lights that are cooled?? HOW.........

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
i guess, IDK, im the worst person to ask. me i dont see whats wrong with useing a AC system, if a fan cooled light work good then an ac cooled light will work gr8, with a fan pulling the ac air over the light
just connect the blower to the light via ducting but place the ac in a room out side the grow room
 

AquafinaOrbit

Well-Known Member
/\That's the idea behind the homemade ACs, only it's cheaper and does not drip water. Of course it's more work though. A deep freeze would work, but then you get into issues about if it's actually cheaper/more efficient then an AC.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
i guess, IDK, im the worst person to ask. me i dont see whats wrong with useing a AC system, if a fan cooled light work good then an ac cooled light will work gr8, with a fan pulling the ac air over the light
just connect the blower to the light via ducting but place the ac in a room out side the grow room
:eyesmoke::eyesmoke:... it was your idea to use the freezer, i found u one lol

i say there is nothin wrong with using a a/c to cool your room, but ive never heard anyone "connecting the a/c blower to the light via ducting" it wouldnt really work since the cold a/c air would just get hot by the time it ran threw the first light... the cost of running the a/c is too high for the amount of cooling it would provide.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
and somehow a chiller would be diff.
its the exact opposite.... the ice boxes chill the air leaving the reflector.
...not entering it.

and they re-cool the air at as many spots as you want along the way... like after every light for example.
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
its the exact opposite.... the ice boxes chill the air leaving the reflector.
...not entering it.

and they re-cool the air at as many spots as you want along the way... like after every light for example.
well do this with the ac air
 

AquafinaOrbit

Well-Known Member
A chiller and AC unit would be virtually the same thing except in terms of functionality. Ice does not magically cool in your freezer, the unit has to work very hard to achieve temperatures that low and exchange the warmth in the water for cold air. AC on the other hand does basically the same thing except it's real time and does it with air. Where you apply the cold air is your choice, but of course if the air blowing over the bulb is chilled it would help room temperatures. Not just if you chill the exiting air. (A bulb only puts out so many BTUs of heat, and with an active airflow it wouldn't have time to fully heat the cold air up, so the colder the intake air the colder the outake air would be. )
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
A chiller and AC unit would be virtually the same thing except in terms of functionality. Ice does not magically cool in your freezer, the unit has to work very hard to achieve temperatures that low and exchange the warmth in the water for cold air. AC on the other hand does basically the same thing except it's real time and does it with air. Where you apply the cold air is your choice, but of course if the air blowing over the bulb is chilled it would help room temperatures. Not just if you chill the exiting air. (A bulb only puts out so many BTUs of heat, and with an active airflow it wouldn't have time to fully heat the cold air up, so the colder the intake air the colder the outake air would be. )
now thats what i would have said +rep
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
if air is being forced through cooled coils ITS A/C

Window and Split-system AC Units



A window air conditioner unit implements a complete air conditioner in a small space. The units are made small enough to fit into a standard window frame. You close the window down on the unit, plug it in and turn it on to get cool air. If you take the cover off of an unplugged window unit, you'll find that it contains:
  • A compressor
  • An expansion valve
  • A hot coil (on the outside)
  • A chilled coil (on the inside)
  • Two fans
  • A control unit
The fans blow air over the coils to improve their ability to dissipate heat (to the outside air) and cold (to the room being cooled).


this split system is what the guy in the video is basicly useing



the water is cooled out side the house then pumped to coils in the forced air unit

Chilled-water and Cooling-tower AC Units

In a chilled-water system, the entire air conditioner lives on the roof or behind the building. It cools water to between 40 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 and 7.2 degrees Celsius). This chilled water is then piped throughout the building and connected to air handlers as needed. There's no practical limit to the length of a chilled-water pipe if it's well-insulated.

You can see in this diagram that the air conditioner (on the left) is completely standard. The heat exchanger lets the cold Freon chill the water that runs throughout the building.


