Desease or burn?

Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Have you got your leaves wet with nute soultion in the sun?

If so it's it's left salts behind when it's evaporated. Damaging leaves.
 
maxott

maxott

Active Member
Hmm, not sure. I never spray leafs with nutes. Its lower leaf and Maybe accidentally while watering roots with bottle. :-|

thanks
 
maxott

maxott

Active Member
I have another issue. Maybe you also know whats these?

i feed em with foxfarm grow big and big bloom only
 

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Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Normally things are PH related however I think your suffering from the start of CalMag deficiency problems looking at the random blotching. Secondly you have some weridly forming leaves which normally suggests calmag related issues.

Have you got any purpling stems. You do cut Calmag out after week 3/4 generally of flower as stretch has finished and the plant no longer requires it so judge where you are.

I believe to higher P levels also affect Calmag up take. It may be possible you have to higher P levels. Seeing as you're feeding it bloom nutes this could also be too higher concentration.

All this said it could just be bleaching, if it's rained and you've had some exceptional amounts of sun the droplets of water can act as magnifying glasses damaging leaves. Nothing you can do about this really, joys of outdoors.
 
maxott

maxott

Active Member
I still dont have that meter tool, ph meter also :neutral:
Just purchased and waiting to be delivered

i use tap water. As i,ve searched it should be ~7.5-8 @ our town.
And ppm 150-160

i will check as soon as i get the meter.

when i mix fox farm nutes in 7.5 ph water , it should lower to normal ph for veg yes? As i know those nutes bit acidic.
 
Scaccia450

Scaccia450

Well-Known Member
maxott said:
I still dont have that meter tool, ph meter also :neutral:
Just purchased and waiting to be delivered

i use tap water. As i,ve searched it should be ~7.5-8 @ our town.
And ppm 150-160

i will check as soon as i get the meter.

when i mix fox farm nutes in 7.5 ph water , it should lower to normal ph for veg yes? As i know those nutes bit acidic.
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Thats to high If I were you next water is to take a jug of water lit ut sit there for 24 hrs to 12 hrs than squeeze about 4 drops of lemon and use this water. Because 7.5 ph and 8 ph jd way to high but another problem is 150ppm and 160 is high.
 
maxott

maxott

Active Member
Scaccia450 said:
Thats to high If I were you next water is to take a jug of water lit ut sit there for 24 hrs to 12 hrs than squeeze about 4 drops of lemon and use this water. Because 7.5 ph and 8 ph jd way to high but another problem is 150ppm and 160 is high.
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i don't water plants directly from tap. i collect the water in 100 liter tank, it sits there minimum 24hrs.

use lemon to drop ph? and how much drops for 100 liter tank? :) or i need to add lemon in jug just before watering?

ppm high or low? as i know about 800-900 ppm is the best in veg state. and more during flowering
 
Rakin

Rakin

Well-Known Member
You going to need ph down with tap water and a way to measure ph and a tds meter to keep track ppm. I prefer liquid ph drops myself over finicky ph pens so when you buy your ph pen go ahead and by some drops and use with it to make sure your ph pen is staying calibrated.
 
Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Rakin said:
You going to need ph down with tap water and a way to measure ph and a tds meter to keep track ppm. I prefer liquid ph drops myself over finicky ph pens so when you buy your ph pen go ahead and by some drops and use with it to make sure your ph pen is staying calibrated.
Click to expand...
A note about pH pens is agree, unless you buy something of good quality. I use blue lab pH and TDS pens and keep them stored as per guidelines. I check these everytime before use as I'm very particular. To be fair 6 months old and calibrated twice since first use. Never needed to calibrate my TDS pen. I also love the ease of calibration and scale changing these pens offer. Simplistic and very easy to do, compared to chineese English style instructions and crazy flow charts the cheaper Amazon ones offer.

Liquid drops for soil also makes so much more sense I have to agree due to the way soil pH is measured. Even litmus paper. I wouldn't want to stick my very expensive meters in a shit load of dirty water haha!

