Damn, what happened to the laptop, won't turn on? 16ga is fine, the driver will only draw about 3A max. BTW, houses are wired with 14 or 12ga, at least in the US.Ah, thank you!
Yeah these look easy enough to work with, not unlike the Neutrik Speakon or Powercon connectors I've often wired. Is there a gauge for these that is recommended, something like a 16ga would be about what most houses are wired with though I've previously used 14 or 12 for super high wattage applications in music.
Looking to start compiling parts in the next couple weeks. Of course just when the buyin's getting fun I had a laptop brick then today the appliance guy took a look at our dishwasher and promptly started advising us as to the best crop of new dishwashers.Either way, there's always a way to make things happen.
Tire Kicking for an LED solution for my Tent
- Thread starter LeastExpectedGrower
- Start date
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the 2017 MBP gave up. None of the usual stuff that you have signs of...used it one morning, closed it and that night it was DOA. New ones are now 2500$ on the cheap end, so I just bought an Air with some upgrades, though it was 1200$ I hadn't intended on spending. I mean, the MBP didn't owe me anything at this point, given how much use I throw at 'em but still, usually I have a warning...the graphics card dying or something else glitching. For some reason I kill windows machines quicker though. I've never had one last more than 2 years before it was junk.
And you're correct, most Romex is 10,12,14. For some reason I was thinking about what most power cables and cords are. My last Powercon build was a 10 gauge cable to power a 3000w amp that was custom built for me. I used to spec a 20amp circuit for just my personal stage setup in our tech rider.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Plans coming together.
HLG is having a 'Croptober' event obviously starting in another 10ish days. Just converted a seldom used minor piece of music gear into cash (sitting in my Paypal) for 280$. Have a bit more expendable extra here and there and a few more unloved electronic noisemakers that are in demand, so I may be able to so some interesting things. At the very least I'd be able to swing a couple QB96's or depending, maybe a second or third 225 depending on how things fall.
HLG is having a 'Croptober' event obviously starting in another 10ish days. Just converted a seldom used minor piece of music gear into cash (sitting in my Paypal) for 280$. Have a bit more expendable extra here and there and a few more unloved electronic noisemakers that are in demand, so I may be able to so some interesting things. At the very least I'd be able to swing a couple QB96's or depending, maybe a second or third 225 depending on how things fall.
Moabfighter
Well-Known Member
Trying to come off any or keeping them for a rainy day? I have two. 4 would kick booty in a 4x4 one in each corner ish
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
They're still up cheap on the site... 69$ sale price and the code for RIU drops that by 10% further...I'm just waiting the few days to see what more they'll do or if there's any other good options.
Sorry about the messy reply. And it seems you're on track there now.
*You really have to check the datasheet for the driver(s) you're considering*. Trust me. Assuming all A types have a certain feature (like Io and Vo, or whatever, just an example) could likely lead to disappointment. I know from experience, with the same type of build you're looking at right now.
Some people make a frame/fixture. Some just hang each heatsink/board combo. I make fixtures. It's pretty easy with either angle iron or tslot extrusions.
Running the boards in parallel on a 320h-54 would allow you to easily add/remove boards as well. Eg: You wire two boards too it. If you wanna add a third, you simply add a third, in parallel. It just divides the amperage between the three then.
And that price on HLG for the qb96 are regular price. They're not gonna go above that $69.
18ga wire is all that's needed from the driver to the boards, and from board to board (for reasonable distances. you can check a voltage drop calculator site if you wanna double check.) NTE, or Saxxon brand is good/cheap on amazon.
Wago lever nuts are good, UL listed, and exceed any power ratings you'll need.
User Orgro (previous member) did several threads when these boards first came out, mostly at grasscity forums. He did par maps, and all sorts of stuff.
3/4" angle will likely require you to space the boards off the...... I'll just say 1/2" would probably be easier, due to how the boards fit the heatsinks.
The qb96 come with thermal pads. Take your time when installing them. They're floppy, sticky (not "adhesive") and kinda stretch or tacky. Use the protective film that comes on the to your advantage when installing them (orientation is specific).
Hope some of that brain spill helps.
Running two or three of them, in parallel, on an hlg-320h-54. (A, B, or AB type is up to you based on the "features" you want. Like, dim-to-off, or Voltage "control" versus Amperage "control", etc. You can get someone to help ya look at the data sheets for the different types though.)