In all of the systems described earlier, air is used to dissipate the heat from the outside coil. In large systems, the efficiency can be improved significantly by using a cooling tower. The cooling tower creates a stream of lower-temperature water. This water runs through a heat exchanger and cools the hot coils of the air conditioner unit. It costs more to buy the system initially, but the energy savings can be significant over time (especially in areas with low humidity), so the system pays for itself fairly quickly.
  1. Cooling towers come in all shapes and sizes. They all work on the same principle:
  2. A cooling tower blows air through a stream of water so that some of the water evaporates.
  3. Generally, the water trickles through a thick sheet of open plastic mesh.
  4. Air blows through the mesh at right angles to the water flow.
  5. The evaporation cools the stream of water.
  6. Because some of the water is lost to evaporation, the cooling tower constantly adds water to the system to make up the difference.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
A chiller and AC unit would be virtually the same thing except in terms of functionality. Ice does not magically cool in your freezer, the unit has to work very hard to achieve temperatures that low and exchange the warmth in the water for cold air. AC on the other hand does basically the same thing except it's real time and does it with air. Where you apply the cold air is your choice, but of course if the air blowing over the bulb is chilled it would help room temperatures. Not just if you chill the exiting air. (A bulb only puts out so many BTUs of heat, and with an active airflow it wouldn't have time to fully heat the cold air up, so the colder the intake air the colder the outake air would be. )
yea a chiller and a/c are the same thing almost except there are some major differences in how the two cool the room.

the a/c blows cooled air into the room at one spot and then you rely on oscillating fans to mix the cold air with the heat in your room that is put off by your lights, (not very efficient)

the ice boxes cool the air right at the heat source, never allowing the heat to even enter the room.

btu for btu the chillers and A/C use the same amount of power but you only have one inlet blowing cold air in when you use a A/C... and when you use a chiller, you can run a bunch of ice boxes anywhere you want another cold air vent... you can mount some to your wall blowing cold air on your plants at the same time you are cooling each individual bulb with others...

show me a a/c that has 8 cold air exhausts and only pulls 10 amps and i will listen.

the guy in the youtube video explains it pretty well and the air comming out of 3 k lights is 58 degrees!! that just cant be done with a/c period.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
dude, i still dont understand how you are going to cool the air leaving each reflector with a a/c unit??? how?
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
they cost a lot more than a/c units and they are new...here ya go...again...

i just dont understand how anyone could watch this video and think that their a/c unit could cool the lights better?? 58 degree exhaust...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0uRrMvfucY&feature=related

and....

a safe and very efficient way to water-cool your entire grow room! The Ice Box is an effective way to water-cool the air leaving your reflectors without adding a/c or more fans. It uses a water to air heat exchanger to water cool the hot air your reflectors produce.
Water-cooling is much more effective and efficient than air-cooling, here's some science to prove it: Water has a thermal conductivity of 0.6 W/ (m*K) which is much higher than the thermal conductivity of air which is only 0.03 W/(m*K). Water also has a much higher specific heat capacity than air. What that means is water can absorb and remove 4 times the heat from your garden nearly 20 times faster than air!
We aren't just talking about air cooling your reflectors, this goes for your air conditioning system too. Once heat is released in to your room, the ability to efficiently remove that heat is lost. Air is only cooled with electricity whereas water can be cooled in dozens of ways with little or no energy. Further more only 30% of the energy used in air conditioning is converted into usable cooling power, the rest is wasted. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that water-cooling will reduce your electricity bill... making your grow room a much happier place for you and your plants.
In addition to cooling the heat from all those miniature suns we have in our grow rooms, if the water running through the Ice Box is cold enough, it can actually add supplemental air conditioning to your room, making them great for every operation from hut to warehouse.



Here's how it works:





The Ice Box design consists of a copper heat exchanger with a molded plastic housing. One side of the housing is designed to slip over a duct flange and the other side is designed to attach to your existing air ducting to run to an inline fan.
Air from your room is pulled through your reflector, just as it is now, and then over the Ice Box heat exchanger before exiting right back into the room. Cold water is circulated through the Ice Box, drawing the heat from the air before it exits. And a little bonus for all of us, with this device there is no need for air to enter or leave the growing environment, improving CO2 efficiency and reducing the introduction of pests, fungi, etc. Increased CO2 efficiency means lower costs for CO2 production and, for those of us burning gas to create CO2, even more control over heat production since we're not having an open flame in our rooms for quite as many hours a day.
To adequately cool the air flow from a 1000 watt bulb, the circulated water only needs to be 10 degrees cooler than the ambient temperature in your room. So if you want to maintain a room temperature of 75 degrees, your water temperature only needs to be 65 degrees for the air temperature entering the reflector to be the same as the air temperature exiting the reflector. If you want to add supplemental air conditioning to your room, bring the water temperature down by more than 10 degrees and when it exits your reflector it will be cooler than the room itself. To cool the water you would need 1/4 hp minimum per 1000 watt reflector-yes, chillers use energy but not as much energy as a/c! Remember how much more efficient water cooling is over air. If additional cooling is needed for harsh environments the Ice Box itself can also be easily daisy chained for cooling power that is doubled, tripled, quadrupled. You get the picture.


