Commen re occuring nutrient deficiency/excess or potential pH issue

jaked3800

Active Member
Also with the strains that have the issue need to we watered every 4ish days where the healthy ones are 3ish days but I was just associating that with strain type. Plants are all about the same size.
 

jaked3800

Active Member
Ahh... well, that's something you need to discuss with @PadawanWarrior ... he's an all organic Earth Twat. (using caution here)
LOL Im all ears @PadawanWarrior
About the pH, Like i said it comes out at like 5.4ish after all mixed in but if it sits for 10-12 hours with an air stone it comes up to 6.2 ish .
Would you just mix it half a day before water or just use a pH up product like the calcium carbonate (olympis up from nectar of the gods?
As I cant get the Biobizz pH up in the US, would love to as its humic acid based.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
LOL Im all ears @PadawanWarrior
About the pH, Like i said it comes out at like 5.4ish after all mixed in but if it sits for 10-12 hours with an air stone it comes up to 6.2 ish .
Would you just mix it half a day before water or just use a pH up product like the calcium carbonate (olympis up from nectar of the gods?
As I cant get the Biobizz pH up in the US, would love to as its humic acid based.
I haven't used any of the stuff you're using, but my guess is low soil pH. Doesn't sound like BioBizz Light has much in it to keep the pH stable, but I've never used it.

Adding some EWC from the beginning would've helped, but you can always top dress or make a tea with EWC and the molasses you have.
 

jaked3800

Active Member
I haven't used any of the stuff you're using, but my guess is low soil pH. Doesn't sound like BioBizz Light has much in it to keep the pH stable, but I've never used it.

Adding some EWC from the beginning would've helped, but you can always top dress or make a tea with EWC and the molasses you have.
Yeah its a prety bare peat, has a bit of dolomite lime in it. And I do budswell (bat and seabird guano) tea. But no EWC. The worm castings help with pH buffering or what?
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Hell ya. My family use to collect money from everyone and my dad and I would go to the Indian Reservation every year and we'd bring back boxes of stuff for a big fireworks display for just us. The FD was cool because my uncle was a fire chief in another county and they talked to them first.

Anyways we went to the same lady everytime. One year we didn't show up at the normal time and she brought me a big box of shit, :bigjoint:

I like big Booms and I cannot lie, :lol:
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Yeah its a prety bare peat, has a bit of dolomite lime in it. And I do budswell (bat and seabird guano) tea. But no EWC. The worm castings help with pH buffering or what?
Ya. EWC will help buffer the pH. You could give powdered microbes too that will help buffer the pH. But I'd check what your actual soil pH is if you can.
 

jaked3800

Active Member
Ya. EWC will help buffer the pH. You could give powdered microbes too that will help buffer the pH. But I'd check what your actual soil pH is if you can.
I have the blue lab soil pH probe and shoved it in after last watering and it was low. Like 5.4 but I dont think its that accurate in the medium because I feel like the plants would be in way worse shape as even the 100% healthy plants are that low. Its fresh peat with dolomite in it to buffer aswell as all the microbes im adding to it. But maybe it is the issue? I just hate adding the pH up as its all calcium. But maybe Ill hit it with a 6.7 tomorrow on my watering. Ive been hitting it with 6.1ish to all my previous waterings.

Really apreaciate your input
 
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PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I have the blue lab soil pH probe and shoved it in after last watering and it was low. Like 5.4 but I dont think its that accurate in the medium because I feel like the plants would be in way worse shape as even the 100% healthy plants are that low. Its fresh peat with dolomite in it to buffer aswell as all the microbes im adding to it. But maybe it is the issue? I just hate adding the pH down as its all calcium. But maybe Ill hit it with a 6.7 tomorrow on my watering. Ive been hitting it with 6.1ish to all my previous waterings.

Really apreaciate your input
Don't add pH down. Oh, I think you meant up, but whatever. Anyways I would bump that medium pH up. Organics do better around 6.2-6.8. If your medium pH is 5.4 that's a little low.

Check this out too. This is a good thread.

 
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Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
I have the blue lab soil pH probe and shoved it in after last watering and it was low. Like 5.4 but I dont think its that accurate in the medium because I feel like the plants would be in way worse shape as even the 100% healthy plants are that low. Its fresh peat with dolomite in it to buffer aswell as all the microbes im adding to it. But maybe it is the issue? I just hate adding the pH down as its all calcium. But maybe Ill hit it with a 6.7 tomorrow on my watering. Ive been hitting it with 6.1ish to all my previous waterings.

Really apreaciate your input
Readings are accurate since you are in classic soilless potting mix. It has nothing in common with “soil”. They are ussually comming 5,5 fresh out of bag, peat, perlite, dolomite,slightly prefertilized. Stop chasing non sense pH numbers, stop using pH down, mix your nutrient solution and feed, next day water next day food. Assuming you have properly sized pot not sitting in runoff. Your perfect range is 5,8-6,2 but 5,4 is not so bad. Good luck!
 

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
It could be a lot of things. When I first looked at the pics I thought it was the beginning of "phosphorus burn". I don't know if that is the correct diagnosis but I used to get the rusty and crispy leaves when going too heavy on the bloom nutes. It looks a little rustier than leaves with PH issues.
 

jaked3800

Active Member
Readings are accurate since you are in classic soilless potting mix. It has nothing in common with “soil”. They are ussually comming 5,5 fresh out of bag, peat, perlite, dolomite,slightly prefertilized. Stop chasing non sense pH numbers, stop using pH down, mix your nutrient solution and feed, next day water next day food. Assuming you have properly sized pot not sitting in runoff. Your perfect range is 5,8-6,2 but 5,4 is not so bad. Good luck!
Your saying mix my nutes, let the pH rise in my resivoir and then water with out adding an pH up? (I meant to say pH up in my previous post not down)




Don't add pH down. Oh, I think you meant up, but whatever. Anyways I would bump that medium pH up. Organics do better around 6.2-6.8. If your medium pH is 5.4 that's a little low.

Check this out too. This is a good thread.

Yes I did mean pH up. I cant really acuratly bump up the soil medium pH acuratly/ have never done so. Im thinking I will just pH up with the nectar of the gods olympus Up (calcium carbonate) to like 7.2 ish like the dude in the post you reffered me to did, but hes in coco with salts I believe so we will see.
 

jaked3800

Active Member
I just watered after pHing up to 7.2 and took some soil readings about 20 minutse post water with very minimul change in readings. Maybe moved up .01 -0.2 on average I will check when lights come on in 6 hours
 

HydoDan

Well-Known Member
I just watered after pHing up to 7.2 and took some soil readings about 20 minutse post water with very minimul change in readings. Maybe moved up .01 -0.2 on average I will check when lights come on in 6 hours
Just water at a constant 6.5 it takes time for ph to stabilize. Chasing ph is a road you don't want to go down. Patience!
 
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