Should i fight PM?

B

blind72

Member
got PM on some clones there about a foot tall now. went to get green cure tried that now about 2 weeks later its coming back on some plants. Should i get eagle 20 and try fighting it or start over? :confused:
 
hoonry

hoonry

Well-Known Member
please DO NOT use Eagle 20! there's a wide array of products you can use that are much safer - neem oil, hydrogen peroxide, sulfur, to name just a few - eagle 20 is toxic shit man! the worst part of it is that I've seen plants treated with it still get it anyway - if yer environment sucks pm will thrive no matter what you do. I've seen clones of the same strain grown in two different places - a marshy area and dusty dry clay - the clones in the marsh got pm and the ones in clay did not, or barely got it if they did.
 
B

blind72

Member
thanks for the info, i have neem oil will give that a try.

my airflow in my veg room needs to be upgraded

so if i stop PM, it should not come back right its not something im going to be fighting tell its done.
what i have been reading is that PM is a virus and it cant really be killed just controlled so with my clones
being so young not sure if its worth it. my first grow did fine no PM but they started from seed i got the clones
from a friend and i think they got it from there just did not no what PM was at the time so did not know what to look for.
 
420mon

420mon

Well-Known Member
It will com back as soon as you stop neeming or when conditions are right. Yes you must watch for it until it is done, you are correct PM is a virus and can only be kept at bay by treatment.....Neem once a week will keep it away, but gets tricky and time consuming once flowering. If you spray once a week you shouldn't see it again, then the last 2-3 weeks try not to get too much on the buds cuz , it makes the hairs turn "orange" on the bud before their time etc... , try to keep off the buds and get the stalk and fan leaves real good so it "soaks" into plant while the lights are off.
 
420mon

420mon

Well-Known Member
plant pathogens are usually fungi [FONT=arial, sans-serif]or viruses[/FONT]

[FONT=arial, sans-serif]You are correct, the actual PM is fungi but Mon believe the plant itself after being infected and showing no signs of PM still carries it even if it does not show thus being infected like a virus?[/FONT]
 
C

charlie230

Active Member
neem oil, derived from the nuts of the neem tree, found in india, & cinnimate ,derived from the cinnamon tree, mixed together are great for mites & powdery mildew ...these r both natural & safe to use .. spray once a wk to keep thinks in check .. for mites, use every 3 days for 2 wks , so u can kill the hatching eggs .. gd luck .................................
 
lamopa

lamopa

Active Member
blind72 said:
got PM on some clones there about a foot tall now. went to get green cure tried that now about 2 weeks later its coming back on some plants. Should i get eagle 20 and try fighting it or start over? :confused:
Click to expand...
Def. fight it. Do you have a temp/humidity gauge for your your room? These are a necessity and not that expensive. I think I bought mine off Amazon for $20. Keep that humidity low and use some deem, but sparingly. First try controlling that humidity.
 
hexthat

hexthat

Well-Known Member
420mon said:
plant pathogens are usually fungi or viruses

You are correct, the actual PM is fungi but Mon believe the plant itself after being infected and showing no signs of PM still carries it even if it does not show thus being infected like a virus?
Click to expand...
yeah im told it lives inside the plant and when the mold flowers thats when you actually see the white stuff
 
hexthat

hexthat

Well-Known Member
spitsbuds said:
1 to 1o ratio of milk and water
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/how-grow-marijuana/72170-how-do-i-recognize-control-prevent-powdery-mildew.html
Click to expand...
420magazine.com said:
How do I Recognize, Control, and Prevent Powdery Mildew?
Introduction:
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.

Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.

Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.

This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.

Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.

These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.

Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.

Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.

Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.

Preventive gardening:
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.

Maintain healthy plants. Stressed plants are often attacked first, so it is important to monitor and remove unhealthy plants.

Detection. Inspect corners, edge and lower portions of the garden frequently. Remove infected leaves, or move infected plants out of the main garden.

Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity (thnx dutchmaster).

Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces, and blow air to these areas.

Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.

Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.

Harvest early if mildew is a problem.

Environmental control:
Improving growroom conditions is an excellent way to passively prevent and minimize damage by powdery mildew.

Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs.

Ventilation. Constant air movement inhibits mildew, and lowers humidity. Use oscillating fans on all sides of a garden to circulate the air. Ventilate air out of the grow room periodically during the night cycle to reduce humidity from irrigation and transpiration.

Note: Once mildew is established, oscillating fans may actually spread spores throughout the garden. Stop fans, treat infected areas, and then resume airflow.

Heat night air. Warm air holds more moisture than colder air. Heat helps dry the air and lower humidity during the night cycle. Heat the room at night and exhaust the room periodically to remove this warm/moist air.

Dehumidifier.Very effective in preventing mildew from spreading. Set controls for 40-60% and let run during night cycle.

Hepa filter. Filter the intake with a Hepa filter to eliminate spores from entering room. Inspect and change filter frequently.

Ionizer / Ozone generators. Leak some output to kill airborne pathogens and spores.

* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree.

Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention.

Chemical control:
Note: Chemical information sourced from maximumyield.com and cannibisculture.com

Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions.

Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option.
Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!

* Alkaline water:
Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot.

[Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]

Baking soda: Sodium Bicarbonate
"Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied.
Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon

Potassium Bicarbonate:
"Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.

Garden sulphur:
A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds!

Foliar spray:
15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying.
Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.

Neem Oil:
Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days.

Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon)
”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline.

Foliar spray: 1 part in 5

SM90:
A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base.

Foliar spray: 10ml/liter

Copper Sulphate:
"Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium."
Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued.

Benomyl: Apply in veg only.

Malatox:
by the chronic:
…”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.”
Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.

Biological controls:

Unpasterized milk:
Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.

AQ10:
A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.

Plant Shield:
Plant Shield is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.

Serenade:
"The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide.​
Click to expand...
i like to eliminate external links..... very nice info
 
thegreensurfer

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
Control the environment, not the symptoms.
Often times the conditions for pm are ideal during the nighttime. If leaves happen to overlap, then the transpiration coming from the underside of one leaf will condense water on the surface of another leaf right below it. If you have ever seen water drops on your leaves when you have not sprayed anything recently this is what you are witnessing.
The spores love these little dark moist areas to establish, don't let them.
This is why airflow is so important, you want to disturb the leaves so they don't have a chance to sit on one another.
 
Ballsonrawls

Ballsonrawls

Well-Known Member
shits systemic. so watch it like a hawk if you keep them. it'll keep coming back if its not constantly monitored.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top