Features:

  • Engineered for maximum efficiency
  • Allows you to keep a sealed room which keeps your CO2 in and pests and pathogens out
  • Water approximately 10 degrees cooler than the room temp will eliminate the bulb heat from a 1000 watt lamp
  • Water approximately 20 degrees cooler than the room temp will reduce or even eliminate the need for a/c
  • Can be connected directly to the reflector or can be wall mounted with optional wall mount kit


Recommendations / Equipment Needed:



  • For proper function the Ice Box must be installed on the exiting air duct flange, not the incoming air!
  • Air-cooled reflector and inline fan with approximately 250 CFM for maximum efficiency
  • Reflectors can be daisy chained using one fan as long as each reflector gets a minimum airflow of 250 CFM
  • Pump sized at 300-500 GPH with 8-10 feet of lift/head pressure
  • Chiller size per 1000 watts: 1/4HP Minimum, 1/3HP Optimal
  • With properly sized chiller, reservoir size of 25 gallons is sufficient for almost any set up
  • For optimal performance use one IceBox per reflector
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
this is the ac room i hypothesize
600w light
build in a room that is in a room.
the grow room is completly sealed off, co2 pumped in, the ac sit in a window thats out side the growroom, the ac is being ducted in via inline duct fan, and the exhaust is being pulled via a inline duct fan- the ac is only for the lights - the exhausted hot air is being recooled back through the ac intake
 

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jberry

Well-Known Member
yea, it would probably work for one 600 w or you could just buy a dual exhaust a/c and cool your room instead of your light, and then just use a 6" fan to cool your lights.

i just dont think those window a/c are made for hooking up ducting to, and it might not work well if u did more than one light...

maybe this would work a little better for what your thinking:

http://www.anytime-rentals.com/images/dualport.jpg

http://gadgetryreport.com/files/2009/04/axunit.jpg

http://www.hydrofarm.com/image.php?image=/i/jpg/ACAC12_24713.jpg
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
i gat one of those
they dont work worth shit and those hose are heat exhaust
and you have to dump out water ever day or it will shut off
for some reason water bulds upin it

but window ac units they blow that air and they also are cheaper
if you can retro fit an duct to it some how you maybe even can get the leave touching the glass
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
idk man i personally dont think its a very effecient method in general, but like i said, im sure it would work for one light, but i personally would only run a a/c that big if i had mulltible lights... im sure that window a/c draws a lot more power than your 600 watt light and that doesnt seem like a good move... plus you would have to rig the hell out of it to attach ducting to the a/c vent somehow.

have you ever seen anyone do this??

if you do it than let us know how it works...
goodluck.
 

uptosumpn

Well-Known Member
personally I just think it makes more sense to use the icebox to cool your lights heat as well as use another to cool the surrounding room..(that's if you using a 1000hps of course) Sure it will cost more up front, but in the long run you will more than make back up what you spent and wayyy more!!! REMEMBER THE MORE LIGHTS YOU GIVE YA GIRLS THE MORE DENSE BUDS YOU GET WEATHER YOUR GROWING AUTOS OR REG. EXOTICS STRAINS...THE MORE YOU CAN COOL THE HOT AIR LEAVING THE REFLECTORS AND THE SURROUNDING ROOM AT THE SAME TIME THE MORE LIGHTS YOU CAN HAVE, THE MORE HAPPIER, BIGGER YOUR PLANTS WILL BE THE MORE HAPPIER YOU WILL BE!!!! PERIOD!
 
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