are limestone structures dating back over several thousand years (BC era, Rome), and oyster shell mounds in Fl dated to at least 3,000 years old. It's not something that...

^^^THAT Calcium carbonate is calcium carbonate, is calcium carbonate, no matter the source.