This is why I don't like the A types in general (or anything without dimming leads).
*You really have to check the datasheet for the driver(s) you're considering*. Trust me. Assuming all A types have a certain feature (like Io and Vo, or whatever, just an example) could likely lead to disappointment. I know from experience, with the same type of build you're looking at right now.
Some people make a frame/fixture. Some just hang each heatsink/board combo. I make fixtures. It's pretty easy with either angle iron or tslot extrusions.
Running the boards in parallel on a 320h-54 would allow you to easily add/remove boards as well. Eg: You wire two boards too it. If you wanna add a third, you simply add a third, in parallel. It just divides the amperage between the three then.
Get it the fuck outta there and into your bank account before they decide to put a hold on it and lock you out because 'reasons'.
And that price on HLG for the qb96 are regular price. They're not gonna go above that $69.
18ga wire is all that's needed from the driver to the boards, and from board to board (for reasonable distances. you can check a voltage drop calculator site if you wanna double check.) NTE, or Saxxon brand is good/cheap on amazon.
Wago lever nuts are good, UL listed, and exceed any power ratings you'll need.
User Orgro (previous member) did several threads when these boards first came out, mostly at grasscity forums. He did par maps, and all sorts of stuff.
3/4" angle will likely require you to space the boards off the...... I'll just say 1/2" would probably be easier, due to how the boards fit the heatsinks.
The qb96 come with thermal pads. Take your time when installing them. They're floppy, sticky (not "adhesive") and kinda stretch or tacky. Use the protective film that comes on the to your advantage when installing them (orientation is specific).
Hope some of that brain spill helps.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Definitely helps. Thank you. The more information the better. Will definitely fine tooth comb the specs on drivers if that's the way I go... I'd probably still hang the boards individually, given the 225 will sit in between them. I'm going to see what the discount is on the site once we hit October, if good it'll be a 50/50 whether I buy two boards and do the job myself or if I decide to buy matching 225(s), which is quick and easy...and also matching. But you never know.
Not terribly concerned about voltage drop I'll be running short runs if I build. Each driver will have probably something like 7' of wiring or less, given the idea of having the driver outside of the tent. All in all, the whole setup is literally 7' away from the outlets and the same from our breaker box. Though I always over-spec and stuff that is UL cert. is definitely preferred.
Thanks again...
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Update: Where I ended up.
After all the back and forth, I ended up waiting a few days once I heard that HLG would be running a 'Croptober Sale'...and decided to buy 2x 225's. The idea of having three matching lights across the width of the tent appeals to me. So with my penny-jar open, I counted out fifty thousand eight hundred pennies for the folks at HLG and with that have an additional 450w of light for my tent...for a total of 675w.
After all the back and forth, I ended up waiting a few days once I heard that HLG would be running a 'Croptober Sale'...and decided to buy 2x 225's. The idea of having three matching lights across the width of the tent appeals to me. So with my penny-jar open, I counted out fifty thousand eight hundred pennies for the folks at HLG and with that have an additional 450w of light for my tent...for a total of 675w.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
This is where I ended up... I had enough spare change and the HLG October sale and all...that I ended up just buying 2x matching 225's.
Spending the past day or two just messing with the light levels. All three rigs set as high as they'll go and at full blast ends. up with a DLI that's in the mid to upper 50's and PPFD that sits around 900 or above. Right now I'm doing some autos, so they honestly don't need that kind of blasting, though once there's some photoperiod plants, it'll be just right.
I've been trying a few things, one of which was turning off the middle lamp and using just the two outside ones, which is a viable option, but I like dimming them down a little bit better. Keeps things a bit more even for the ankle biters. In terms of heat, with all three at full, temps maintain between 79-84 with my fan setup at about 7 out of 10. I can reduce heat by further upping the fan a touch and exhausting the heat a bit more quickly. I'm currently doing a 17/7 schedule with a DLI sitting in the mid 35-low 40 range and a ppfd at ~690.
Next up, the fans will get changed out for some pole mount units. The Honeywells are just a bit too strong and/or beam too much even when set low. A couple hurricanes will do the trick. Right now they're on opposing 1 hour on/off cycles with a 10 minute overlap (sometimes both on, sometimes both off during the overlap). The small clip fan is oscillating and runs a 3 hour on/off cycle.
