Diy ghetto scrog screen

This screen or a different screen?


  • Total voters
    5

HotShot7414

Well-Known Member
As the title says diy ghetto scrog screen. My next grow i plan to scrog, but i wanted to find the cheapest and quickest way to make a screen. I build 1 from wire hangers and 2 pieces of wood. Should my cheap screen suffice or should i just buy better material? seems like this was a good idea, I'm sure someone has done it before.
 

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Flagg420

Well-Known Member
the lil spikes here n there may cause issues with larger stems, but thats about it, and even that, as long as its healthy, will prolly only result in a thick gnarled spot which will help hold more weight....

Keep up up to date on how it does work :)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I would have started the seedling in a smaller pot, (about 4" diameter) using the same holes on the side.
This provides a denser root system at the centre of the rootball and the air pruning will prevent spiralling roots until you pot up.
 

HotShot7414

Well-Known Member
I got 4 nice sized pots and 4 solo cups. Check out my journals for 12/12 solo cups.Not much yield but fun to see them finish in 18 oz cups.
 

Rolla J

Well-Known Member
I got 4 nice sized pots and 4 solo cups. Check out my journals for 12/12 solo cups.Not much yield but fun to see them finish in 18 oz cups.
I want to try that sometime. I got 50 seeds lol id do like 8 solos. But what about 1gals grows. Would it be better than solo cuz of the roots going rootbound. Have a link?
 

HotShot7414

Well-Known Member
I want to try that sometime. I got 50 seeds lol id do like 8 solos. But what about 1gals grows. Would it be better than solo cuz of the roots going rootbound. Have a link?
The pots a have are about 1 gal each. I'm doing a small closet grow but I might just put all 8 in my den. 12/12 with solo is not bad but I don't know about a traditional grow and veg time, they might end up being transplanted.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Some years back I wanted to try a DWC ScroG with the RubberMaid tubs I like to use for that and finally came up with this and it works great tho I'm going for bigger screens with future ones. Had some aluminum flat bars I cut in half to be support legs. Drilled holes in the bars at the height of the tub and in the corners of the tubs then used nails bent to hook through the holes in the tubs to keep the bars up with duct tape on the bottom corners to keep the legs from moving. The tub sits on a wheeled dollie so the whole thing is a unit and the screen hangs on bailing wire so it can be easily moved up as the plant keeps growing in height and pushes up the screen.

ScroGMar291005.jpg

A pic of one set up without the screen and using my DIY chiller to keep the nute temps at 65F.

DwcScroG01.jpg

I put a vertical screen up in the corner of the grow room to round out the corner. Used sheep fencing like with the above screen then used some heavier screen cut to hook into the vertical screen with light chains from the ceiling to hold up the front of it.

Screen.jpg

That horizontal screen is 5' wide so I rigged up a bracket to mount a 2nd 400W HPS light in that hood, piece of chain to tilt it back to aim all the light at the canopy and hung it from my light rail to move it back and forth over the plants.

Girlslr12111602.jpg

A heavy frame isn't really needed and can be harder to work with but if neatness is your goal them I'm the wrong guy to talk to. :)
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
So i decided to scrap the hanger screen. Im using some extra snow fencing i had around but are the holes too small?
They are a bit small and like chicken wire not the best thing to use. With that wide open fencing I'm using I just tie in a piece of wire to bridge the gap when I want to aim a grow tip across then take it out later once the tip has reached the other side. I also tie the branches to the screen with short pieces of twist tie rather than weave the branches in and out of the screen. Comes in handy if you decide you want to re-position a branch.
 

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
Some years back I wanted to try a DWC ScroG with the RubberMaid tubs I like to use for that and finally came up with this and it works great tho I'm going for bigger screens with future ones. Had some aluminum flat bars I cut in half to be support legs. Drilled holes in the bars at the height of the tub and in the corners of the tubs then used nails bent to hook through the holes in the tubs to keep the bars up with duct tape on the bottom corners to keep the legs from moving. The tub sits on a wheeled dollie so the whole thing is a unit and the screen hangs on bailing wire so it can be easily moved up as the plant keeps growing in height and pushes up the screen.

View attachment 3983035

A pic of one set up without the screen and using my DIY chiller to keep the nute temps at 65F.

View attachment 3983051

I put a vertical screen up in the corner of the grow room to round out the corner. Used sheep fencing like with the above screen then used some heavier screen cut to hook into the vertical screen with light chains from the ceiling to hold up the front of it.

View attachment 3983065

That horizontal screen is 5' wide so I rigged up a bracket to mount a 2nd 400W HPS light in that hood, piece of chain to tilt it back to aim all the light at the canopy and hung it from my light rail to move it back and forth over the plants.

View attachment 3983067

A heavy frame isn't really needed and can be harder to work with but if neatness is your goal them I'm the wrong guy to talk to. :)
Dude that chiller is awesome. Genius man. Do you have the reefer unit hooked to a temp controller? Seems like it would be way too cold just on all the time.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Dude that chiller is awesome. Genius man. Do you have the reefer unit hooked to a temp controller? Seems like it would be way too cold just on all the time.
I have the cooler set on a timer and it took me a couple days of playing around to get it set so I could keep the nutes at 65F. Had to turn down the control on the back of the cooler and it is only on for 15min every hour so I'm pretty sure it could keep a much bigger system chilled. I got the cooler for nothing from an old boss and had a big roll of 3/8" tubing so all it cost me was $14 for a little fountain pump that sits in the bottom of the tub and circulates nutes up to the cooling tank thru coils of the tubing and back to the tub. $3 for a timer from the bargain store that does 15min intervals too.

At first I had the timer on the little pump but the nutes froze in the bottom of the cooling tank when they stopped circulating so it runs 24/7and the timer's on the cooler instead. I used white wall insulation around the tank and ended up putting some around the tub too using bailing wire to hold it on, Ghetto as hell but works.

InsulatedTub01.jpg


Chill02.jpg

The tank is full of anti-freeze as water just freezes or evaporates too fast. I could have just ran the tubing in from the back rather than drill holes in the front for them then when not in use could sit out in the open without anyone asking questions.

Chill05.jpg

Some window screen hot-glued over the larger holes on the fountain pump to keep roots out worked very well.

Chiller2.jpg

Kind of fun coming up with a way to work around a problem when the cupboards as well as the bank account are bare. :)
 
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