HLG-240H-42B has CC range 21-42V so you can run 36V COBs in parallel with it. Whether it's wise I don't know.Hi Rahz,
I think you're going to have to throw those on e-bay ..
Not sure how you are getting those numbers @BigYellowCob , looks to me like their isn't a way to run 36V or 72V with these.
I could be wrong, but it says v range is 39-45V, nothing nice to work with in there imho.
i like how quick people will jump to the idea of parallel wiring how many people actually have a piece of equipment that can check voltage? Do a lot of you guys just throw that shit together and hope it works?I bought it for that purpose and then read it's not recommended. I'm not sure how extreme the voltage disparity might be. Reading Bridgelux's application note it seems their primary concern is uneven lighting so it might be possible to run them safely.
Not something I'm interested in so maybe ebay it is. I guess I'm just curious what it's intended application might be.
You can pick up a basic multimeter at the hardware store for less than $20. Its not as complicated as you seem to think to messure this stuff.i like how quick people will jump to the idea of parallel wiring how many people actually have a piece of equipment that can check voltage? Do a lot of you guys just throw that shit together and hope it works?
it's not about it being hard i have a fluke myself and i check all my stuff after i wire I'm just wondering what everyone else is doing. It seems dangerous and ignorant and some of you guys encourage these hazardous practices.slow your roll and remember your playing with shit that can kill youYou can pick up a basic multimeter at the hardware store for less than $20. Its not as complicated as you seem to think to messure this stuff.
Wiring them in parallel also carries a small risk of frying the whole string. Though admittedly this would be rather small considering I think sds determined that the upper current limit of the vero 29 was around 8 amps? I 'll have to see if I can find that thread.
The other option is that you could get some dc-dc buck drivers. Like the meanwell ldd series
Or ebay.
Wiring parallel strings is arguably safer than high voltage strings in series. Bridgelux only notes that variances in the voltage between emitters will result in slightly different outputs thus uneven lighting. Not because it will somehow damage the emitter or poses some risk to the user.it's not about it being hard i have a fluke myself and i check all my stuff after i wire I'm just wondering what everyone else is doing. It seems dangerous and ignorant and some of you guys encourage these hazardous practices.slow your roll and remember your playing with shit that can kill you
Thank you! All VERY good points!Wiring parallel strings is arguably safer than high voltage strings in series. Bridgelux only notes that variances in the voltage between emitters will result in slightly different outputs thus uneven lighting. Not because it will somehow damage the emitter or poses some risk to the user.
Uneven lighting is bad for retail stores who deal with fickle human desires. Plants don't give a Damn
i do remember Mr flux was on top of his game and he knew what he was doing high voltage or low it can still kill you and and any kind of wiring is dangerous because you can hurt yourself I'd prefer to see people understand wtf they are doing instead of blindly following and saying "sure it could work" again a lot of you obviously take it for granted can you show me a little bit of responsibilityWiring parallel strings is arguably safer than high voltage strings in series. Bridgelux only notes that variances in the voltage between emitters will result in slightly different outputs thus uneven lighting. Not because it will somehow damage the emitter or poses some risk to the user.
I don't know how many remember mr flux vero 10 build. He wired 5 vero 10's in series then took 5 of those strings and wired them in parallel. So 25 emitters off a single driver. Very nice build too.
Uneven lighting is bad for retail stores who deal with fickle human desires. Plants don't give a Damn
So then enlighten us. What's dangerous about wiring strings in parallel? What testing procedures need to be followed? What concerns should the builder address with such a circuit?i do remember Mr flux was on top of his game and he knew what he was doing high voltage or low it can still kill you and and any kind of wiring is dangerous because you can hurt yourself I'd prefer to see people understand wtf they are doing instead of blindly following and saying "sure it could work" again a lot of you obviously take it for granted can you show me a little bit of responsibility
o and Mr flux had tested all his emitters voltage properly and he did it responsibly i don't understand why you did this he did what everyone should do but nobody thinks it's necessary i guess
Didn't actually build a fixture will parallel cobs, but thats only for the reason I just order what I need and don't have any spare parts. I always check with a multimeter afterwards and it didn't fail my previous educated guesses yet (besides the fact that my 185h-C1050 turned out to have less than 90% efficiency).i like how quick people will jump to the idea of parallel wiring how many people actually have a piece of equipment that can check voltage? Do a lot of you guys just throw that shit together and hope it works?
This is getting way off topic, but what sort of emitter did you have on the driver when you conducted that test? Do you have the A version or B version?Didn't actually build a fixture will parallel cobs, but thats only for the reason I just order what I need and don't have any spare parts. I always check with a multimeter afterwards and it didn't fail my previous educated guesses yet (besides the fact that my 185h-C1050 turned out to have less than 90% efficiency).
I wonder how your test would have worked out on 240v rather than 120v. The HLG series get's a bit of a efficiency boost on 240v. Again only a few points, but still.That was with 5 V29 (2x 1.2, 3x 2.0). I don't remember the exact values, but it was 230 Watt on the multimeter. Even after power factor correction (*0,95) that is too high for the predicted ~191 Watt of cob dissipation. I have to admit that my cheap energymeter showed 215 W actual draw which has the (previously measured) 3,4 Watt for 5x Actic11 included. That would make up for 90,3% efficiency. It still bothered me, somehow, spending huge amounts of money on those extra percentage points just realising there is room for variation even in quality parts. But that feeling then left soon seeing the actual results