And I agree two methods are better than one. Fail safes.

pH is problematic if you depend on just nutes alone to adjust your pH. Alot of people add dolomite lime in there mixes to buffer pH. I use AN full PH perfect line and shit you not considering they are so expensive and developed for the hydro world. My pH always, always lands from 7.5/8 to 6.5. Every god damn time. I don't like using too much pH down either as the acid attacks the calcium making it unable to be absorbed by the plant. We all love the calmag fight with coco!

By the sounds of what you've said your PPMs from your tap aren't the end of the world, it's mainly Calmag anyway, what you think that white stuff is in your old kettle? 800-900 PPM or 1.6-18 EC is about right depending on the size of your plants. Im betting it's a pH issue causing lock out.

The diagram below shows you nutrient availabllity at pH levels. So calcium for example is available at 6.5-7.5 but nitrogen is about 6-7.5. So you only have to be a few points off ideal and things stop being available. Because the scale is logarhymic each whole number difference is a factor of 10. So for example a fluid of pH 5 is 10 times more acidic than a fluid with a pH of 6. So 0.1/0.2 makes a huge difference.

Also a good tip you can use this to your advantage. So my pH range is 5.5-5.8 so ill feed my plants at different pH's every other watering to make sure availability is at its maximum.
 

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Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Also I forgot to mention is chelators (carriers). Nitrogen being one for calium. If your plant is hammering nitrogen the calicum could be left behind as nitrogen is the main chelators for calcium but that's a crazy interesting level of science when it sounds more pH related.
 
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Scaccia450

Scaccia450

Well-Known Member
Silentvirtue said:
A note about pH pens is agree, unless you buy something of good quality. I use blue lab pH and TDS pens and keep them stored as per guidelines. I check these everytime before use as I'm very particular. To be fair 6 months old and calibrated twice since first use. Never needed to calibrate my TDS pen. I also love the ease of calibration and scale changing these pens offer. Simplistic and very easy to do, compared to chineese English style instructions and crazy flow charts the cheaper Amazon ones offer.

Liquid drops for soil also makes so much more sense I have to agree due to the way soil pH is measured. Even litmus paper. I wouldn't want to stick my very expensive meters in a shit load of dirty water haha!

And I agree two methods are better than one. Fail safes.

pH is problematic if you depend on just nutes alone to adjust your pH. Alot of people add dolomite lime in there mixes to buffer pH. I use AN full PH perfect line and shit you not considering they are so expensive and developed for the hydro world. My pH always, always lands from 7.5/8 to 6.5. Every god damn time. I don't like using too much pH down either as the acid attacks the calcium making it unable to be absorbed by the plant. We all love the calmag fight with coco!

By the sounds of what you've said your PPMs from your tap aren't the end of the world, it's mainly Calmag anyway, what you think that white stuff is in your old kettle? 800-900 PPM or 1.6-18 EC is about right depending on the size of your plants. Im betting it's a pH issue causing lock out.

The diagram below shows you nutrient availabllity at pH levels. So calcium for example is available at 6.5-7.5 but nitrogen is about 6-7.5. So you only have to be a few points off ideal and things stop being available. Because the scale is logarhymic each whole number difference is a factor of 10. So for example a fluid of pH 5 is 10 times more acidic than a fluid with a pH of 6. So 0.1/0.2 makes a huge difference.

Also a good tip you can use this to your advantage. So my pH range is 5.5-5.8 so ill feed my plants at different pH's every other watering to make sure availability is at its maximum.
Click to expand...
Wow intreasting from looking at the chart siting at 6.8 you have every nutritent max peak and nothing low
 
Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Scaccia450 said:
Wow intreasting from looking at the chart siting at 6.8 you have every nutritent max peak and nothing low
Click to expand...
So you would think. However at 6.5 the trace elements (which even though they are trace are extremely important) add to this these minerals are in very small amounts within soils so MAXIMUM absorbtions is key. Iron for example at 6.8 is only marginally available.

For things like copper zinc and managneese these are better absorbed through a PH of around 6.5. with ample amount of nitrogen still available.
 
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