11/13 instead of 12/12 flowering time
- Thread starter kingzt
- Start date
kingzt
Well-Known Member
Awesome, I read that it might be better for sativas because it could cut down some flowering time
fskitch
Well-Known Member
It didn’t cut down on flower time for the two hybrids mentioned above but I’ve heard the same on reduced flower time for sativas as well.
StareCase
Well-Known Member
I also read that 11/13 rocks - so I've done both 11/13 grows and 12/12 grows. I didn't find much difference in final product to be honest.
As for enhancing genetic traits of the plants, I found going from a blurple to an HLG brought out much more of the characteristics than the reducing the lights on time.
As for enhancing genetic traits of the plants, I found going from a blurple to an HLG brought out much more of the characteristics than the reducing the lights on time.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
What about a gradual reduction in on time as the flowering develops. Something like this? Just hit 4 weeks today. At 12/12 currently.
Flower light 10 week bloom
Weeks 1-2: Set your timer for 11 hours on and 13 hours off.
Weeks 3-4: Set your timer for 10.5 hours on and 13.5 hours off.
Weeks 5-6: Set timers on for 10 hours and off for 14 hours.
Weeks 7-8: 9.5 hours on and 14.5 hours off.
Week 9:-10: 9 hours on and 15 hours off.
Flower light 10 week bloom
Weeks 1-2: Set your timer for 11 hours on and 13 hours off.
Weeks 3-4: Set your timer for 10.5 hours on and 13.5 hours off.
Weeks 5-6: Set timers on for 10 hours and off for 14 hours.
Weeks 7-8: 9.5 hours on and 14.5 hours off.
Week 9:-10: 9 hours on and 15 hours off.
StareCase
Well-Known Member
That will grow you some weed. And would save a little bit on the monthly electric bills.
But I personally found that the best results were with the normal 12/12 flower cycle. Gradually reducing the lights on times didn't produce anything significantly better than what I pull from a regular 12/12 grow.
If you want ... try the graduated grow outlined above then do a 12/12 grow with no graduated lights on times next time. See which one you like the best.
One of the biggest mistakes I've seen on this forum is light timer fuck ups.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
I normally do 12/12 all the way. But don't want to slow the maturity down by limiting light. I'm at 4 weeks today.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
I just reset it yesterday. It's been at 12.5/11/5 for 4 weeks.
lakesidegrower
Well-Known Member
I’d try out something different at some point, but if you aren’t seeing differences going from 12/12 to 11/13 then chances are good anything further outside of 12/12 isn’t going to make a difference and the potential to cut into yields starts begging to be looked into.
I tried gradual flip this run - not with the intent of increasing production of yield, but to see how the plant responds to an otherwise stressful/resource demanding time at flip. So far they have prayed through the whole time change.
I tried gradual flip this run - not with the intent of increasing production of yield, but to see how the plant responds to an otherwise stressful/resource demanding time at flip. So far they have prayed through the whole time change.
Star Dog
Well-Known Member
Slowing down maturity is also my experience.
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
Slowing down maturity by reducing light intensity vs time?
Three Berries
Well-Known Member
Do you think increasing light intensity towards the end is asking for hermis?
lakesidegrower
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking that you’re better off tailoring towards natural light levels during the cycle - if anything I’d pull the light levels back before I tried increasing.
Basically you have resin production being tied in ways to stress in the plant; the plant produces flowers and resin in response to a natural trigger caused by changed in its environment (less duration/intensity of light levels, lower temp etc) so in my opinion you would want to exaggerate the natural processes that cause the plant to do what it does in flower, not give them the opposite.
