Simple Seedling Mix

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
This is the same as my seedling/clone soil with a couple exceptions.

I'd cut the cow manure and replace that portion with peat. I'd also add some ag lime

The lime is to make sure your ph is on point.

So it'd be more like;
40% peat
40% perlite
20% worm castings
 

OrganicGorilla

Well-Known Member
This is the same as my seedling/clone soil with a couple exceptions.

I'd cut the cow manure and replace that portion with peat. I'd also add some ag lime

The lime is to make sure your ph is on point.

So it'd be more like;
40% peat
40% perlite
20% worm castings
So Oyster Shell flower in the mix? That's what I have to take place of lime.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
This is the same as my seedling/clone soil with a couple exceptions.

I'd cut the cow manure and replace that portion with peat. I'd also add some ag lime

The lime is to make sure your ph is on point.

So it'd be more like;
40% peat
40% perlite
20% worm castings
Pretty much the same as mine along with the lime. I do add a very small amount of kelp meal for the minerals and trace. Like 1/4 cup/cf small amount. I mix it in with the VC before mixing it all up. Use no manures or the like at all. The bit of VC and kelp meal is more than enough till you upcan.

The 40% perlite is pretty vital also, don't skimp there.

I do moisten it well about a week before planting to get the 'crobes going and to make sure the peat is absorbing water. Not all of it, just what I'm going to be using and I'll do it in something with drainage holes, usually a 1 gallon or 2 gallon container left outside. I do the seeds in the large yogurt/cottage cheese/sour cream containers, the 32oz (?) size, with drainage holes. The extra soil mass seems to work better for me than party cups. I do seeds outside in partial sun and these let me go 3 or 4 days between watering. Very important in avoiding root/stem rot.

HTH
 

OrganicGorilla

Well-Known Member
Pretty much the same as mine along with the lime. I do add a very small amount of kelp meal for the minerals and trace. Like 1/4 cup/cf small amount. I mix it in with the VC before mixing it all up. Use no manures or the like at all. The bit of VC and kelp meal is more than enough till you upcan.

The 40% perlite is pretty vital also, don't skimp there.

I do moisten it well about a week before planting to get the 'crobes going and to make sure the peat is absorbing water. Not all of it, just what I'm going to be using and I'll do it in something with drainage holes, usually a 1 gallon or 2 gallon container left outside. I do the seeds in the large yogurt/cottage cheese/sour cream containers, the 32oz (?) size, with drainage holes. The extra soil mass seems to work better for me than party cups. I do seeds outside in partial sun and these let me go 3 or 4 days between watering. Very important in avoiding root/stem rot.

HTH
Why do you sign HTH like @MistaRasta?
What does that mean
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
@Richard Drysift mentioned the other day "For clones or seedlings with tender young roots use spent or recycled soil without adding amendments".
Something I was thinking of doing for a few seedlings next grow along side others that will be in ff light warrior. Anyone see a downside to using soil that you just harvested from?
 
oil dri is tits for seed starter rinse the dust off add to seed tray, make sure the bag says either diatomaceous earth or fullers earth 100% either works
 

OrganicGorilla

Well-Known Member
@Richard Drysift mentioned the other day "For clones or seedlings with tender young roots use spent or recycled soil without adding amendments".
Something I was thinking of doing for a few seedlings next grow along side others that will be in ff light warrior. Anyone see a downside to using soil that you just harvested from?
For seedling im sure that would be ok to start them out.
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
I will pass on that
Pretty sure the stuff he's talking about is Calcium bentonite( I personally wouldn't use it.)

If so this makes sense being a seedling does better the more available Calcium it has as it can pick up more nutrients from the get-go.

Try a test..

Try throwing a 1/2 cup of gypsum(Calcium Sulfate) in per Cubic foot as well as your ostyer shell flour for a portion of your seedling soil. Put it up against the soil that doesn't have gypsum and you'll see a huge difference. It doesn't take much to start a seed, but when you have the right stuff in right proportion you'll see a different plant and root system.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
@Richard Drysift mentioned the other day "For clones or seedlings with tender young roots use spent or recycled soil without adding amendments".
Something I was thinking of doing for a few seedlings next grow along side others that will be in ff light warrior. Anyone see a downside to using soil that you just harvested from?
Not a downside, but certainly a caution, since spent soil has been my go to for years. It involves neem cake.

There is a caution on the Neem Resources website warning about neem cake amounts and seeds, seedlings, and young plants. I take that warning seriously and avoid neem cake in those instances. NBD

What I DIDN'T consider was neem residue from heavy use in spent soils.

For the last several years neem cake has been my go to for everything. Adding to fresh mixes and top dressing to pretty much the exclusion of any other N sources. I didn't overapply it, but it was a steady diet.

It wasn't till losing my entire garlic crop this year till the light bulb came on and everything fell into place. With garlic, you amend the initial mix and do one top dressing in very early spring over a 8 month growing cycle. With only 2 additions of amendments over 3/4 of a year you really know just what's in there. No random top dressings you may have forgotten about.

This led back to the spent soil I had used for seed and clones and problems encountered and the Ah Ha moment. The spent soil came from pepper plants fed with mainly just neem/karanja and kelp meal top dressings unti the killing frost. Then the containers sat outside till the following (this past), spring. Still had live worms and smelled/felt beautiful. But problems with starting seeds and clones.

Made no sense till a discussion about garlic seeds and everything clicked. Garlic does not produce seeds per se. The cloves (seeds), are actually small plants much like onion sets. I never really considered them as seeds till that discussion caused all the connections to become clear.

Hell, it only took a bit over 3 years, but better late than never, right?
 

Jimdamick

Well-Known Member
I'm trying out a new mix for starting seedlings in solo cups.
40% Perlite, 20% EWC, 20% Composted Cow Manure, 20% Peat. No other amendments until they get into 1G pots. Anyone try this or something very similar?
I start my seedlings in a simple germinating mix in 2x2 peat cubes,, ready for transplant, with nothing else.
I found that with seeds sprouting in dense, hot soil, it will inhibit their sprouting
I would definitely leave the cow shit out of the equation until you repot, and why do you want to use 1 gal, pots?
They are way too small for a finished plant, go 3 gallon and you'll be fine.
Good luck
 
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OrganicGorilla

Well-Known Member
I start my seedlings in a simple germinating mix in 2x2 peat cubes,, ready for transplant, with nothing else.
I found that with seeds sprouting in dense, hot soil, it will inhibit their sprouting
I would definitely leave the cow shit out of the equation until you repot, and why do you want to use 1 gal, pots?
They are way too small for a finished plant, go 3 gallon and you'll be fine.
Good luck
I go from solo cup, to 1 gallon to 5 or 10 gallon.
 
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