Spending the past day or two just messing with the light levels. All three rigs set as high as they'll go and at full blast ends. up with a DLI that's in the mid to upper 50's and PPFD that sits around 900 or above. Right now I'm doing some autos, so they honestly don't need that kind of blasting, though once there's some photoperiod plants, it'll be just right.
I've been trying a few things, one of which was turning off the middle lamp and using just the two outside ones, which is a viable option, but I like dimming them down a little bit better. Keeps things a bit more even for the ankle biters. In terms of heat, with all three at full, temps maintain between 79-84 with my fan setup at about 7 out of 10. I can reduce heat by further upping the fan a touch and exhausting the heat a bit more quickly. I'm currently doing a 17/7 schedule with a DLI sitting in the mid 35-low 40 range and a ppfd at ~690.
Next up, the fans will get changed out for some pole mount units. The Honeywells are just a bit too strong and/or beam too much even when set low. A couple hurricanes will do the trick. Right now they're on opposing 1 hour on/off cycles with a 10 minute overlap (sometimes both on, sometimes both off during the overlap). The small clip fan is oscillating and runs a 3 hour on/off cycle.
Sounds good.
I duno how the 225 prebuilts are wired, but I assume they're individually dimmable? You could connect all three of their dimming leads together with one dimmer and treat them as one light, if you like. 84*F air temp is good. I wouldn't suggest going below 82*F.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Thanks! They have dimmable drivers (the little twisty screw is part of the driver). My daytime temps range a bit from 79-85. My lights out temp drops to about 72 or so, so that'll have to do.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
They are, but the pack a punch..don't have the initial spread, but my tent is only 33" deep, so they work well. They're the QB96's
Good for 225w at the wall. Seem to be doing the job for my first grow. While I've been somewhat abusive in my ignorance, the plants are still fighting though it. Can't wait until my next cycle.
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LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Also, my fans are now 'flown' one suspended on each side. Even at low they were too strong and when they were on the floor or on boxes, they were just too close to the plants. I flipped 'em and hung them (nice that they had pre-cast holes in the bottom of the stand for wall mounting). I also used some 2" gaffers tape across the faces of the fan to diffuse the air better, and they're hung high enough to be more gentle as well as not beam as much.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
I decided that for the extra dollars, it was a project I didn't need to undertake and/or that having it 'factory assembled' equaled a bit of peace of mind given they're running in my house most of the time and I'm not home. I also got them for a pretty good price.
I got out of the other side of the grow I posted above and now I'm on to another, and having three of these is great. Since only 2 of my 4 seeds germinated this round (not surprised, the other two were tiny and didn't look viable), I planted 2 more seeds about a week later. This means that I can adjust the lights for the older ones vs. the younger ones and keep them both happy in the same tent.
I ended up just north of 1g/w on the first grow based on having a single 225 running for most of the grow. I was pretty happy with that, given how much I abused the plants in my ignorance of how to do many things. This round already looks and feels better than the last to me...
...and now I'm working with about 48W per square foot.
I mean thats fine if you like the aesthetics of HLG225. You do you... Just know for future, your just plugging 2 wires in the same way any person at HLG does... Your getting 5 -7 years on the Driver Warranty no matter what. So your paying $200 extra for a warranty on a $69 board that isnt likely to fail and for someone to plug in 2 wires for you the same way you would do it yourself. And that sexy Aluminum Plate. ^_^
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Did you get a decent heat sink for yours? I did poke around at doing it as a project and sized up the sink, the drivers, etc. and just decided that not everything needed to be a project. I waited for an HLG sale which made things somewhat more reasonable.
yea its the same exact SSTX Heatsink on the HLG225, just without the extra Plate they mount the driver to... you can buy the board bare for $54 or get it with Heatsink and thermal pad for $69. If you need drivers, I get mine from TRC Electronics dot com. Ive dealt with them twice and they have been excellent. One guy even called me a day later to talk about drivers if I had any questions. If unsure about drivers and specs, like I was for a while moving from ballasts. Just find a video or picture of the same exact driver HLG uses for their retail systems. But one thing ive learned about drivers, if it can put out voltage (54v) to power the board you can set it at whatever power draw you want. They are way more flexible and "smarter" than ballasts. Eitherway, the HLG225 looks great, all excellent solid lights.